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Alternate Method for Lubrication of Rotary Valve Driveshaft Gears on 717's

Ed Clark

Active Member
I will repeat what others have said and which I strongly agree with in that the Rotax/BRP method of lubricating the crossed-helical, bronze-on-steel, rotary valve driveshaft gears is somewhat over-engineered. Oh, no doubt the design works perfectly well in it's original configuration. But, after 25 plus years of being hacked on by, shall we kindly say, less-than-qualified mechanic/owners, well, the system might benefit from some upgrades IMHO. Not to speak of the damnable mess that is a sure bet when removing engines for service and so on if the original configuration is left in place.

So, I've got two ragged out 1997 Speedster project boats including three 717 and one 657x engine in various states of repair on my hands. All have previously been converted to premix and there's been a dog's breakfast of methods used to provide, or not bother to provide lubrication to the crossed-helical, bronze on steel, rotary valve driveshaft gears. My first approach was to put the then-installed engines back into their original configuration. Mess number one. Then, I got into a spate of removing and reinstalling engines as I sorted through the parts pile trying to figure out what was junk and what was a little less so. Every stinking time a big mess and hassle with the aforementioned factory system of lubrication.

Finally I decided enough is enough. I love you Rotax, but your Teutonic logic sometimes runs amuck to my way of thinking. Time to take the bull by the horns, says I. So, I first made a note: Yes, the gears require lubrication - or else. One or two of my engines had been previously converted to the "loop" method of lubrication. This is where a single hose/tube is simply run from the lube fitting on one side of the engine to the fitting on the opposite side. I think this is a satisfactory, first-cut way to do it, but it could stand a little improvement and looks like hell in any case. Also, there's the observed tendency for the owner/maintainer to let the loop run dry. Horrors!

So, I hacked up a prototype for an alternate method of lubrication that appealed to me. During the initial sea trial it "seemed" (famous last words?) to work fine. But, the trial wasn't extensive because the engine crapped out for other reasons early in the day. Still, I am satisfied enough with what I did see that I'm going to refine the construction a little bit and it will be installed on a newly remanufactured engine for the next sea trial. So, I'm going to put my money where my mouth is. Wish me luck.

The attached photos are of the prototype unit. In words, here's what was done and I hope you can see this from the photos. The existing 90 degree ell just below the rotary valve cover was removed and replaced with a 1/4 NPT plug. The 90 degree ell just below the exhaust manifold was rotated 180 degrees so it's outlet faced the PTO side of the engine instead of facing forward. I despise the use of clear PVC for any use around a vehicle. However, this being a prototype, it was used as the vertical "filler tube/sight glass." In operation, one can see if any oil is being consumed and, if so how much. Bear in mind that the vertical tube should only be filled no higher than half its height to allow for lubrication oil expansion due to heat (although I think heat expansion to be probably negligible - better safe than sorry). For the same reason, the vertical tube should be vented. Also, the vent should be filtered and protected somehow from water ingress although I did not do this in the prototype but will in Gen II.

Time will tell and updates thereof can be expected in the Spring at the next sea trial. I would truly like to hear of other alternative examples that you guys have thunk up to solve the same issue. Photos would be nice if you got 'em. It will give us something to do while we're waiting for the temps to warm up a bit.
 

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I guess I don't understand what you are trying to achieve with the single line?
There is a chance with an airlock in the rotary cavity. This risk is removed with the simple "loop" method.
 
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Mine is looped, but I plan on just connecting it to the oil tank just like factory so I can keep the oil light off...and I will still have he light to tell me when I need oil. I haven't decided if I am going to put a valve in it yet. I guess I will just wait and see how much oil seeped into the crankcase this spring and decide then.
 
I guess I don't understand what you are trying to achieve with the single line?
There is a chance with an airlock in the rotary cavity. This risk is removed with the simple "loop" method.
To a degree, I'll admit I'm reinventing the wheel. Even though I do think the original design is over-complicated, there would have been no reason to mess with it because it does appear functional as originally conceived. But, in my case I've acquired two boats, both of which have been badly hacked up by former owners. On one boat, for example, the engines and propulsion gear had been removed and then just thrown in a pile into the engine bay. Worse yet, one of the two engines I later determined was a 657x. which pretty clearly had just been slipped in as a filler to make it look like everything needed was there. The seller's cover story was interesting, but I could clearly see I was getting a dog's breakfast of unassembled parts so I knew exactly what I might be letting myself in for. I wasn't wrong.

So, a little while down the road from acquiring the aforementioned nautical vehicle, the devil made me buy yet another. My objective was to speed the process a bit of getting at least one of these babies on the water. The second boat had both engines bolted in and they were sort of running, but again, the engine bay had been hacked up pretty badly over the years and the port engine was blowing water out of the cylinder head cover (due to, I later found, a distorted cylinder water jacket probably damaged as a result of water freeze.)

So, I've been engaged in a game of shuffling engines and propulsion units in and out trying to evaluate what has good bones and what does not. As I mentioned, I did initially recommission the OEM rotary valve lubrication system as opposed to the "loop tube" that others had installed. But, I finally got sick to death of the invariable oil mess as I was shuttling engines in and out. Also, although others had installed loop tubes, it was poorly done to say the least and in four engines I never found any evidence that that there was actually any appreciable amount of oil in the tubes. By the way, I found two damaged bronze gears out of three engines. The fourth engine hasn't been inspected yet so we'll see.

I should also say that I'm definitely committed to running premix fuel instead of pumped oil on these boats. That being said, I've worked with oil pump systems since the early '70's on early Kawasaki, Bridgestone and Yamaha motorcycles and they haven't changed one iota in all this time as far as I can see. I believe them to be dead reliable and I trust them explicitly except when they are 30 years old and have been ungodly hacked around on by gorillas in guise of mechanics.

By the way, I should admit without further ado that I am relatively new to jet boats and skis and 717 engines. I'm engaged in an on the job self-training project basically.

So, my objectives are as follows:
1. I wanted to put a "zipper" on the rotary valve lube system such that there's little to no oil mess as I juggle engines hither and yon.
2. I sort of liked the idea of being able to glance and see if there's been any oil consumption and or leakage into the crankcase vis a vis the "sight glass" standpipe approach.
3. I inspected the inside of a set of crankcases I had available and confirmed that the lower oil fitting (rotary valve side) is at the absolute bottom of the oil chamber and the upper fitting (exhaust manifold side) is at the absolute top. I don't thimk there's going to be a problem with air leaks. That being said, when one is venturing into the unknown, well, one is venturing into the unknown. :) However, I'm thinking that nothing I can come up with will be worse than the devoid-of-oil loop tubes that some former artisan had so diligently hand crafted.

I'm currently in process of building up an engine with a remanufactured short block. Right or wrong, I've installed my prototype oiler tube on the new engine. It will probably be several months before I can more fully evaluate the wisdom of my ways but I will post results here when they are available. (Can probably type them up as I'm being towed back to port:))
 
To a degree, I'll admit I'm reinventing the wheel. Even though I do think the original design is over-complicated, there would have been no reason to mess with it because it does appear functional as originally conceived. But, in my case I've acquired two boats, both of which have been badly hacked up by former owners. On one boat, for example, the engines and propulsion gear had been removed and then just thrown in a pile into the engine bay. Worse yet, one of the two engines I later determined was a 657x. which pretty clearly had just been slipped in as a filler to make it look like everything needed was there. The seller's cover story was interesting, but I could clearly see I was getting a dog's breakfast of unassembled parts so I knew exactly what I might be letting myself in for. I wasn't wrong.

So, a little while down the road from acquiring the aforementioned nautical vehicle, the devil made me buy yet another. My objective was to speed the process a bit of getting at least one of these babies on the water. The second boat had both engines bolted in and they were sort of running, but again, the engine bay had been hacked up pretty badly over the years and the port engine was blowing water out of the cylinder head cover (due to, I later found, a distorted cylinder water jacket probably damaged as a result of water freeze.)

So, I've been engaged in a game of shuffling engines and propulsion units in and out trying to evaluate what has good bones and what does not. As I mentioned, I did initially recommission the OEM rotary valve lubrication system as opposed to the "loop tube" that others had installed. But, I finally got sick to death of the invariable oil mess as I was shuttling engines in and out. Also, although others had installed loop tubes, it was poorly done to say the least and in four engines I never found any evidence that that there was actually any appreciable amount of oil in the tubes. By the way, I found two damaged bronze gears out of three engines. The fourth engine hasn't been inspected yet so we'll see.

I should also say that I'm definitely committed to running premix fuel instead of pumped oil on these boats. That being said, I've worked with oil pump systems since the early '70's on early Kawasaki, Bridgestone and Yamaha motorcycles and they haven't changed one iota in all this time as far as I can see. I believe them to be dead reliable and I trust them explicitly except when they are 30 years old and have been ungodly hacked around on by gorillas in guise of mechanics.

By the way, I should admit without further ado that I am relatively new to jet boats and skis and 717 engines. I'm engaged in an on the job self-training project basically.

So, my objectives are as follows:
1. I wanted to put a "zipper" on the rotary valve lube system such that there's little to no oil mess as I juggle engines hither and yon.
2. I sort of liked the idea of being able to glance and see if there's been any oil consumption and or leakage into the crankcase vis a vis the "sight glass" standpipe approach.
3. I inspected the inside of a set of crankcases I had available and confirmed that the lower oil fitting (rotary valve side) is at the absolute bottom of the oil chamber and the upper fitting (exhaust manifold side) is at the absolute top. I don't thimk there's going to be a problem with air leaks. That being said, when one is venturing into the unknown, well, one is venturing into the unknown. :) However, I'm thinking that nothing I can come up with will be worse than the devoid-of-oil loop tubes that some former artisan had so diligently hand crafted.

I'm currently in process of building up an engine with a remanufactured short block. Right or wrong, I've installed my prototype oiler tube on the new engine. It will probably be several months before I can more fully evaluate the wisdom of my ways but I will post results here when they are available. (Can probably type them up as I'm being towed back to port:))
I’m thinking you already know this but you can you can get a pretty good idea of engine health on the bench, pressure test the crankcase, pressure test the inner crank seals, pressure test the cooling system, could take the cylinders off to inspect the crank visually better, measure the ring end gap and measure the bores all on the bench. If I received a machine with the engine already in place I’m definitely going to do some testing while it’s in the bay, mainly just compression test, but if I had an engine that was purchased on its own out of the bay I would do some pressure tests before installing it to help see what I had. I’ve never done it but I’m sure you could test compression with the engine out of the boat as well if the starter was there and the center crank gear is being lubed. I’m thinking you knew this stuff but if not it may save you some effort swapping engines in and out, good luck with the boat. Just on a side note, I wouldn’t waste my time on a single 2 stroke engine in a boat. From what I read it would be way under powered. I have a 98 Challenger with 2 717’s that I’m hoping to someday get the time to put back in the water. my favourite engine because of the simplicity and durability
 
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