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Checking counterbalance oil in 951 DI

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I thought that too [MENTION=53237]mikidymac[/MENTION]. I had the nipple in, and tight, and it did drip, when hung. I know with the exhaust pulled, it would not be hard to do on the 03 and 02 gtx, but they were designed for a 4 stroke, so I have lots of room LOL.

Both engines I got had very little oil in them. The first had the gears torn up, and was rebuilt before, so it was possible that they did not refill the cavity.

The other engine was an 02 DI that lost its bearings and crank.

Thats what I think kills half of the DI's. No fuel through the case, just oil, air, & tons of moisture. Seems the bearing rust easier in DI's & eventually come apart. Especailly if they sit for lengths of time. I think removing the seat, letting them cool off & re-starting them for 20 seconds could make a big difference in bearing life. Fogging them after use, No doubt would.

What I find interesting with the DI's is after you let them cool off to room temperature you can pull the spark plugs & they will usually have a drop of condensation hanging off the electrode, I have never seen that on any other engine. could be the position of the plug & the angle of the cylinder. Not sure. They will also get some light rust on the cylinder walls if a cylinder is at BDC when it stops.
 
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I haven't seen any water on the plugs of my carbed 951 but the two times I've had the carbs off there was a drop or two inside the crankcase side of fuel pump diaphragm.
 
I think its a DI thing. I have never had it on my other carb'd skis. Never had a 951 carb'd, but always wanted one. Almost bought an RX with the white motor but passed on it. 97, or 98? I think it was.

Anyone that has a DI & has it up to full operating temp, pull the plugs after half a day, or over night.
first time I saw it I thought I had a water jacket leak. They all do it for some reason.
 
I think its a DI thing. I have never had it on my other carb'd skis. Never had a 951 carb'd, but always wanted one. Almost bought an RX with the white motor but passed on it. 97, or 98? I think it was.

Anyone that has a DI & has it up to full operating temp, pull the plugs after half a day, or over night.
first time I saw it I thought I had a water jacket leak. They all do it for some reason.

RX's were not made in 97'-98' especially with the white 951. GSX maybe?

I think you are onto something with the oil only on the DI. With most all other 2 strokes the oil and fuel enters the crankcase and the fuel is the solvent and carrier for the oil helping it spread to the bearings and metal parts. I am sure not having the fuel in the crankcase contributes to the moisture and failures.
 
I don't think you would want a white 951, I'd probably pass on that just for the improvements add to that the carbs are oddball?

Another source of water is the exhaust, if it's not blown out after running there will be more moisture. I'm not sure, given the amount of water that must be in the exhaust on these things, why we don't notice wet plugs and water droplets more often. Once stopped, both exhaust ports will be wide open.
 
No doubt on all points above. On the white 951, yes it was a GSX. it was a few years back so I fumbled on that answer. Pretty sure now it was a late 97. I heard they were an early released prototype? supposed to be really quick though, or was that just a rumor?

I have often wondered about the water in the exhaust causing the drip too. When I first got into the Seadoo's the whole water thing freaked me out. I am a long time snowmobile guy & how close these engines are to the enemy is amazing when you think about it. Crank failures in snowmobiles are really rare unless its bad design, or its got a big bore kit over top a small bottom end. Otherwise, I had rebuilt engine after engine with crank bearings that where clean as a whistle. The worse bearings where always the piston pin bearings from the heat. To think an engine could sit with water not far from the exhaust ports & the engine drawing in hot humid air from the hull was disturbing to me. I have accepted it now, but its no doubt the innovator of disaster for the engines. :)

If a guy could hook up a permanent fogging spray system where all you had to do was hold a button in for 5-10 seconds before you shut it down, imagine how much healthier the engines would be. :) The thought crossed my mind seeing the DI has a built in port for fogging & it works well.
 
I've been meaning to add one of those plunger type fuel primer pumps to inject oil as a means to fog, was gonna tee it into the accelerator pump injector nozzle line.

I'm pretty sure the early 951's were higher compression. The water flowed in reverse so plumbing is a little different and they ran a single ignition coil. Being early, I wouldn't call them better, prototype is probably a good description.

Maybe all the later parts would bolt on just fine but even the magneto flywheel would be different, MPEM not same, a good bit of the wiring too.

So yeah, unless I already had a pile of junked 951 skis for updateed parts or something I'd have to pass on the 1st year stuff, it's not like they're a 1932 depression era Cadillac or something.
 
Guys saw this this morning. I have a motor apart right now, so I did some checking. The nipple in question will not accept oil. (See pic) The only way to add oil is to unscrew the nipple and add the required amount. With the size of that hole it would take forever and two days to get 40ml in there.

I really think when Sea Doo created the DI manual they copy pasted from the carbed manual with some slight alterations. I believe this is one of those places.

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Edit: Just went back and re read. This was covered earlier so please disregard.
 
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VERY POOR DESIGN! I unbolted the ignition box and moved it, and removed the rear exhaust and used a mirror to see what i was doing. I use a black zip tie to gauge the level. the case on the carb (I owned one for years) and Di are (balance shaft oil issue) the same. do not over fill and check it often. low balance shaft oil is a main contributor to catastrophic engine failure.
to get oil into the cavity, i took a piece of metal and zip tied a oil hose to it. it extends above the cylinder head. I use a syringe (you can get at walgreens for free/cheap). i keep adding until it is to the bottom of the threads. it is time consuming and a pain. if you want photos of my filling tool, let me know. good luck!
 
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