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BRP quality conrol

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I spent my whole afternoon going over my new RXT-X 300. Gotta say, I'm really disappointed with BRP's quality control. i was expecting the same quality and finish I got on my 2 90's era Doo's that I bought new back in the day. On my prior Doo's, all the fasteners had backers, all the fiberglass edges were either rolled or finished, and all the clamps and fasteners were quality parts, none of them needing adjustments upon delivery to me. They were great right outta the crate. They were built strong and I never regretted buying them.

Fast forward to today with my T-X. I found almost every hose clamp needed to be tightened or adjusted. All the edges on the fiberglass are sharp and unfinished(The scratches all over my arms from being under the hood will remind of that for the next few days), and my handlebars are at 25% right turn with the nozzle straight. Just a lousy assembly job.

Then I saw the sticker on the on the swim platform...."Assembled in Mexico".

Don't get me wrong, I love the T-X. It's performance and looks are second to none. Truly a bad azz machine. But for the amount of $$$ we are paying for these machines, I would expect the attention to detail on the small stuff to match the attention to detail on the design, looks, and performance. I say this because there was a time when it did. When they were assembled in Canada.

So...tomorrow I will take the T-X back to the dealer to replace a loose coolant hose clamp that just spins and can't be tightened(stripped) and a handler bar/nozzle alignment. And it hadn't even seen a drop of water yet.

BRP, time to pack it up south of the border and get back to your roots.
 
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i hear ya. And I'll say I lay down a towel anytime I'm going under the seat now. The steering adjustment at the handlebars I found was easier to get to from the front. Sadly I am still trying to get it adjusted to track straight. For something like this I hate to take it to the dealer as they are an hour away and I'd have to put it in the water to test it after their adjustment anyway. Just easier and saves me time to do it myself.
 
My dealer is almost an hour away too. If it wasn't under warranty I would've had it already done. But with it being only a few days old and not even seen water yet, I'm bringing it back to let them do it. I want the coolant hose clamps replaced with good clamps, not the junk that was in there. I looked at the nozzle and it appears the adjustment rod is the same as my old Doo's and I'm sure I could adjust it myself. I'd rather have it documented and let them have first crack at it before I play with it.
 
So it's not just me that was surprised by the saw cut unfinished edges to the fiberglass and having to pull fiberglass splinters out of my arms after installing a cable for the battery maintainer. So it's not just me that has a handlebar that isn't straight while the machine is traveling straight forward. So it's not just me that was surprised by the "made in mexico" sticker. So it's not just me that had to tighten hose clamps and fasteners. What the heck is up with this. This is my first Seadoo, always had Kawasaki and Yamaha pwc's before (been riding pwc's 28+ years). I'm sure they all have quality control issues but this seems a little much.
 
Back in the mid and late 90s when I bought my other Doo's, there was none of this QC disappointment. Sea Doo designed and assembled a great boat. Neither of those boats ever went to the dealer for warranty work and both are still running strong today. I expected the same quality build with this boat but sadly, that's not the case. Most of it is just nuisances but the coolant hose clamp issue has damaged a lot of 300s this year. Thankfully forums like this exist to keep everyone informed
 
So it's not just me that was surprised by the saw cut unfinished edges to the fiberglass and having to pull fiberglass splinters out of my arms after installing a cable for the battery maintainer. So it's not just me that has a handlebar that isn't straight while the machine is traveling straight forward. So it's not just me that was surprised by the "made in mexico" sticker. So it's not just me that had to tighten hose clamps and fasteners. What the heck is up with this. This is my first Seadoo, always had Kawasaki and Yamaha pwc's before (been riding pwc's 28+ years). I'm sure they all have quality control issues but this seems a little much.
Ok I thought I was crazy because my '16 GTI SE 130 is my first ever ski. I swear it feels like it pulls to the left. My husband said not possible....but after reading all your posts, I really think it is!!! Can this be fixed by me or do I have to take it back to the dealer?
 
Ok I thought I was crazy because my '16 GTI SE 130 is my first ever ski. I swear it feels like it pulls to the left. My husband said not possible....but after reading all your posts, I really think it is!!! Can this be fixed by me or do I have to take it back to the dealer?

At the nozzle there is an adjustment. Simple fix for minor steering issues.
 
Like coastiejoe said, the steering can be adjusted. While the handlebars are straight, if you look at the nozzle it should be pointed straight back. If not, the end of the steering cable has threads to make adjustment as needed. Most jet drives do have a little torque steer so you may or may not get perfectly adjusted the first time. Sometimes, on the water testing is needed and another adjustment may be needed to get the bars completely straight. Some machines have adjustment both at the handlebars and the nozzel. Just don't go to far, make sure you have enough threads caught so it doesn't come apart while under way on the water.
 
It's easy enough to make the adjustments. I used a 4ft level and a 2 foot level. Placed the 2 foot level on the handle bars (in the middle extending across for one hand grip to the other). I used a 30qt turkey frying pot to rest the 4 ft level on for the back.

Once your handle bars are level (verified by the level resting on them) move to the back. With that level resting evenly on both side of the nozzle take a measurement (same place on both sides of the ski). I measured mine just inside each drain plug but you can use anywhere across the back as long as it's the same approximate location on both sides. This will tell you how far out of "alignment" you are or are not. Mine was nearly an inch off 2 weeks ago when i started adjusting it. Today I got it set within a 1/8" so tomorrow hopefully I can go test it out!!:cheers:
 

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It's easy enough to make the adjustments. I used a 4ft level and a 2 foot level. Placed the 2 foot level on the handle bars (in the middle extending across for one hand grip to the other). I used a 30qt turkey frying pot to rest the 4 ft level on for the back.

Once your handle bars are level (verified by the level resting on them) move to the back. With that level resting evenly on both side of the nozzle take a measurement (same place on both sides of the ski). I measured mine just inside each drain plug but you can use anywhere across the back as long as it's the same approximate location on both sides. This will tell you how far out of "alignment" you are or are not. Mine was nearly an inch off 2 weeks ago when i started adjusting it. Today I got it set within a 1/8" so tomorrow hopefully I can go test it out!!:cheers:

Did you make your adjustments at the nozzle or the handlebars? X-T looks pretty tough to get to the bar adjustment. Dealer doing mine though. With my nozzle straight, the bars are turned to the right about 25%. That's pretty drastic.
 
Did you make your adjustments at the nozzle or the handlebars? X-T looks pretty tough to get to the bar adjustment. Dealer doing mine though. With my nozzle straight, the bars are turned to the right about 25%. That's pretty drastic.

I made my adjustment at the handle bar and it isn't that bad to get to. I removed the divider between the storage and the engine compartment and got to it from the front. I used a flashlight and a mirror to see what was what. I was probably just a touch over 25% to the left on the handle bars before I started. Adjusting 1/4 turn at a time to straighten the nozzle while making sure the handle bars were still level. Takes only a few minutes to make the adjustment but once it's in the water is when you will know for sure if you got it right. I choose to make them at the handle bars for 2 reasons. 1. I'm not real big on the idea of a adjustment nut only holding on by a few threads. 2. Adjustments as large as I had to make should be done on the larger adjustment option. Think of it as different level of adjustment. The nut in the front I saw about a 1/4" movement from a 1/4 turn of the nut vs a 1/8" movement from a 1/4 turn of the nut at the nozzle. Make sense? I'm not always that great at explaining myself
 
Mine will definitely need to be made at the handlebars. My bars are waaaay off to the right with the nozzle straight.
I only looked at the divider quickly and didn't see how it comes out. Those 3 black plugs on top of the divider just pop out? It's got to go back to the dealer but im sure it will have to be tweaked again once out on the water. So I should probably know how to get the divider out without damaging the clips.
 
Mine will definitely need to be made at the handlebars. My bars are waaaay off to the right with the nozzle straight.
I only looked at the divider quickly and didn't see how it comes out. Those 3 black plugs on top of the divider just pop out? It's got to go back to the dealer but im sure it will have to be tweaked again once out on the water. So I should probably know how to get the divider out without damaging the clips.

They come out easy. Use a flat head screw driver to pry the inner pin from the outer plug (there is a small groove for the screw driver to fit in). Most likely it will pop out but this is ok. It's easier to reinstall them separated anyway
 
I'll check it out tonight. I hate to take it to the dealer for hose clamps and steering cable adjustments. Especially when I am more than capable of doing it myself. But having the issues documented under warranty is probably a smart move for me. Just not a convenient one.
 
I'll check it out tonight. I hate to take it to the dealer for hose clamps and steering cable adjustments. Especially when I am more than capable of doing it myself. But having the issues documented under warranty is probably a smart move for me. Just not a convenient one.

I agree it's always a smart move to have the small issues documented
 
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