Muddinking
New Member
What brand oil do you guys use in your 2 stroke motors? I was wondering if it's all the same. I'd like to find a place that sells it for the cheapest price. Boating season is almost here! Thanks for any help guys. :cheers:
Best/Least Expensive 2 Stroke Marine Oil?
- Thread starter Muddinking
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Quicksilver...
I buy the Quicksilver oil by the gallon at Walmart. At first, I was skeptical that it would be o.k to run in my boat. I've been running their "Full Synthectic" for about 4 years now and my cylinders and bearings seem to love it... I went with the Quicksilver because the nearest Seadoo dealer was 2 and a half hours away.
If you take this avenue for your oil, make sure you get the correct type. It is not usually kept in the marine part of the store; you'll find it in the automotive side. Make sure you read the front label. It will point out that it is a non NMMA, non TCW oil. Then, to be sure, read the back label and you'll see it is approved by Seadoo and fits their requirements.:cheers:
I buy the Quicksilver oil by the gallon at Walmart. At first, I was skeptical that it would be o.k to run in my boat. I've been running their "Full Synthectic" for about 4 years now and my cylinders and bearings seem to love it... I went with the Quicksilver because the nearest Seadoo dealer was 2 and a half hours away.
If you take this avenue for your oil, make sure you get the correct type. It is not usually kept in the marine part of the store; you'll find it in the automotive side. Make sure you read the front label. It will point out that it is a non NMMA, non TCW oil. Then, to be sure, read the back label and you'll see it is approved by Seadoo and fits their requirements.:cheers:
Muddinking
New Member
Perfect! Thank you very much for the help guys. :cheers:
Muddinking
New Member
Went to my local Walmart tonight and couldn't find it anywhere. Not in the automotive or boating department.
I think I found some on Ebay. Is this the exact stuff I need? Why can't we use TCW oil?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...4fff812de&rvr_id=&ua=WX??&itemid=220525592799
I think I found some on Ebay. Is this the exact stuff I need? Why can't we use TCW oil?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...4fff812de&rvr_id=&ua=WX??&itemid=220525592799
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TCW is ashless. We need low ash. That is the right stuff. I am suprised your wally world doesnt have it. Here is the cheapest I have ever seen it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200371349267&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200371349267&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Depends on region. None of the wal-marts around me have it.
FYI guys.... the bottom eBay link is for a quart. that price is almost $38 /gal
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Muddinking
New Member
Awesome. Thank you very much! Any idea how many gallons of oil a 98 Sportster dual engine takes? Wondering if I should order a lot or just a few to start off.
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Oops, you are correct Doc. I missed that part. That for sure is not the cheapest. I saw the gallon pic and totally missed that it says that is for a quart. Thanks for the heads up.
for my 98 speedster with dual engines a gallon last 3 or 4 fill ups. I made it all summer on 2 last year.
Muddinking
New Member
That auction is pretty deceiving. The title says Quart but the description says gallon container and even has the pic of a gallon.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Then you weren't talking to people who know seadoo.
The only engine SeaDoo made (in the modern configuration) that can use TC-w3 oil, was the 587. But even that engine... you should use API-TC oil to protect the rotary valve gears.
FYI... here it is, right out of the '95 users manual. (the one for your boat)
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
I'd drain it out, and burn it in your Polaris. Saving a few $$$ isn't worth the time, effort, and $$$ to re-build an engine.
Oh... and just an FYI... if you use the correct oil in your seadoo... your engine should last +15 years. I just did a restoration on an 1990 Si, and the 20 year old factory engine still shows 140 psi in each jug. (the last owner used XPS mineral oil)
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Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
OK... I just saw it in your listing.
If you have a buddy with a diesel truck... give it to him to burn. It's good for his injector pump. I mix a quart of wal-mart TC-w3 into every other tank of fuel in my Cummins.:hurray:
SurfBeat
Active Member
TC-W3 For a 587cc Engine
Having just posted a thread on the bad and the ugly of using TC-W3 in my 587cc and conducting several hours of research on the oil debate, on the advice of SeeDooSnipe and before assembling my engine after a crankshaft replacement, I headed to Wal-Mart to purchase a couple of jugs of QuickSilver PWC oil.
Then, when I thought I had the final answer to the oil debate, TC-W3 v API TC, along comes Dr. Honda who makes a statement that TC-W3 oil is okey dokey for a 587cc engine! What the hell is going on!
I recall my 1993 GTX Operators Guide specifically states that only low ash API TC oil's should be used and NOT to use TC-W3.
I've already done a thread on the ash/ash less debate, so, maybe Dr. Honda knows more than me? (On that point, I've been using TC-W3 for several years, disregarding the SD Oper. Guide, so, I am not attacking the good doctor, simply making an observation.
As pointed out in one of my threads I posted today, unfortunately for me, my WalMart trip was unsuccessful because within a 30 mile radius of Riverside, CA, WM only carries Quicksilver Premimum Plus which is a TC-W3 oil.
Not one to be discouraged I visted a local Marine shop and found QS PREMIMUM and Premimum Plus Oils. The PREMIMUM is rated not only TC-W, but also rated API TC, but is a non-ash oil. (see above re: SD warning to not use no ash oils)
Based upon hours of research on the great oil debate I've read that albeit low ash oils typically provide added protection to an engine, that fact does not necessarily translate into meaning that we should select engine oil based upon whether or not it is ash or ashless, but what is more important is the oil quality classification., i.e., NAMM/TC-W3, API TC, etc.
In my case, because my 580 engine has no raves, buying QS PWC (which is a synthetic/low ash oil) will not be better for my engine, therefore, QS Premimum is fine and at $28 bucks it is $6.00 less a quart than Sea Doo's brand.
Having just posted a thread on the bad and the ugly of using TC-W3 in my 587cc and conducting several hours of research on the oil debate, on the advice of SeeDooSnipe and before assembling my engine after a crankshaft replacement, I headed to Wal-Mart to purchase a couple of jugs of QuickSilver PWC oil.
Then, when I thought I had the final answer to the oil debate, TC-W3 v API TC, along comes Dr. Honda who makes a statement that TC-W3 oil is okey dokey for a 587cc engine! What the hell is going on!
I recall my 1993 GTX Operators Guide specifically states that only low ash API TC oil's should be used and NOT to use TC-W3.
I've already done a thread on the ash/ash less debate, so, maybe Dr. Honda knows more than me? (On that point, I've been using TC-W3 for several years, disregarding the SD Oper. Guide, so, I am not attacking the good doctor, simply making an observation.
As pointed out in one of my threads I posted today, unfortunately for me, my WalMart trip was unsuccessful because within a 30 mile radius of Riverside, CA, WM only carries Quicksilver Premimum Plus which is a TC-W3 oil.
Not one to be discouraged I visted a local Marine shop and found QS PREMIMUM and Premimum Plus Oils. The PREMIMUM is rated not only TC-W, but also rated API TC, but is a non-ash oil. (see above re: SD warning to not use no ash oils)
Based upon hours of research on the great oil debate I've read that albeit low ash oils typically provide added protection to an engine, that fact does not necessarily translate into meaning that we should select engine oil based upon whether or not it is ash or ashless, but what is more important is the oil quality classification., i.e., NAMM/TC-W3, API TC, etc.
In my case, because my 580 engine has no raves, buying QS PWC (which is a synthetic/low ash oil) will not be better for my engine, therefore, QS Premimum is fine and at $28 bucks it is $6.00 less a quart than Sea Doo's brand.
WAJetboating
Member
Rule of thumb...
"Buy the best engine lubricants you can find."
Oil is cheap next to the time and money wasted fixing engines.
Here's another:
"They make expensive equipment (or in this case, oil) for a reason. Buy it."
"Buy the best engine lubricants you can find."
Oil is cheap next to the time and money wasted fixing engines.
Here's another:
"They make expensive equipment (or in this case, oil) for a reason. Buy it."
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
SurfBeat....
You've been busy on the oil threads.
OK... here's the deal with the TC-w3.
ORIGINALLY, SeaDoo recommended the use of TC-w oils in the yellow 587 engine because, the EPA wanted them to. After the first couple years... they changed their position on the oil, and with the white 587, they started to tell people to use the API-TC oils. Also, they changed the position of the oil injection lines from the face of the rotary valve, to the carb ports.
With that said... the TC-w3 are good oils, but they don't have the level of protection needed for the rotary valve, and gears. AND... on the 800 and larger engine... it can't protect the piston skirts because of the higher HP and higher RPM's.
I personally use walmart TC-w3 oil in my Yamaha Super jet. (and my Diesel truck) It works well, and protects the engine... but the Yamaha engine only make 65 hp, and is a reed valve engine.
What oil is up to you.
You've been busy on the oil threads.
OK... here's the deal with the TC-w3.
ORIGINALLY, SeaDoo recommended the use of TC-w oils in the yellow 587 engine because, the EPA wanted them to. After the first couple years... they changed their position on the oil, and with the white 587, they started to tell people to use the API-TC oils. Also, they changed the position of the oil injection lines from the face of the rotary valve, to the carb ports.
With that said... the TC-w3 are good oils, but they don't have the level of protection needed for the rotary valve, and gears. AND... on the 800 and larger engine... it can't protect the piston skirts because of the higher HP and higher RPM's.
I personally use walmart TC-w3 oil in my Yamaha Super jet. (and my Diesel truck) It works well, and protects the engine... but the Yamaha engine only make 65 hp, and is a reed valve engine.
What oil is up to you.
Disappointment
New Member
Bought my '97 Speedster from my uncle in '06 (he bought it new spring '98), at the time it had only used Sea-Doo's XPS oil. He threw in a couple of gallons with the purchase, so for the first season and a half I ran the XPS. No problems, no fouling, plugs were in pristine condition (though, the oil reservoir developed a crack around this time)..
Once the XPS ran out, I thoroughly cleaned the reservoir with mineral spirits and repaired the crack (JB Weld to the rescue!).. since then, I've been running Pennzoil's TC-W3 despite numerous protests. At $18/gal from Walmart, it sure beats the $28 they wanted for the Quicksilver PWC grade stuff. The past two-and-a-half seasons I have had no issues. I run WOT on occasion, almost never over a minute.. gets expensive if I do that too often. The oil you use is your risk, just letting you know of my experiences.
Once the XPS ran out, I thoroughly cleaned the reservoir with mineral spirits and repaired the crack (JB Weld to the rescue!).. since then, I've been running Pennzoil's TC-W3 despite numerous protests. At $18/gal from Walmart, it sure beats the $28 they wanted for the Quicksilver PWC grade stuff. The past two-and-a-half seasons I have had no issues. I run WOT on occasion, almost never over a minute.. gets expensive if I do that too often. The oil you use is your risk, just letting you know of my experiences.
SurfBeat
Active Member
Mr. Disappointment:
As I pointed out in other threads regarding the oils colloquy, my 93 GTX (587cc) froze on the last day of summer, about a 1/2 hour before I trailered it last year and after this non-mechanic, with the helpful advice from the boyz of the Forum, removed the engine out of the hull, disassembled the cases and observed that the Web on my crankshaft was cracked,
After pondering over the pros and cons of purchasing a CS from SBT, I found a local store (Competitive Crankshafts) in Orange, CA.
One of the owners, Jeff told me that he "had never encountered a cracked web" and further pointed out that "the bearings on my crank had severe signs of overheating."
He then asked, what "brand of TCW3 oil do I use?"
I smiled and when I proudly told him that I use "Vavoline Marine" his reply promptly took away my smile: "your bearings are an indication that you are using the wrong type of oil." If you want your engine to stay out of the shop, stop using TCW3 and use the kind of oil that your engine needs: API TC, Low Ash, not TCW3."
Since Jeff at CC does not work for Sea Doo, but is in the business of selling crankshafts and repairing all brands of PWC's, this white man is going to follow his advice.
Readers, be advised that this is not an advertisement for Jeff, (great service and advice) however, if you want an independent opinion regarding this subject, call Jeff at (714) 922-8229 and tell him you want information regarding what caused Joe's (from Riverside) crankshaft to go bad.
I'm an old fart that has endeavored, with vigor over my lifetime to save a buck, thus have always looked at information people give me with skeptic eye.
I've taken the time writing about this subject because I learned the hard way. The advice from this non-mechanic, but a wise, educated man, (teacher/lawyer) is to use the type of oil your Operators Manual calls for. That statement does not translate to using Sea Doo's brand.
Depending on the type of engine dictates whether to use a synthetic or a synthetic blend.
In my case, because I have an older (587cc) engine, I will use the synthetic blend.
Based upon the advice of SeaDooSnipe and Dr. Honda, I'm reaching for Quicksilver PWC.
I hope this additional information helps at least one person avoid the mistake I made.
To those that disregard my advice, good luck and keep the rest of us posted on the results.
As I pointed out in other threads regarding the oils colloquy, my 93 GTX (587cc) froze on the last day of summer, about a 1/2 hour before I trailered it last year and after this non-mechanic, with the helpful advice from the boyz of the Forum, removed the engine out of the hull, disassembled the cases and observed that the Web on my crankshaft was cracked,
After pondering over the pros and cons of purchasing a CS from SBT, I found a local store (Competitive Crankshafts) in Orange, CA.
One of the owners, Jeff told me that he "had never encountered a cracked web" and further pointed out that "the bearings on my crank had severe signs of overheating."
He then asked, what "brand of TCW3 oil do I use?"
I smiled and when I proudly told him that I use "Vavoline Marine" his reply promptly took away my smile: "your bearings are an indication that you are using the wrong type of oil." If you want your engine to stay out of the shop, stop using TCW3 and use the kind of oil that your engine needs: API TC, Low Ash, not TCW3."
Since Jeff at CC does not work for Sea Doo, but is in the business of selling crankshafts and repairing all brands of PWC's, this white man is going to follow his advice.
Readers, be advised that this is not an advertisement for Jeff, (great service and advice) however, if you want an independent opinion regarding this subject, call Jeff at (714) 922-8229 and tell him you want information regarding what caused Joe's (from Riverside) crankshaft to go bad.
I'm an old fart that has endeavored, with vigor over my lifetime to save a buck, thus have always looked at information people give me with skeptic eye.
I've taken the time writing about this subject because I learned the hard way. The advice from this non-mechanic, but a wise, educated man, (teacher/lawyer) is to use the type of oil your Operators Manual calls for. That statement does not translate to using Sea Doo's brand.
Depending on the type of engine dictates whether to use a synthetic or a synthetic blend.
In my case, because I have an older (587cc) engine, I will use the synthetic blend.
Based upon the advice of SeaDooSnipe and Dr. Honda, I'm reaching for Quicksilver PWC.
I hope this additional information helps at least one person avoid the mistake I made.
To those that disregard my advice, good luck and keep the rest of us posted on the results.
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