Challenger 787 fisrt test!

[fredm21]

I took this video to make sure my impeller is bad? The gap between the impeller and wear ring is always at the same position, there is a really small gap almost all around but there is only 4-5 inches where the gap is big. Tommorow i will bring the pump back to the boat seller where i bought it from. I would like to be sure of what has to be done to it to get it new ( under warranty I hope) I guess it needs new bearings, seals and bumper. But is it possible that the shaft is bent and not the impeller? Thank you http://youtu.be/A6RpAheTB1Q

 

[fredm21]

Anyone knows what Parts I should expect to change?

 

[racerxxx]

If the oil wasn't milky then the seals should be good, but once the impeller is off you'll need to check it visually. The end play is normal. So I'll say wear ring and impeller. I think you're going to fighting an up hill battle Ion them warranting that impeller and wear ring. If they do that's great, but I wouldn't get my hopes up.

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[fredm21]

This is how the cone was -_- and filled with water!

 

[fredm21]

As you can see the white plastic wear thing inside the cone is worn out on one side, and not worn centered at all?

 

[racerxxx]

Add bearings and seals to that.

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[fredm21]

Thank you racerxxx, tommorow i am going to the garage, i will keep you updated on the warranty and i will post pictures of the process! Should i change the plastic wear washer inside the cone?

 

[racerxxx]

Look at the impeller shaft where the seal rides too. I wouldn't worry too much about the white bumper.

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[fredm21]

Someone knows what this alluminium piece is made for?

 

[racerxxx]

Part of the gate latch

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[Bonmotwang]

Part of the gate latch

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It gives you the hysteresis to make sure when you push the shift to forward position, the reverse cup will be latched in upper position, even if the shift handle got bounced back a little.
When it is latched in position, you need to pull almost half way towards N to unlatch it.

 

[fredm21]

Great!! I am learning everyday! Thank you

 

[racerxxx]

It gives you the hysteresis to make sure when you push the shift to forward position, the reverse cup will be latched in upper position, even if the shift handle got bounced back a little.
When it is latched in position, you need to pull almost half way towards N to unlatch it.

Yep, the gate latch.

 

[vission]

I have a pretty good idea as to what happened...

If you look at the photo your rubber seal seems to be stretched out where the arrow is. What happens (I know happened to me once), is that it can be a major pain trying to keep that rubber seal in-place when putting the cone back on. I've learned to put the seal & cone in the freezer for about 10-15mins mins before doing so to try and get the rubber to contract. So if you don't get it in just right all the way around, part of the seal squeezes out when the cone is tightened. When your out on the water, the oil pressure builds and forces all of the oil out and water gets back in. Mine caused a catastrophic failure of my pump or in other words a REALLY BAD DAY on the water.

 

[fredm21]

I have a pretty good idea as to what happened...

If you look at the photo your rubber seal seems to be stretched out where the arrow is. What happens (I know happened to me once), is that it can be a major pain trying to keep that rubber seal in-place when putting the cone back on. I've learned to put the seal & cone in the freezer for about 10-15mins mins before doing so to try and get the rubber to contract. So if you don't get it in just right all the way around, part of the seal squeezes out when the cone is tightened. When your out on the water, the oil pressure builds and forces all of the oil out and water gets back in. Mine caused a catastrophic failure of my pump or in other words a REALLY BAD DAY on the water.

View attachment 25063

What kind of damage you've been involved into?

Bearing seized?
Bent shaft?

I brought it to the dealership this afternoon, they should rebuild it under warranty. I hope they will do it the right way!

 

[vission]

Yes, bearing seized, blew off the cone and cracked the pump. Luckily the drive shaft did not get bent. So I had to replace the whole pump and cone from SBT.

 

[fredm21]

Yes, bearing seized, blew off the cone and cracked the pump. Luckily the drive shaft did not get bent. So I had to replace the whole pump and cone from SBT.

Aouchh! Sounds like expensive repair!
Im glad mine didn't get that far, even tho it's gonna be expensive to rebuild!

 

[fredm21]

Hey guys! Tomorrow i should re-install my rebuilt pump. I'm still not sure if I should keep the stainless washer between the pump and hull, what do you guys think?

 

[fredm21]

Do i need to re-align the motor if I remove the ss washer ?

 

[Bonmotwang]

The washer there could be a spacer too. Is it going to be too close to into the drive shaft without them?


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[fredm21]

I did not try it without the washer spacer yet but in the spare part catalog it doesn't show up anywhere? Sounds like it's not from factory?

 

[Walid Elbegarmy]

I am in the same situation like yours but I have to change it my self. Was it hard to take off the pump? Any advice which wear ring to buy, found few on eBay vas some cane in stainless steel ring vice nylon? Also any advice on removing the pump without damage anything else? Thanks everyone


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[fredm21]

The pump is really easy to remove, 4 bolts and 2 link if my memory is good! Make sure you disconnect the black water hose inside the engine compartment.

 

[fredm21]

Hey guys, how do I know if my carbon seal is tight enough against the shaft?

 

[fredm21]

Anyone? Please