Broken bolts on intake grate

[Lumps]

Hi all,

I took my 2000 challenger 2000 in to get it winterized at a local mechanic. I also asked him to give it a once over as I thought I could see chips out or the ware ring. anyway when I went to go pick it up he told me 2 of the bolts holding on the intake grate were already broken off. I have been under there a ton fixing gel coat and I am 100% sure they weren't broken when I dropped off the boat....

Anyway. I now have the intake grate hanging on by only the 2 furthest back bolts. The grate is slightly loose now. how serious a situation is this? should I have this fixed before I use the boat again? or is this something that won't make a difference for the foreseeable future? any recommendations?


Thanks,
Lumps

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Is there any chance some loose parts might be ingested into the jet pump? There's an intake grate and the grate spring that could get caught up in there. Also there's a risk something too large might get sucked in, like a rock or stick off the bottom or maybe plastic bottle. Heaven forbid you might even suck a duck through that thing???

 

[ORION '95 Speedster]

If it were mine, I would "Glue" the grate in place with Permatex brand "The right Stuff" gasket maker. It will ensure that the grate does not come off. The grate needs to be there for safety reasons. After that, I would find another mechanic.

 

[Lumps]

I took a look a the parts diagram to find out what bolts I need to reattach the grate. From the diagram it looks like the broken bolts also hold the leaf Springs on that hold the grate closed. I can't tell if there is enough bolt left to keep the springs from going through the pump. I guess at very least I'm going to have to try and get the last two bolts out to see how much bolt is left.

I only went to the mechanic because I didn't feel I had enough time to learn to winterize my boat. Now I have to deal with this. I wish I would have put the effort into it in the first place

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Agree, it definitely wouldn't be nice if a piece got sucked in there....

Hard to say without seeing it of course but maybe try and see if you can remove the remaining bolts to gain access to the (broken?) bolts? Then once you get the grate off maybe you can grab the broken bolts with a vice grips and work them out if there's enough exposed thread?

 

[Lumps]

Agree, it definitely wouldn't be nice if a piece got sucked in there....

Hard to say without seeing it of course but maybe try and see if you can remove the remaining bolts to gain access to the (broken?) bolts? Then once you get the grate off maybe you can grab the broken bolts with a vice grips and work them out if there's enough exposed thread?

That's what I am hoping for. I had to replace the trim plate a couple of weeks ago. I alternated spaying the bolts with wd40 and seafoam. After 2 weeks they came out no problem. I didn't even need to heat anything. I am hoping since they have the same amount of salt and corrosion these ones should act the same.

I have been trying to figure out a way to hook the compressor on to help motivate the seafoam down the threads. Is too bad I can't flip the boat over and let gravity do the work

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I also use automatic transmission fluid for corroded bolts stuck in aluminum, mixed with acetone ~50% to help penetration.

It's smart to allow time for penetration, that's the key. Good job.

 

[Lumps]

ok so the saga continues.... so I decided to see just how tight the remaining bolts are on the grate. they looked like rounded hex but none of the other bolts in the area are hex so I did a quick search and a couple of posts say t30 torx. this is what all the other ones in the are area so this is what I was expecting.... the issue is that the hole is so mangled it won't fit. I am guessing the mechanic didn't have the right size torx or though it was hex? anyway he has totally pooched the back set of bolts too.

I can line up the tip of the bit with where the original point in the holes with the "fins" (splines?) of the torx bit. its hard to see but it feels lined up. Can I just pound the bit in all the way with a hammer and hope it will still hold? any advice?

I think I am only going to get one chance at turning these out (if that) even if I get the bit far enough into the holes. I am going to have to figure out some magic to get the corrosion out and just give it time. aside from wd40, seafoam and transmission fluid, anyone have any other secrets?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Wonderful. (sarc)

Driving the bit into the head will vibrate the screw and can help break the corrosion/galvanic bond perhaps, so yeah, that seems like your only choice. If that doesn't provide enough torque you may consider trying an easy-out large enough to fit the head, I'd guess the one with spiral flutes to try grabbing inside the head if the torx bit only slips. If the end of the tapered easy out is too small you can grind it off.

 

[ORION '95 Speedster]

Lets see some pics of this thing.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

This isometric drawing will help to visualize.

 

[ORION '95 Speedster]

Why did the mechanic try to take that apart in the first place? Did you ask for compensation for the damage he caused? You don't get what ya don't ask for.

 

[Lumps]

I think he was checking the state of the ware ring. He claimed it was like that when he got the boat. It wasn't. Anyway he offered to fix it but I don't trust him now so... worst part is I think he is the only one in my area to work on these. If I can't recover this myself I'll have to go to my old mechanic. He only works on Rotax style engines so I may have to beg. No one wants to take on fixing other people's messes

 

[ORION '95 Speedster]

Can you drill new holes and use self tapping bolts maybe?

 

[Lumps]

This isometric drawing will help to visualize.

In the diagram, the 27s are broken off and the 30 are stripped. I'll get actual photos tonight. Thank you to every one helping. I am stresses I can't get this fixed.

 

[Lumps]

Can you drill new holes and use self tapping bolts maybe?

For the stripped heads I am still hopeful I can get them out. For the broken off bolts I don't know how much bolt is left above the surface. I am hopeful there is enough to grab on. I hear reverse drill bits often turn the bolts out so maybe I'll end up drilling.

P.s. this is going to take awhile since I am going to soak the bolts for a long time to give them the best chance of releasing

 

[ORION '95 Speedster]

I think that using an Easy Out kit is the best option for removing the broken bolts.

 

[Lumps]

here are some pics. the ones with the rounded hole do actually hold when I try to turn them with the torx bit. I gave it a far bit of pressure but not enough to risk breaking them but also not enough to actually turn them any. I have been praying them all over (inside the grate and out) to try and get the oil to go up the thread. I don't think I have had much luck. I tied putting the hair dryer into the inlet and heating the side where the bolt would be. I left it for some time and it didn't really get much hotter. I think it just wasn't enough power. I even tried putting an ice cube on the head of the bolt. I didn't think it would hurt. anyway I am just going to keep oiling and testing until it comes loose or breaks.

I was thinking of drilling a small hole the length of the bolt so I could squirt oil into the top end of the bolt so gravity would let it flow down as I am starting to think I am kidding my self that I am getting any oil to where it needs to go.

p.s. if you can't tell from the pictures. the previous owner liked to run over rocks. I hope that hasn't "jammed" the bolts in. is that possible?

 

[ORION '95 Speedster]

I don't see any big problem here. Looks like an easy fix. Turn the rounded ones into flat heads and back them out, or just use the Easy Out tools. As for the others, drill the centers of the broken bolts, and tap new threads into those and use smaller bolts. Or use way over size short bolts and tap some new thread that way. After you have fixed stuff like this a million times, it becomes easier.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I use a hand impact driver for this kind of issue sometimes, the type used to assemble/disassemble motorcycle engine cases. I mainly use it for removing and installing oil drain plugs on the gear cases. This is the type you strike with a hammer.

If you use a rotary disk to grind a slot in the stripped head, you can use a flat bit.

I'm just throwing out ideas for things to try, corroded threads in aluminum cases from salt are NO FUN, can't tell you how many gear cases I've had to beat apart and none were fun.

Just keep at it with your soaking, sometimes it works and you have time. Also heat the bolt with a propane torch, or the acetone solvent will help loosen loctite thread locker if that's what's holding the bolts.

And, you can cut the grate off as well, worse comes to worse, to get at the bolts.

BE PATIENT

 

[XP 787]

That hand impact screwdriver works wonders.

 

[Lumps]

Hi All,

I am trying to get the boat ready for the water. I have not yet resolved the broken bolts. I worked with the impact screwdriver for a long time without luck. I ended up drilling out the 2 little bolts. they were really in there and the screw heads were really mangled. I have fully drilled out and tap one of the little ones and drilled the other enough to get the grate off.

Anyway, the bolts are really beefy. they must be REALLY stuck to have broken off. I don't know if I have the technology to drill them all the way out. The good news is that there is about a CM of thread sticking out of the metal. that would leave about 1 cm under the surface. Is the next step try to work them loose with vice grips?

or would the recommendation be to take them to some one with proper technology to remove these without having to drill everything or mangle the threads more?

thanks!
Lumps

 

[Lumps]

So I took two nuts and put them on the part of the bolt left sticking out. I used red locktite. I then tightened them against each other for a little more grip. Any way it's drying right now. What do you think? Will it hold? I'll find out tomorrow I guess

 

[racerxxx]

It will hold. Just remember to use the underside but to loosen. I would use a little heat if possible. They're probably locked to the aluminum unfortunately. If it cracks lose hit it with pb blaster or wd. I would go your route first and if that didn't work I'd drill them out and helicoil the threads.

 

[Kwik_uk]

Like has already been said, a little heat will help.

As you've got some thread to play with, try a stud extractor. Thermostat bolts on my outboard were like this. Same as nearly every bolt on the transom anode of most outboard brackets. Always a pita!