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Broken Piece and Smashed Corner on 657x engine, also flywheel timing

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So as I go back to work on re assembling a 657x for my seadoo xp, I find the engine on the ground, a piece missing and the corner of the head smashed, also at this time I was attaching the flywheel and stator, luckily those parts were still on my bench and nothing was broken on them, so I continued to assemble the engine. In the manual there was something about flywheel timing and making sure your old mark aligned, I have a brand new engine and there is no mark on the flywheel so I figured the woodruff key alignment was good, also there is a thick glob of lithium grease on the woodruff key, so I just wanted some input in the engine and flywheel, thanks.20180624_120422.jpgengine damage,
 

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Is this a remanufactured engine? The paint looks pretty clean compared to the rv plate and intake.

If any part of the ignition system is replaced you should retime the motor, do not rely on any cast marks. It is a bit of a time consuming process that is covered in the shop manual. There may be other links that describe it in detail as well. The only time I do not time my rebuilds is if the rebuild reuses the crank and all ignition components, I just use a small chisel/punch to mark my stator and case before I take things apart and simply line those marks on reassembly. If the crank is new then the woodruff key could be a hair off and change the relationship of the flywheel magnets to the stator coils, so even if you did "punch" the block and stator you will need to retime the ignition of the motor.

From what you described it sounds like the motor fell off the bench???? Any resulting damage from that is a judgement call on you part.

I just spent half of last season bringing a "throw away" 94 xp back to life. The crank was new in my rebuild and did require timing. Be patient and do it right or you can have many more headaches down the road. Good luck.
 
Is this a remanufactured engine? The paint looks pretty clean compared to the rv plate and intake.

If any part of the ignition system is replaced you should retime the motor, do not rely on any cast marks. It is a bit of a time consuming process that is covered in the shop manual. There may be other links that describe it in detail as well. The only time I do not time my rebuilds is if the rebuild reuses the crank and all ignition components, I just use a small chisel/punch to mark my stator and case before I take things apart and simply line those marks on reassembly. If the crank is new then the woodruff key could be a hair off and change the relationship of the flywheel magnets to the stator coils, so even if you did "punch" the block and stator you will need to retime the ignition of the motor.

From what you described it sounds like the motor fell off the bench???? Any resulting damage from that is a judgement call on you part.

I just spent half of last season bringing a "throw away" 94 xp back to life. The crank was new in my rebuild and did require timing. Be patient and do it right or you can have many more headaches down the road. Good luck.
This is a brand new SBT Engine, everything else is still from 1994, but I timed the oil pump, the ignition system wasn't really replaced just moved to a brand new engine and slapped on.
 
Part of your ignition system is the crank shaft, more or less. It has the key way cut into it that holds the flywheel that determines the relationship of the magnetic field that generates the spark at the proper time in relation to the position of the piston. If that key way is off from the crank throws that hold the connecting rods then the only way to correct for that error is by rotating the stator plate to ensure the spark plugs are igniting at the proper time before TDC. The only way to make sure the stator is in the right spot is to "time" the motor according to the shop manual.

Rebuilt cranks are very close, or dead on, with the key way but to be sure you should time the motor. Worst case scenario is the motor is reassembled with the timing too advanced which can lead to detonation (VERY BAD) and kill your new rebuild.
 
Part of your ignition system is the crank shaft, more or less. It has the key way cut into it that holds the flywheel that determines the relationship of the magnetic field that generates the spark at the proper time in relation to the position of the piston. If that key way is off from the crank throws that hold the connecting rods then the only way to correct for that error is by rotating the stator plate to ensure the spark plugs are igniting at the proper time before TDC. The only way to make sure the stator is in the right spot is to "time" the motor according to the shop manual.

Rebuilt cranks are very close, or dead on, with the key way but to be sure you should time the motor. Worst case scenario is the motor is reassembled with the timing too advanced which can lead to detonation (VERY BAD) and kill your new rebuild.
Ok, Thanks
 
It is my understanding that the 657 engine does not have timing marks stamped on the case s you will have to time it per the manual.

Also you will need a new head and head shell as those are damaged now and will leak plus your water fitting is broken off.
 
It is my understanding that the 657 engine does not have timing marks stamped on the case s you will have to time it per the manual. Also you will need a new head and head shell as those are damaged now and will leak plus your water fitting is broken off.
It is my understanding that the 657 engine does not have timing marks stamped on the case s you will have to time it per the manual. Also you will need a new head and head shell as those are damaged now and will leak plus your water fitting is broken off.
It is my understanding that the 657 engine does not have timing marks stamped on the case s you will have to time it per the manual. Also you will need a new head and head shell as those are damaged now and will leak plus your water fitting is broken off.
It is my understanding that the 657 engine does not have timing marks stamped on the case s you will have to time it per the manual. Also you will need a new head and head shell as those are damaged now and will leak plus your water fitting is broken off.
It is my understanding that the 657 engine does not have timing marks stamped on the case s you will have to time it per the manual. Also you will need a new head and head shell as those are damaged now and will leak plus your water fitting is broken off.
 
So I need a whole new head definatly?? If so then would this baby work? And I noticed the fitting that broke off seemed to be a flush fitting but your the pro
 

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After market performance is out of my realm. Mikidymac is your best bet on that head.
 
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So on the magneto and engine case I found a small chisel dent on each, they seemed to line up so I lined them up and slapped it together, do you think those were the marks to time the wheel corectly?
After market performance is out of my realm. Mikidymac is your best bet on that head.
 
I just re read the post. You said this was a rebuilt SBT motor. You have your original stator and flywheel, the case and crank are not your original parts. The motor still needs to be timed regardless.

If the case you are using is the original case then yes the punched timing marks would work IF you had the original crank as well, as long as the crank was not rebuilt. ANY TIME any part of the ignition system is replaced you have to retime the motor, this includes a rebuilt crank.

IF you are using the original case and stator then I would line those punch marks up as a starting point for retiming the motor, but I would never assume the marks are 100% dead on. There is always the possibility the rebuilt crank key way is off a hair.
 
I just re read the post. You said this was a rebuilt SBT motor. You have your original stator and flywheel, the case and crank are not your original parts. The motor still needs to be timed regardless.

If the case you are using is the original case then yes the punched timing marks would work IF you had the original crank as well, as long as the crank was not rebuilt. ANY TIME any part of the ignition system is replaced you have to retime the motor, this includes a rebuilt crank.

IF you are using the original case and stator then I would line those punch marks up as a starting point for retiming the motor, but I would never assume the marks are 100% dead on. There is always the possibility the rebuilt crank key way is off a hair.
Dammit.. and yeah it's original magneto but new block from sbt.. I also just retorqued it and put it in.. I had assumed the old case had the same mark in the same location
 
Theres always the possibility your retiming is off by a hair, this is really annoying now because I cant find good retiming instruction and I dont want to buy anything special
 
Here you go.
 

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