Automatic Bilge Pump not sending signal.

[moayad.jaffar]

Hi guys.
I have XP Limited 99.
The OEM bilge pump works outside the jetski directly connected to a 12v battery.
But does not work inside the Hull connected to the original wirings.
The Bilge receives 12v and very little of Amps once turn on the key for 30 seconds then the 12v disappear (that is how it is designed)
The issue is the Bilge pump does not sense the water load and send a signal to the ECU so the ECU will trigger the Bilge with 12v and 3 amps of current.
I checked the wiring and the 3 amps fuse seems OK.
There is anything I can do to fix the Bilge or I need to replace it?
Or connected the Bilge directly to the 12v with a (floater + Relay + fuse) so we know it works every time the floater closes the circuit by sensing the water level?

 

[Venturian1]

Electric bilge pump? Really? I've not seen one on an old 2-stroke before. Only suction lines coming off the pump.

 

[moayad.jaffar]

Yes It has OEM automatic Bilge pump with I think 1 Inch pipe to the back of the jetski.
I tried to connect the OEM Bilge directly to the battery with 3amp fuse and floater. I noticed the Bilge cables are little corroded.
It works few few seconds then the pump stops.
I ordered an Automatic Bilge pump with inbuild floater so don't need to install separate floater. Only 3amp fuse and directly connected to the battery.

 

[Venturian1]

I see in your pic, the bilge pump with a rubber discharge hose connected to it that looks like a 1/2" or 5/8". hoses are usually measured by the inside diameter (I.D.). I believe all pipe is measured the same way. If you've got corroded wires, that's probably the problem. the strands of copper within the insulation turns green and swells up and becomes lumpy and stiff when this happens. I would replace any wiring that is no longer soft and flexible. This usually happens at the ends of wires where moisture has penetrated into the insulation, and will migrate deeper into the wire eventually. I've had this happen not at either end, but close to the center of a wire, and with no signs of damaged insulation, and it was one of a bundle of wires inside a plastic tube. If you're doing any wire splicing, be sure to solder the connections, then use a marine grade of heat shrink tubing available at Harbor Freight stores. It has the inside coated with glue, like hot glue guns use, and keep the heat gun on it until you see glue ooze out of both ends all the around the heat shrink, to seal out any moisture. Especially Salt water seems to attack copper every chance it gets, fresh water doesn't seem as aggressive but will still get to it if there's a way in. Fuses can be coated with dielectric compound ( silicone grease ) to prevent this. And, any time you're doing wire repair, if the copper is not bright and shiny, trim it back a little further until it cleans up. It wont solder well at all unless you dip the stripped wire end into muriatic acid, but then, you need to neutralize the residue with baking soda and water mixture or the acid will eventually migrate into the insulation. best to just trim off any discolored copper wire. Trailer light wiring is bad about this.

 

[moayad.jaffar]

I had an issue with the main Negative cable. It was corroded also. I had to replace the cable from the battery to the engine body.
The corrosion increases the resistance of the cable which means the ECU will recieve less Volts and Amps which means the ECU can't send the signal to the coil to send the spark to the spark plugs.