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Does oil injection ever fail on the GTX’s?

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Caljpatt

Caljpatt

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My oil injection has failed, but not in the way that you think, it will not stop pumping oil into the cylinders. The result is a lot of oil everywhere as I try spinning it over with the plugs out to clean it out a bit. Just posting this while I take a break for the starter, so I don’t blow it up. Just wondering, does the oil injection ever just release insane amounts of oil into the engine, and what could be a fix for that?
The picture shows about 5 seconds of starter turning over without the towel on it just so you can see how it is. Is this too much oil to run as it seems a lot lower than it was?
Thanks for any tips everyone!A76E07B9-3BDD-4099-8A03-B47AD456B458.jpeg
 
I'm new here so don't take this as fact but something to look into. Hopefully others will chime in to confirm or tell me to shut up.....ha, ha.

Anyway, while researching seadoos before buying I found some of the crank seals and/or rotary valve seals fail and cause oil problems similar to what you have described. Sounded like the rotary seal isn't that hard but the crank seal is a bit harder and time consuming.
 
Midwest Dave said:
I'm new here so don't take this as fact but something to look into. Hopefully others will chime in to confirm or tell me to shut up.....ha, ha.

Anyway, while researching seadoos before buying I found some of the crank seals and/or rotary valve seals fail and cause oil problems similar to what you have described. Sounded like the rotary seal isn't that hard but the crank seal is a bit harder and time consuming.
Click to expand...
Rotary seal wouldn’t be the worst, I would hope for that, I was hoping for a “check valve” or something in the oil pump. Worst case scenario it needs a crank seal which I don’t have a clue what to do for that. I can do a top end but never have touched a bottom end yet.
 
Caljpatt said:
My oil injection has failed, but not in the way that you think, it will not stop pumping oil into the cylinders. The result is a lot of oil everywhere as I try spinning it over with the plugs out to clean it out a bit. Just posting this while I take a break for the starter, so I don’t blow it up. Just wondering, does the oil injection ever just release insane amounts of oil into the engine, and what could be a fix for that?
The picture shows about 5 seconds of starter turning over without the towel on it just so you can see how it is. Is this too much oil to run as it seems a lot lower than it was?
Thanks for any tips everyone!View attachment 42473
Click to expand...

Take the pump off and spin it with a drill, refer to the SM, but I wouldn't think the volume has increased.
 
Seems like it was only one cylinder if it's the rotary valve but oil in both is crank seal. Might have that mixed up though. I lurked a long time, these guys here know their stuff someone will chime in.

SM = Service Manual, or shop manual. Either way either get one on your computer or buy a paper copy. Well worth the investment. I prefer the paper copy so I can have it right there while I'm leaning over a motor.
 
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Midwest Dave said:
Seems like it was only one cylinder if it's the rotary valve but oil in both is crank seal. Might have that mixed up though. I lurked a long time, these guys here know their stuff someone will chime in.

SM = Service Manual
Click to expand...
I figured SM was service Manual just didn’t wanna screw anything up. I’m trying to be careful with everything on these. It’s not cheap, even though I paid 100$ each for 2 seadoo GTX and a tigershark 770, all 1997’s. I am really hoping that a crank seal is not needed but wouldn’t be surprised. Gonna check the pumps specs first.
 
So in all my years I've never seen a rotary valve shaft seal fail. Not to say it can't, but there is literally no load on the seal since the bearing is right behind it. I'm going to wager it's the inner crank seal. It can be either side or both, they don't make much of an interference fit on the crank even when new. Still, not the end of the world. I'd just purge it out. Go ride all day and wait a few days and see what happens. A little warmth as it might whip back into sealing shape so to speak. This is all assuming your ski is ready to ride. If you really wanted to you could pressure test the crank seals. The procedure is in the manual. But 3 to 4psi in the rotary shaft cavity and it should hold for 10 minute. If it doesn't you either have a crank seal(s) that are bad or a leak in your test equipment. Want to get more precise, you'll need a block off kit. I just happen to make/sell those.
 
racerxxx said:
So in all my years I've never seen a rotary valve shaft seal fail. Not to say it can't, but there is literally no load on the seal since the bearing is right behind it. I'm going to wager it's the inner crank seal. It can be either side or both, they don't make much of an interference fit on the crank even when new. Still, not the end of the world. I'd just purge it out. Go ride all day and wait a few days and see what happens. A little warmth as it might whip back into sealing shape so to speak. This is all assuming your ski is ready to ride. If you really wanted to you could pressure test the crank seals. The procedure is in the manual. But 3 to 4psi in the rotary shaft cavity and it should hold for 10 minute. If it doesn't you either have a crank seal(s) that are bad or a leak in your test equipment. Want to get more precise, you'll need a block off kit. I just happen to make/sell those.
Click to expand...
Can’t ride it. Hydro locks when the plugs are in. Cleaning out the oil that’s in it on my day off (Thursday) by blocking the oil lines , then putting gas in the plug holes and we shall see if it runs, then we can go from there.
I’ll keep everyone posted. Might try something tmrw as well. I was optimistic at first but there is obviously a reason when you get something for 100$, that has a motor and is not a weed eater.
 
So I need to run a leak test to see? I read something about that in my manual but is there like a kit I have to buy? That’s just what I remember
 
Id keep cranking on it with the plugs out and make sure you’ve got all of the oil out... If it’s locking up that fast, the crank seals are either completely shot, or you’re not getting all of the oil out of the bottom end before you try to start it. It’s hard to get it completely cleared, and I’d expect it to kill a battery charge or two cranking on it for a few seconds at a time to get it clear.
 
JeremyD615 said:
Id keep cranking on it with the plugs out and make sure you’ve got all of the oil out... If it’s locking up that fast, the crank seals are either completely shot, or you’re not getting all of the oil out of the bottom end before you try to start it. It’s hard to get it completely cleared, and I’d expect it to kill a battery charge or two cranking on it for a few seconds at a time to get it clear.
Click to expand...
Already killed one battery, I’ve been trying that. Might take the head off so I can get more out, the plug holes just aren’t big enough
 
Just know that it’s very likely that you’re going to have to rebuild. Occasionally the seals will swell up enough to get you through a season, but either way, you’ll be replacing that crank sometime sooner rather than later. Just keep that in mind before you spend too much time and energy digging into the motor trying to get something started that’s on its last leg anyway... If the funds are there, you might be better served just rebuilding it now rather than wasting half the season trying to get it going.
 
JeremyD615 said:
Just know that it’s very likely that you’re going to have to rebuild. Occasionally the seals will swell up enough to get you through a season, but either way, you’ll be replacing that crank sometime sooner rather than later. Just keep that in mind before you spend too much time and energy digging into the motor trying to get something started that’s on its last leg anyway... If the funds are there, you might be better served just rebuilding it now rather than wasting half the season trying to get it going.
Click to expand...
What are you thinking it’s gonna cost, funds aren’t coming from me, parents said they’ll pay if I do all the work. Obviously not infinite funds but not super pressed.
 
It depends on how far you want to go. I’d probably just swap the motor out with a rebuild myself... A new crank runs in the $350-400 range, and you can buy a complete rebuilt motor for about twice that, with a fresh top end and a warranty...
 
JeremyD615 said:
It depends on how far you want to go. I’d probably just swap the motor out with a rebuild myself... A new crank runs in the $350-400 range, and you can buy a complete rebuilt motor for about twice that, with a fresh top end and a warranty...
Click to expand...
Do you think it is worth motor swapping the GTX’s since I only paid 100$ each? How much are they worth when I do that up here in Canada?
 
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