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Bought a GTS 1994 and no spark

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gtr86

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Have a 94 GTS and ran ok for a day or so after we pulled it from past owners and they stated it had issues too of running bad... then started to fall on it face a little the first day out, then got worse as you rode it, stick the throttle and it would almost die then run full out then would hardly idle, will struggle to go in N & reverse wanting to die, now it wont run at all... then hit starter and it may fire up but not run right" doggy" and loading up smells like fuel, compression is 145 in both, pulled carb, looks great, cleaned internal filter, tried checking for spark and cannot see it right now.........Any ideas on may being spark? How hard is it to get brain box out or even open to see coil if that could be it.......help....?
 
Well I got the electronics box out and the 15 amp fuse was blown, installed another and ski wanted to start then blew again the 15 amp fuse...help??????
 
You may have water inside the grey box next to gas tank. Pull the floor shoe release lever rearward and lift the box up and rearward to slip it out of the shoe and with the battery out of the way, you should be able to manuver it to sit on top of the magnito houseing and open it. Clean all the connections and dielectrical grease, fuse & holders too. Check the ground lug for snug after you clean n G all the black wires.
Gee....it sounds like you have old bad gas!!!!!in it.
 
Pulled the box out and looks brand new inside, this is where I found the 15amp fuse in my 94.... I have new gas in it, and plugs are wet, no spark when plug is tested against ground, 15amp fuse keeps blowing, is this charging related? Can this cause no spark the 15amp fuse?
 
NO SPARK
To figure out what's wrong, unplug the black/red wire between the coil and mpem (part with fuses) and see what happens. If it has spark then the mpem probably has an issue. If no spark, either the stator or coil are to blame. Also if it starts like that use the choke to kill since the kill switches will be bypassed.
 
OK, will try that....noticed when hooking up the Neg side of battery it sparks a lot with fresh 15amp fuse and can hear a clicking noise in either the box or the stator area? Never noticed this before?
 
OK, pulled the BLK/Red wire off the Module black....nothing/ no spark when tested...but noticed the 15amp fuse must be directly shorted as it is blowing when hooked up to battery I believe.... If its shorted then we will not have spark? Is this the regulator? Can it be tested?
 
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Pretty bummed as my kids are wanting to ride alone and the shop in my area is booked solid almost till seasons end....So hopefully you guys can help me...
 
you may have metal particles interference in the stator coils, bits of metal shards shorting grounding out the stator. you will need to get in there, open the cover, remove the flywheel. Look for starter bendix bits, chards, metal cathairs, broken flywheel pick-up magnet. vacumn out.
It takes three 4" long x 8mm by 1.25 thread pitch metric bolts screwed into flywheel only 1/4" (or you'll be into the coils behind it) to pull the flywheel useing an automotive three slotted harmonic balancer puller.

Bills86e
 
OK, checked the Stator and looks good yellow to yellow, but yellow to ground on 1 leg shows short, so I will be removing the flywheel....Any tips on timing if it needs to be replaced and cleaning just the flywheel and stator off will not work? Bills86e thank you so far for the info and looks like your on the money so far on this deal. Now going to pull cover off tonight after work and use I guess an automotive puller to remove and reinstall?
 
Going to pull my cover today if I ever get off work, called local shop and they want $351 for a new one.....holy cow went to the parts link on this site and same price.....any discount places on the net for new parts?
 
OK pulled the cover off...had water and oily type gunk come out of bottom of the flywheel area...pulling off flywheel nut and going to get puller to see if a seal is blown, cracked block or maybe when I forgot about the boat style plug and flooded the compartment it went into the area...not sure...getting pretty serious now.....:(
 
Well well...pulled the flywheel off my ski........ Stator was hanging on by 2 bolts...all bolts were out and stator was hanging there...one bolt was lodged in stator...flywheel has some scraping and looks like the crank seal may be leaking but not sure as there was so much moisture in there, anyway to pressure test the seal on the crank to see if its good? I think I can save this ski but not sure about the seal...light smell of gas in the moisture in this area...remember I did flood the engine area once :(with water forgot the plug and thinking water came into case when that happen maybe? Any thoughts? And if I get another flywheel are they balanced to the crankshaft like a car can be?
 
I make a block-off gasket from a piece of flat rubber and put in on the exhaust+pipe and flange+carbs. Hook up my air tube from pop-off tester to the pulse nipple and pressure up the lower case-crank cavity up to 10 psi x 10 minutes.

How To Check Crank Shaft End Seals LEAK-DOWN

You need to place a rubber gasket between anything that can allow air to escape from the cases, like between the manifold and exhaust pipe, under both carbs. Then pump air into the pulse line fitting.
Use soapy water to detect leaks at front & rear seals, flywheels removed.

I have seen brand new crankshaft seals leak. You cannot detirmine that a seal is good just by looking at it. If you do not do the pressure test, whatever "answer" you come up with may be wrong. A pressure test will tell you what leaks and what doesn't leak.
You can test a oil injection check valve with a pop off tester.

You may need to remove the Stator and is wires, unplug the Magnito Grey Connector
It has a "tooth" between the prongs that you remove. Then push them out of the connector useing a .093 crimp pin extractor, A Detent tool. (radio shack #274-223). In Liew, I have used a metal ball point pen tube, with good results.

Note the alignment mark on the caseing and the center of stator, this is the timeing alignment.

Bills86e
 
"Note the alignment mark on the casing and the center of stator, this is the timing alignment".......

OOPS it was barely even hooked by the bolts and it was dangling in there scraping into the flywheel, lucky it did not lock up it was so bad....

Found a stator, flywheel for my ski, are the flywheels balanced all the same amount or balanced to each crankshaft?

Lots of cleaning now and trying to remove metal shavings out of the cavity...

Thanks again..........
 
White motor 587's are all the same. Not specific for each individule crank.

Bills86e
 
Putting my motor back together....bought a Stator and flywheel....are there lines for timing on the stator since my factory one is bad?
 
It is simple. Look for a line at the bolt slot on the 9 o'clock position of the stator when the stator is mounted so that the harness is in position to be clamped into place by the harness bracket plate that goes on over the wires.

Now look at the left side of the case at the stator mounting area by where that 9 o'clock stator hold down bolt goes. See the line in the case ?
After you bolt the mag housing back onto the motor, place the stator in there so those two lines are alinged with each other and bolt down the stator. Bolt the harness bracket back on over the wireing harness from the stator. Place the mag flywheel back onto the crankshaft. Replace the mag cover. Your motor is properly timed.
 
Ok...Thank you found the marks and gettin dirty again... Just got home from vacation @ Cedar Point Ohio.... What as beautiful beach and place to go.... next time we will not be renting Jetski's as I hope to get my two up and running good by then...
 
Got my Stator in, installing flywheel and is it necessary to put lock tight on surface of the crank, was just going oil it a little to help installation.....
 
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