chevyzrule810
Member
I have a 96 GTX that I am trying to take off the carbs.The allen head bolt snapped off and I can't get the carbs off.Any suggestions on how to remove the bolt without doing damage?
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carberator bolts broken
- Thread starter chevyzrule810
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Aluminum Oxide...
There are a pot load of threads in the forum on this subject. After reading this, you might want to use the search engine for more on the problem. Use words like "aluminum oxide" ....."iron oxide"...."carb bolts"....
This is a common problem on our skis. All of us (I have a 97 model 787) have run into this at least once. It's not going to be the only bolt you come across like this either.
It's mostly caused through electroylsis by the two different types of metals, coming together, stainless and aluminum.
Course of action? Thats tough since I don't know how far you got before this happened. Chances are, the seizure is in the shaft of the bolt, not the threads. I have had to use my dremel and cutting wheel to remove on but I had a small amount of space between the carb and manifold to work with. Once that bolt was out, I could spin the carb to remove the other one. If you are at this point, be careful, you can bend the butterfly if you don't hold it closed.
Last option, remove the 4 bolts on the rotary and remove the entire manifold and carbs. Depending on how bad it is, you may have to seek out a machine shop. Good luck!........oh, and pictures in this case are worth a thousand words.........:cheers:
There are a pot load of threads in the forum on this subject. After reading this, you might want to use the search engine for more on the problem. Use words like "aluminum oxide" ....."iron oxide"...."carb bolts"....
This is a common problem on our skis. All of us (I have a 97 model 787) have run into this at least once. It's not going to be the only bolt you come across like this either.
It's mostly caused through electroylsis by the two different types of metals, coming together, stainless and aluminum.
Course of action? Thats tough since I don't know how far you got before this happened. Chances are, the seizure is in the shaft of the bolt, not the threads. I have had to use my dremel and cutting wheel to remove on but I had a small amount of space between the carb and manifold to work with. Once that bolt was out, I could spin the carb to remove the other one. If you are at this point, be careful, you can bend the butterfly if you don't hold it closed.
Last option, remove the 4 bolts on the rotary and remove the entire manifold and carbs. Depending on how bad it is, you may have to seek out a machine shop. Good luck!........oh, and pictures in this case are worth a thousand words.........:cheers:
timmyboy76
New Member
yo...with the heads snapped off, should be able to pry/move the carb around to free it of fthe base gasket, and lift it up. Then get some pb-blaster, soak the bolts/threads, and then with channel-locks/vise grips, grab whats left of bolts, and turn...
jwick86
New Member
Yes that is my intent. However the carb is stuck on there pretty good from the oxidation around the shaft and the carb. And with the carb being aluminum housing it will brake if we pry too hard. I've been spraying pb blaster and seadoo xps spray on the shaft trying to get things loosened up but still to no avail yet. As snipe said, pictures help out so we gave pics for others to see and hopefully have some idea's we haven't had yet.
If you can get a drill in there you could use Easy Out. I've never done this to a carb bolt before, but have used on many other broken bolts and they work good.
http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html
http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html
No easy outs....
No, the easy out idea is out of the question. I tried that. It didn't work. When you get a bit in the bolt, the only easy out you can use is a small one. I broke it, then, when I tried to go one size up, I expanded the metal when I tried to turn it, that it just made it worse.
What I don't understand is, with this problem being common, how come Mikuni hasn't made the stud pass through the carbs in an open style set up. They could cast the top and bottom with 1/2" ringlets top and bottom, the bolt shaft could pass through, leaving the majority of the shank open to the atomsphere and exposed from the side!
It looks like your easiest way to start on this would be to remove the rotary plate. But even then, your most likely to run into seized bolts there too!
If I was at a point where I had no other choice, I'd use a dremel tool (angle type) with a cutting wheel and cut gently into the side of the bolt between the carb and rotary plate (you only have to cut one). The depth of the dremel cutting wheel is about 1/16". I'd try and stay off the plate and cut into the carb side, as flush as possible with the carbs bottom. If you look at the way the carb is sealed, this small cut should not affect the sealing of the gasket at the throat of the carb.
Once off, you could work the bolt out. I worked mine out over the course of a couple days, soaking and taking another bolt (expendable) and tapping it out. You tap till you move just a tiny bit, flip the carb and do it from the other side. Then, soak. You'll have to do that often. The stud will move further and further each time you tap on the bolt from front to back and vice versa.
Good luck!...... your gonna need it!:cheers:
No, the easy out idea is out of the question. I tried that. It didn't work. When you get a bit in the bolt, the only easy out you can use is a small one. I broke it, then, when I tried to go one size up, I expanded the metal when I tried to turn it, that it just made it worse.
What I don't understand is, with this problem being common, how come Mikuni hasn't made the stud pass through the carbs in an open style set up. They could cast the top and bottom with 1/2" ringlets top and bottom, the bolt shaft could pass through, leaving the majority of the shank open to the atomsphere and exposed from the side!
It looks like your easiest way to start on this would be to remove the rotary plate. But even then, your most likely to run into seized bolts there too!
If I was at a point where I had no other choice, I'd use a dremel tool (angle type) with a cutting wheel and cut gently into the side of the bolt between the carb and rotary plate (you only have to cut one). The depth of the dremel cutting wheel is about 1/16". I'd try and stay off the plate and cut into the carb side, as flush as possible with the carbs bottom. If you look at the way the carb is sealed, this small cut should not affect the sealing of the gasket at the throat of the carb.
Once off, you could work the bolt out. I worked mine out over the course of a couple days, soaking and taking another bolt (expendable) and tapping it out. You tap till you move just a tiny bit, flip the carb and do it from the other side. Then, soak. You'll have to do that often. The stud will move further and further each time you tap on the bolt from front to back and vice versa.
Good luck!...... your gonna need it!:cheers:
jwick86
New Member
Snipe, I did what you recomended and cut the bolt on one side, the other came right out but unthreading it. Should we just soak it in a bowl of pb blaster and try to tap them out? I held the carb on the bench and hit the top of the bolt with a hammer and it didn't move at all. We have been spraying with pb blaster for about a week trying to get them free. My other thought was to cut the carb body where the bolt passes through to create an opening to allow the blaster to work from all ends. Don't know if its a bad idea or now we may get these bolts out now. Any advice?
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