Yes, there should be a space behind the existing battery for the tray. Just check the length of the screws so they only attach to the inner hull, and use self-tapping screws.
The wiring part was actually very easy.
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...but it can buy me a boat! (TLDR: Noob)
- Thread starter LionOnABeach
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The wiring part was actually very easy.
LionOnABeach
Active Member
Going to give these a go tonight. Maybe bend a coat hanger if I need to. Hopefully that’s the cause and my vibes go away. Is there any way to test before putting it in the water? Run it with the hose and rev up to 4K or so? If the debris is the cause, I should be able to notice it on land, right? I’m just apprehensive that I’ll go to the effort to dump it in the water and the vibration is still there.
Also, picked up another 15lb Danforth anchor on CL. Guide poles have shipped and will arrive Thursday. Read that thread over at GreenHulk and now I’m freaked out I’m sitting on a time bomb with the SC, lol! At least I know where to send for rebuild
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LionOnABeach
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LionOnABeach
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Hmmm...playing around and NAV light bc we might be on the water for fire works this weekend. The light pole in the back lights up, the the front red/green didn’t light up. Bulb on meter has continuity, pulled fuse and it looks good, socket has 12V. Gonna grab some bulbs first. Also, trailer light, rear right was out. Gonna grab bulbs for that too.
LionOnABeach
Active Member
Hooked up new hose setup. Much easier to connect but a swivel end connect would be better to eliminate twist. Ran out the motor up and down to 4K and back. Honestly couldn’t tell if vibration is completely gone. Felt and sounded good, but there’s still Some vibration and the sound is louder than when on the water. Being on water vs. trailer. Guess I’ll just have to dump it and see!
Light bulbs going out on boat and trailers are pretty common. Pretty easy to replace typically. Never ending process.
One way to keep trailer bulbs from blowing is to make sure your bulbs are not hot when you are putting in the water. The bulbs will burst if they are hot when they hit the water, unless they are LED
Sometimes when debris gets into the impeller, the wear ring can be slightly damaged causing that vibration you are feeling. Not saying that is the case, but would be worth having a shop look at it if you have vibration issues on the water.
LionOnABeach
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Here’s the rub; all the lights I just wanted to replace light up when I put them on my homemade 9V bulb tester. NAV rocker switch in first ON position, back white light on pole is on, front socket 0V. Second ON position of switch, back light on, front socket at 12V, but when I put confirmed working bulb in...nothing! this one has me flummoxed.
Trailer light bulbs also work on my bulb tester but not when in housing. More tinkering to do on those and the wiring.
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LionOnABeach
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Damaged how? Like deformed? Or scratched/pitted? I’m trying to think like a rotating assembly and come up with anything that would affect a unit making a full revolution every 9 milliseconds (7,000 rpm=116 rps = .116 RP ms).
looks like water test it is! Go to launch early, hopefully with no one around, leave trailer on ramp for a quick spin and either come back to dock and pull rig out or reload and come back here.
Thanks!
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LionOnABeach
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LionOnABeach
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On the water right now; no vibrations! The little piece of wood was the culprit. Phew. Would have been bad if that wasn’t it bc had the whole family loaded up.
Picked up a new battery at Menards but haven’t installed yet. Will post a pic later. Grabbed a new anchor line for the other anchor. Guides got delayed in shipment; now tomorrow says UPS.
Ok, kids want to tube after chilling in the cove.
Picked up a new battery at Menards but haven’t installed yet. Will post a pic later. Grabbed a new anchor line for the other anchor. Guides got delayed in shipment; now tomorrow says UPS.
Ok, kids want to tube after chilling in the cove.
Light bulbs are a strange animal. Not overly expensive to replace, so perhaps grab a few new ones at auto parts store and see if it makes a difference. If you have to replace the whole light socket/bracket then so be it. It won't break the bank.
Good to hear that the vibrations are gone. Sometimes those wear rings can be dented, collapsed or mis-shaped by debris causing issues. Sounds like you are good to go.
Assume the battery is FVP from Menards? Good batteries from what i've heard. My batteries are from O'reilly for what its worth.
LionOnABeach
Active Member
Bulb is good. Picked up new ones too. Still nothing. I want to be out tonight for some fireworks. I get 12V at the socket. Might have to rig something up today and order new housing.
LionOnABeach
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Interesting; thanks for the info. I triple checked beforehand to make sure I got all the debris. Was a relief when I put the power on and back to normal.
FVP, correct. Didn’t put it in yet because I didn’t have time. Will today.
LionOnABeach
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Got the guides. Painted the exposed ends black with some paint I grabbed at auto-zone. Mounted underneath trailer rail bc I was worried about the end protruding into the trailer area. I don’t think it would have a chance to scrape the hull and I also didn’t want them to be too high either. Mounted out about 12” from trailer rail to brace weld (not center of bend; the brace was the easier to measure from there). Tried to eyeball about 4” clearance per side. Looks like the port one is just slightly less than 90 in the bend. Will try out tonight and see how it works!
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C9R0J0
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I didn't read every word in this thread but your light issue could be the switch itself. That's if the switches are the same on the 07 as my 06. A bunch of mine were only working intermittenly. I took them apart and cleaned the contacts and they've been working good ever since. A word of caution though, there are springs and other small pieces in there, so open the switch slowly so you know what goes where. It's a PITA to get them back togerther, but it can be done. It's much easier to have one end up than the other, but I forget which it is now.
C9R0J0
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Let us know how these guides work for you. As you discovered, pulling these boats out can be a real ordeal if the ramp is steep. That said, I find they are pretty good and self leveling if the ramp is level and there is no wind.
LionOnABeach
Active Member
Thanks for the info. I’m getting 0V at the socket where the bulb fits when switch is at Anchor (and the light on anchor pole does light up) and 12V at the socket when switch is on NAV (and anchor light still works). I ordered a new switch though, so I’ll keep messing with it.
LionOnABeach
Active Member
The Captain said “that was the smoothest launch and loading yet!”
The guides worked great. There was a decent breeze when launching and the guides kept it centered. Glad I went with the 65” bc there looked to be about 24” of the pole out of the water. Backing the trailer out of the parking space was easier as I could better see where the rear of my trailer was. Loading up was easy too. Even though
Launch is well lit, from the land side, it was nice to see the guides sticking out. Came in slow, had a few inches on each side, a slight breeze pushed it a little, guide did it’s thing. I think not having to worry about getting sideways is a untold bonus. I gave a little throttle to get on bunks, strap on winch and pull it to where the tip of the bow is just slightly behind the roller (so that when I pull forward a few feet and the stern settles, the upward movement of the bow won’t hit the roller), pull forward a couple feet and everything stays centered, winch the last foot, and yank her out!
Would definitely recommend. Made in the USA in Minnesota, shipped same day I purchased, UPS ground - which is included in the price! - and good quality components. And about the same price as some of the ones on Amazon.
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LionOnABeach
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Forgot to follow up and thank you. Yes, I didn’t pull the plug and went into the water with the lights on. I grabbed new bulbs, but the old ones weren’t damaged actually. Pulling the plug is now on my prep checklist. Thanks!
LionOnABeach
Active Member
Swapped battery yesterday. Nothing to it, just need a 9/16ths (positive post but) 1/2” (negative post but) and 7/16ths (hold down bracket) sockets. the old batter had lost adaptors so even though new battery had bolt and smooth posts, I transferred over to new battery. Little dielectric grease on everything, cinch it down and done. Upon closer inspection, old battery was 2012. I feel much more comfortable leaving the radio on while we relax on the water!
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C9R0J0
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Good to hear!
LionOnABeach
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Took her out on the big lake (Lake Michigan) today. Calm before noon then picked up with the wind. 2-4 ft waves. Put in at East Chicago, went around to the local park the is semi protected by Indiana Harbor. Then went over to Miller Beach. Pulled some tubes along the way, but then pulled them in and motored. Anchored off the beach, hung out, went back to harbor area. Handled the waves fine but got splashed a few times. Anything more than that I think I’d tuck in. Or without the kids. But man, that was a blast on big open water!
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LionOnABeach
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Ok, so apparently in my haste, I didn’t order the two position NAV light switch, just a couple on/off light switches. Which is fine, bc turns out the blower switch was broken so previous owner swapped it with the interior light switch. My blower switch was in the interior light switch position (right side, position 1 of four, left to right), and the light switch was in the blower position (left side, position 1 of 2).
So I popped the cover off the bad blower switch and put it on a new switch, popped in in place. I put the original light switch (had been blower) back into correct position, but when I tested it, the lights came on, but very weak and sorta flickered. I swapped that with the second switch I got (was meant to be a spare) and lo and behold, lights were much, much brighter.
so now I’m thinking I need a true replacement For the NAV switch. Maybe I’m getting 12V, but not enough power to light the bulb?
C9R0J0 - I pulled apart the bad blower switch and you’re right! Buncha little springs and parts. There was a rattle in the switch and a little plastic part had broken off, so couldn’t fix but was good to see the internals. The bottom Half is the part of the switch that would stay flat on the workbench as you put the top half on, otherwise those little springs go flying. Before I pulled it apart I did clean up the contacts with a Brillo pad, which did shine them up but it had no effect. I got my other Carling switch from Great Lakes Skipper out of Racine, WI (decent price, shipped out in one day and arrived after two via USPS). Can’t find a NAV three position switch on their site. Maybe will call/e-mail tomorrow. Pic attached is switch. And some others.
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