CLR, Man I love this stuff!

[68ragtop]

I know this is not a big secret but for those that don't know, Its amazing how well CLR dissolves the scum & deposits our boats end up with. I first used it when I bought a ski that was left tied to a dock every year & looked really rough. With a lot of brush scrubbing & CLR, I got it all off. I have been a fan every since. On my current RXPX project, it also spent a lot of time in a freshwater lake & was never cleaned since new. (5 years old) Its cleaning up incredibly well. I dropped a bunch of trashed looking fasteners into a pan for about 3 hours, & when I took them out they were like brand new. No labor involved. Keep in mind, this is not dirt. It's the tough stuff that steel wool, or sos pads will not remove.

in the second picture, you can see the LCR react with the deposits right away. I have not found it to be destructive to decals on the hull either.

Just wanted to share,

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Good deal. When I part out skis I'll do this. I salvage all the stainless.

 

[USAF_Pride]

Combine it with an ultrasonic cleaner and it probably will work faster.

 

[LouDoo]

Thanks for posting, maybe I've been living in a cave, but I've never used CLR on my SeaDoo or boat, but I certainly will in the future.

Lou

 

[68ragtop]

When I bought my GSX, it came from a guy who kept it at his cottage all summer, every summer. He Tied it to a dock, never came out of the water. It had a film on it, that was so tough I couldn't hardly buff it off. The white seadoo letters where yellow. Then I used the CLR, & it started to work right away. Spray it on, let it sit for 10 minutes, spray it again, 10 more minutes. Then I would spray it a third time & start lightly scrubbing with a nylon bristle brush & kept spraying to keep it wet. I went through two bottles on the whole boat, but it was pretty nasty. This ski was not as bad, but still had enough. This is the first time I soaked parts in it. Took everything off but the thread locker. Lime away is a similar product, but does not work as well in my opinion. It's a little caustic, but not too bad.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

interesting.... I always used a wire wheel on the grinder, cleans up each bolt in about 15 seconds, but this isn't a bad idea

 

[Mekanix]

WARNING !!

I've done the same thing, It works great for stainless but with regular steel you need to treat it afterwards. Anything ferrous will start to rust very soon and be worse than when you started But I have to say it does a nice job!

That, Spray nine and magic eraser are my key weapons of choice

 

[Jetskigoodies]

Nice tip! I have a bucket of hardware that could use that trick, alot less labor intensive than wire wheeling each bolt. That is what we currently do. I will give this a try for sure.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I don't wire brush bolts, it removes the plating. Wire brushing stainless bolts will damage the threads so they're prone to seizing.

I just wash bolts in the parts washer, or if you really need them super clean throw them in an ultrasonic cleaner. Haven't tried CLR for cleaning bolts but have removed some nasty stains from gel coat with it.

 

[Mekanix]

It does dissolve any plating or protection on the bolts and it will EAT aluminum if left in for a bit.

Leave a regular steel bolt in there too long and it will turn dull grey. Not sure what will happen to stainless. You can see the bolts bubbling and after a while they will stop bubbling. That's when they are done and clean.
Although you can get the de-rusting stuff that will do the same and not really damage the bolt. Only problem is that it takes a day or so where as the CLR is almost done in less than an hour.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

For that horrible lake scum I use Toilet bowl cleaner...the gel stuff. scrub it in, let it sit, scrub one more time and wash it all off.

 

[Mike99]

So what gets the pesky Loctite off easy? I don't have a wire wheel, and use a brass hand brush usually, but some of the stuff won't come off. Ideas?

 

[Jetskigoodies]

Heat will losen it. Use a heat gun, lighter or torch. Clamp the head in a vise go over the locktite with the heat and then hit it with your brass brush. Should work like a charm.

 

[Jetskigoodies]

You can also try aircraft paint remover. Aircraft is the brand name.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yes, paint stripper will dissolve the loctite, acetone works pretty well also.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Honestly though, I don't bother with removing the locktite.

 

[Jetskigoodies]

We only remove it off of all case case and jug bolts. We want them as clean as possible so when we torque them down we know we are getting the correct torque. As long as it isnt huge globs left you should be fine

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[OneT]

Has anyone tried using CLR to clean a gas control selector/ fuel valve?