Does 96 speedster have 2 oil injection pumps? How to replace?

[uraceulose]

Okay so I had yesterday off and was able to tear into it. I accidentally pulled the rotary valve cover off with the intake manifold attached...

Can I just bolt it back on after a good clean and put some spray silicone on the o-ring?


Also I wasn’t able to figure out how to get the throttle linkage off so I unbolted the carbs and just let them hang securely from a bungee cord. Is there a trick to removing the cable ends?

 

[RogerS]

Yes! Cables are little trick to be removed... and worst trick to put back on!
Very hard to do with the engine in place, I decided to buy a hoist lift ... and did help a lot making much easier to work on it...

 

[uraceulose]

You’re telling me that you had to pull the engines to get the throttle cables off?!

Thank you for at least making me feel a little better about taking 20-30 minutes trying to figure it out.

I’m going to just replace every fuel and oil line and hose clamp, change fuel sending unit, clean up engine compartment, change all filters or clean, replace carbon seals on driveshafts, change pump oils and get oil injection system working.
Oh and hopefully the bilge pump.

Then this winter I’ll pull the seat bottoms out and reupholster, do a little more modern paint style and maybe replace throttle cables if u can’t get the tension correct. My boat came with a trolling motor mount and extra deep cell battery so I’ll probably throw a small trolling motor on for a backup as well.

Thank you guys again so much for all the help

Donnie

 

[uraceulose]

Also, the old pump that wasn’t being used turns smoothly...I’m not going to chance it and will replace with the other I have.

But I’m wondering if I should still replace all of the 8 mm and 12 mm oil lines from the tank to the rotary valve reservoir and the one that seems to run behind the exhaust manifold as well as the lines running to the oil pump inlets?

Also, should I try replacing the 3/32 Tygon lines on the other side engine and see if the oil pump works before pulling it off and replacing?

Like I said the gear rotation and pump arm action/spring tension seem to be very close to the new pump so i don’t know how safe I should be with this.

Thanks again

 

[uraceulose]

There is a guy names Bill on a PWC forum that seems to be a pretty respected member...he mentioned in a past thread where he has NEVER seen an 8 mm or 12 mm oil line crack or break due to old age or being too brittle. I'm trying to avoid changing all of those big oil lines unless you guys think it is necessary.
I could also run a tank or 2 of pre mix along with the oil tank in the beginning to be safe in case a leak springs somewhere and I don't catch it right away.

 

[uraceulose]

I've found chemical grade vinyl hose at home depot/ace hardware so the lines won't be an issue now.

 

[racerxxx]

Don't use vinyl of any type for oil. It will turn hard. Home depot sells orange 3/32 fuel line, use that for the oil injection lines, it's in that plumbing section by the brass fittings. Don't bother replacing the original big lines for the oil. I've never seen one fail due to age.

 

[uraceulose]

Thanks so much brother! I really didn't want to pull the exhaust now too...

I'll leave all the oil lines other than the small 3/32nds and hopefully nothing blows now that I have it somewhat clean.

 

[uraceulose]

So I got one oil pump pulled off and when I went to cut the end of the big oil line running into the rotary valve resorvoir to use a fresh end of hose...oil started gushing out all over the place from hose and engine.
The pump gear seemed to have lubrication when I pulled the pump off but I went ahead and threw the other one that I had anyway. There was a tiny bit of oil at the bottom of the tank but didn’t seem to be any oil pooled in the lines running to the oil pumps.

Would you guys leave the other side alone and try running it on the injection with new small 3/32nds lines or replace other side pump. I finally figured out how to remove carb linkage and it wasn’t bad at all prolly had too many beers last week when I tried.

 

[Dr Honda]

Suggesting to pull the engine to get to the carb is just silly. TO lift the engine... you have to pull the driveshafts, (and pumps) and need to verify the alignment again when putting it back down. That's a day project by itself.

Yes... the RV section is full of oil, and will make a mess.

I would do both sides since you are there.

 

[uraceulose]

Thank you sir. I’m heading up to the Yamaha store today to see if they have the carb gaskets and diaphrams or I’ll have to order some up.

Thanks again for all the help.
On the stinking carbon ring, I’m hoping I can just buy the tool..eventually I think we could get it but the tool would save time especially seeing how some guys replace these every 2-3 years as a maintenance item?

 

[uraceulose]

When we get done with this in a couple months I’ll be sure and show you some pictures, it’s coming together pretty nicely.
We got dark gray hydro turf kit, stripped all of the oem graphics, gloss black paint on the above waterline section of the hull under the rub rail, getting a new black rub rail and bumper (samples are on the way in mail). Going to do some yellow/black/gray graphics of some sort from a newer year model seadoo and some carbon fiber bits and pieces on the dash and interior.
Hoping that it turns out nice