cant figure out hard starting and off idle bog

[kilabez0]

2001 GTX XP 951. Bought it end of season last year. New fuel lines, rebuilt carbs with oem, fuel selector, everything. I didnt replace the accelerator pump diaphragm because it didn't come with the carb kit. Maybe that's my issue? Possibly rectifier according to some forum searching? I cant find the rectifier for the life of me in a parts schematic. If anyone could point me towards that I'd appreciate it. Other than that any ideas? Going to pull it out of the water for the season Friday. If I cant figure it out I'm debating selling it. Put a lot of work into it when I bought it only to have it be a pain in the butt the couple weeks I use it in the summer. You have to feather through the bog in order to work through it. My dad didn't have the throttle finesse like me and gave up. Understandable. Love the ski but I dont want to have to have it dying out in front of large crowds lol.

Oh and yes pop off is set correctly

 

[mikidymac]

The 01’ has an integrated rectifier so you can’t replace it.

I did have the same issue on my 01’ and it was the accelerator pump. The brass nozzles in the carb throats were plugged.

Remove the air box and with s mirror see if the carbs are squirting when you pull the throttle. The engine can be off.

 

[kilabez0]

I tried that on your recommendation before and couldn’t see in so I put my fingers in and they were getting wet but it’s not like I felt it actually spraying onto them. Should they be spraying enough to feel them or just getting wet like I said? Also if it sits for days or weeks it’ll pretty much only start the first time with starting fluid.

 

[mikidymac]

Use a mirror and a flashlight to verify they are actually spraying a stream.

As for the hard starting never use starting fluid on a 2-stroke. If it wont fire with the choke and a couple pumps of the accelerator pump you have something else wrong.

 

[kilabez0]

I think it has a bad moisture in the engine problem. That coupled with the barely working accelerator pump makes it so only starting fluid, or better yet some premix down the plug holes will get it to initially fire and burn off the moisture.

 

[Rabid]

Mykidymac is right get a mirror and check the nozzles they will spray hard when working right and it will rid you of the bog. You can get some carb cleaner and a length of hose and connect it to the brass fittings where the fuel line from the AC pump hooks up on the outside of the carb. fill the hose with carb cleaner and let sit a few minutes then blow the crap out with compressed air. Might need to do it a few times to get it to clear out.

 

[mikidymac]

Don’t get the carb cleaner inside the pump diaphragm as it can destroy it. There is also a check ball in there that can get stuck too.

As rabid said first try spraying the cleaner through the nozzle after the pump first and see if that does it before tearing the pump apart.

 

[kilabez0]

Ok after I pull the carbs off I will try that method with clearing the lines. If they’re supposed to be spraying hard I can guarantee you that they are not. How can I check this check ball? It sounds like 1 if not both of these are my issue.

When I cleaned the carbs when I bought the ski last year I was aware of these finicky AC pumps and the Tiny nozzle holes. Perhaps after cleaning them when we ran the machine to fog it and put it away they gummed up?

 

[mikidymac]

The ball is in the body of the pump cover. Once you remove it and the pump diaphragm it is in one of the holes. It lets foul into the pump but not out so it can be forced into the spray nozzles. It is just a check ball but if it is stuck you won't get a spray. I have had them so stuck I had to get a new pump body because you can't get to them to clean them.

There is also a restrictor in the hose from the carb to the pump that needs to be there to work properly. It is just a small brass piece with a hole in it. Typically it is lost when people replace those small 1/8" hoses.

 

[kilabez0]

I took the air box off and got a flash light and a small mirror and checked the nozzles. The first few pumps really squirted good. Now I had the machine off and eventually it stopped squirting fuel. I’m guessing this is because it wasn’t running and not able to suck any more fuel? I took a video of it I will try and upload shortly. By the time I got to the other side I could see it was squirting but like I said not as hard and eventually started just spitting. Is this because it wasn’t running?

 

[mikidymac]

Yes. You have depleted the fuel remaining in the carb. Without it running the fuel pump isn’t replenishing it.

 

[kilabez0]

Ok that’s what I thought. But it seemed to be squirting out pretty good. I’m lost as to what to do next.

Not sure how to upload a video from my phone

 

[kilabez0]

It’s giving me an error uploading my video from my iPhone 7. Weird. On another note I can’t believe that there is so much moisture that it turns the spark plugs rusty!

 

[kilabez0]

Could it possibly be the wear ring?

 

[kilabez0]

revisiting this thread from last year. I recall fuel spraying out really good while looking with a mirror. There is a thin grey hose that connects both carbs that I cut in order to separate them when I rebuilt them. I then used plastic hose barbs in order to connect them together again. I wouldn’t think this was an issue but wanted to throw it out there.

 

[mikidymac]

There is a small restrictor Jet in the small gray line. If you don’t replace it you’ll have problems.

Wait, I already said that in post #9.

 

[kilabez0]

Lol yes you did. I didn’t replace those hoses I just cut them and had to put a barb connector in between them because I couldn’t find line that size. Didn’t know if the barb connection was the issue. I’ll report back after I pull the carbs and check for that fitting.

 

[kilabez0]

I’m having a hard time finding the restricted part in a diagram. I remember having a hard time finding it before. Could you point me in the right direction please? Also don’t see the hose I cut with a price listed so it’s not available. I guess I’ll bring it to the dealer and hope they have some.

 

[mikidymac]

The restrictor is #82 in the diagram.
I assume you have a 2001 GTX from the red hull not an XP from your first post?

 

[kilabez0]

Yes red gtx. I think when I pull the carbs I’m going to take them to the dealer and have them check them out

 

[kilabez0]

Pulled the carbs off and removed the thin grey line from the carb to the pump and the small brass restrictor is in there and I can blow through it. Not sure where this check valve ball is but honestly I feel the pump is working fine. Some of the fuel line clamps were not that tight and seemed to possibly be leaking. I’m wondering if that was my problem. I also didn’t use stainless clamps on the ones I replaced so they rusted completely and I’m putting the special UV with metal insert zip ties in their place. Debating replacing this grey line that I had cut in order to separate the carbs. I had to use barb connectors. I do have different sized tygon fuel line I just bought for a chainsaw project that would probably work.

 

[Digdog]

You should look at or at least consider the crank seals, on sleds we used to spray some WD40 on the shaft while it is running and if the engine changes tone then you know it's leaking.

 

[kilabez0]

Good point. I’m not sure I tried that. I’ll do that when I get home in a bit thank you. And I replaced half of that gray hose because I wanted to see if my hose barbs were causing too much restriction. But once I saw the nipple that the grey hose was on from the carb they were the same size

 

[kilabez0]

How can I even get to the crank seals? One end has the drive shaft and the other you can’t even see.

 

[mikidymac]

I wouldn't blame the crank seals until you do a leak down test first. To change the crank seals the entire engine has to come apart and cases split.