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At what point do wear ring and impeller need replacement

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Mnelson

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My jet ski lost some top end speed and I took off the jet pump. Do you think that this could be the culprit. The west ring is tight in most places but has big gashes where rocks have been.
 

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That is absolutely the culprit. Any split or imperfection on the blade edge will cause turbulence the results in cavitation. That cavitation translates into a direct loss of turning engine HP to motion.

At minimum, you could file the edges to get rid of the lips and splits. This will reduce the turbulence and allow the water to have a laminar flow.

As for the wear ring, same applies here as it just creates a lip to induce cavitation.

If you are OK with this loss of speed, you can leave it as most likely it will not affect reliability short of possibly some more vibration forces on the bearings.

If it were me, I would put a new impeller and wear ring.
 
The cost for the parts and the special tool to remove the impeller (available on line) can be done in most DIY garages; but IF the new wear ring is too tight after the Freezer (shrinkage) technique does Not allow you to replace the OEM ring easily; don't start hammering it in as some YouTubers demonstrate. I recommend Either 1: spend another $160.00 on a Harbor Freight small shop press (easy to put together) and press in the new OEM ring correctly. Beware of cheap junk copycat rings that are not BRP OEM products. Trust me. I have done this a few times; some rings in/out after frozen; others not. The Press is the correct method. Watch the 3Ft Deep Videos; great demonstrations. Or 2: take the jet pump to a Seadoo shop or a local brake/welding shop and standby while they use their press to do it right. Expect to pay them for their shop time; cost varies based on location. If you DIY, follow the correct torque specs and be aware the impeller shaft sleeve is a REVERSE thread from standard righty tighty/lefty loosy. Have fun.
 
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