Base gasket, how many holes?

[One1]

What i was saying is that i keep coming up with different numbers and I’m simply checking to see if they are superseded numbers or different. What I’m focused on is the L ring because the one I’m looking at has a different number than the one you showed above. Any idea if they are the same?

 

[mikidymac]

What part of the part number are you having trouble understanding? The number I gave you is the correct number, it isn’t superceded and no other number is going to work.
Stop randomly guessing at part numbers.

Just because it starts with 290 only means it’s an engine part.

 

[mikidymac]

What i was saying is that i keep coming up with different numbers and I’m simply checking to see if they are superseded numbers or different. What I’m focused on is the L ring because the one I’m looking at has a different number than the one you showed above. Any idea if they are the same?

No, not even close, that is a top ring for an Explorer and is nothing like the bottom rings on your piston you posted.

How many times do you want me to tell you there are no other numbers, I already gave you the correct one and took you exactly where to buy it.

 

[mikidymac]

Let’s start over because we are going nowhere.

1. What year and model is your ski?
2. Is your piston stock or aftermarket?
3. Is your piston stock bore?
4. Do you need the top or bottom ring?

 

[One1]

I was asking why numbers were coming up opposite of the ones provided. I think you answered that by saying they were for the explorer (I’m not looking up in the thread replying here). I’ve already ordered everything days ago, i was curious. In fact i actually got everything other than the rings in the mail.

 

[One1]

I’m being super careful about putting these wrist pins on these cage bearings. They fit so tight i feel like I’m catching the edges of them with the pin as i push in. Seems like it could be easy to mess a bearing up doing this. When i was test fitting them below it was a very tight fit to get the pin around the rollers without pushing against them. The tapering on the wrist pin only gives me mild reassurance. It went fine, but was a pucker moment watching the rollers.

 

[mikidymac]

Make sure you put plenty of 2 stroke oil on those bearings.

 

[One1]

Well both the rings i ordered from your numbers came and they are both the same. Neither are the top ring. Take a look and the last pic is of my top ring on my new piston i already have. I’m waiting to contact the seller until you may have an idea of what came wrong so i tell him correctly. The one i had on watch that you said was for something else was the chrome edge with an inner lip like the one i have on my new piston. These both came black, no lip.

 

[mikidymac]

I don't know what to tell you but that 995 ring is the correct top ring for a stock 1994 SPX so either you have the year and model wrong or someone has switched pistons.

 

[One1]

Same rings i have in my piston pictured here at this website
OSD Sea Doo Piston Rings Set - 657 / 657X [OSD657RINGSET] - $32.99

Also same as the other rings that came from my old jug. So these are the correct rings. New rings and jug pictured above in the last post, old rings attached below. Ones i was told to order are wrong, I don’t care as long as i figure out why and what to get. Something is wrong somewhere but all the rings I’ve ordered with new pistons and old rings are the same except these and idk why

Your making this way more difficult than it needs to be.

No, just tired of getting sent the wrong part after they say it’s correct.

 

[One1]

Ebay auctions even show this ring as chrome outside band with an inner bevel. I believe i had the right one on watch all along. (But idk?)

 

[One1]

i ordered a new piston, jug, rings last year and it came identical to what was in it, I’ve attached the pic below of what was on the side of the jug.

Also, i know the last two digits on the vin are the year of the boat, which I’ve also attached below.

By ordering for my year and trim the item that came was a dead match to what it replaced. So I believe the only question is why it’s not matching what numbers you see. The boat is all stock oem. I just want the correct ring, i have to get this built asap. Anyone that knows the correct upper ring number please chime in!

 

[mikidymac]

This is for a 1994 SPX.
#13 is the top ring. Other than that I’m sorry.

 

[One1]

The new, new..... ring came. It doesn’t have the same chrome coating, but it’s the right size. I know the difference will be with wear of the surfaces, but after much ado this is as close as i can get.

Now I’ll be putting it together and I’m curious about the pump bypass i did. If i fill the tank with oil it should level itself out in the crank without the pump.....as in I can’t overfill it by just filling the tank?

What do seadoo owners like for break in? Heat cycle at idle or the throttle burst method? I’ve broken in a lot of dirt bikes, and they are different in how they like being broken in.

 

[mikidymac]

Yes, always keep oil in the tank, it will fill the cavity.

Break in is first full tank. Half the tank don’t go over 1/4-1/3 throttle varying the rpm as little idling as possible and heat cycle 15 minutes run 20 minutes cool. Then next 1/2 tank same thing up to 1/2 throttle. Next tank first 1/2 up to 3/4 throttle and finally last half of second tank you can go wide open but don’t hold it there. That’s it.

 

[One1]

Awesome. I know I’m supposed to put permatex around the red gasket for the domes - plugs. Anywhere else? I’m about to go look for torque specs and start cranking this down.

 

[mikidymac]

No RTV silicon anywhere on that engine. Use grease, 518 and thread lock exactly where the manual shows.

Also those carbs shouldn’t be on yet because you need them off when you pressure test the engine. And you are pressure testing it correct?[emoji6]

 

[One1]

Nothing is on anywhere. That’s why i said looking for torque specs. Everything is sitting there keeping dust out.

On this forum it says in several places to permatex the rings on top of the domes, but idk i bought new everything so every seal and gasket is brand new.

 

[mikidymac]

Just follow the manual. It shows exactly what to use and where as well as the torque specs.

You also used the exhaust manifold to align the cylinders before you torqued them down correct?

 

[poetbruce]

Gasket question. this is in my manual, does it mean i need a 4mm gasket replacement?
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION :
À Squish gap : 1.2 - 1.6 mm (.047 - .063 in)
Á MAG side : 0.05 mm (.002 in)
PTO side : 0.03 mm (.001 in)

 

[mikidymac]

Gasket question. this is in my manual, does it mean i need a 4mm gasket replacement?
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION :
À Squish gap : 1.2 - 1.6 mm (.047 - .063 in)
Á MAG side : 0.05 mm (.002 in)
PTO side : 0.03 mm (.001 in)

Are these your measurements with no gasket installed?
Á MAG side : 0.05 mm (.002 in)
PTO side : 0.03 mm (.001 in)[/QUOTE]

 

[poetbruce]

The old gasket was shot could not see the amount of holes, I got this info from the manual

 

[poetbruce]

page 12-1-06 of the 97
challenger manual

 

[mikidymac]

page 12-1-06 of the 97
challenger manual

You will have to measure your actual squish without a gasket then subtract that from the 1.2-1.6 spec to find the thickness of gasket "your engine" needs.

 

[poetbruce]

I am assuming that means put the jugs and sleeves back on without gasket, measure the open distance and then subtract from the specks. Is that right?