Alrght need some help with seadoo gtx

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Seadoogtx2000

Seadoogtx2000

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So my last post was about a month ago, but ive recently came back and beganing to fix the seadoo again. Let me refresh with that has been happening. So i bought the seadoo, working all fine rode it once on water when buying was working perfect. Got it home , been sitting for about a month 1/2 after that, ive started it about 3 times after i bought it, first time i did it was fine, 2nd time it took some time, but there was no beeps. Third time didnt start no beep, just when i pressed the start botton it would make one loud beep. I got a new battery, Now Its cranking very well, but wont start. There is spark, checked both plugs. Checked the compression 125 in each cylinder at cold start. When i checked the spark plugs they were soaked in gasoline, i cleaned them, tried to start again. No start, Spark plugs soaked again. Battery is good. It doesnt do the beeps, thats probly the buzzer. The oil level looks low, could it be from the oil that it doesnt start? What could be the problem, maybe some wiring? There must be sometime i mean it should start but something itsent letting it? Please help.
 
Is the millennium edition carbs., DI, or RFI? In any case the idle out of water should be around 3000rpm., it varies how you set it by intake type.

Lou
 
SeaDooLou said:
Is the millennium edition carbs., DI, or RFI? In any case the idle out of water should be around 3000rpm., it varies how you set it by intake type.

Lou
Click to expand...

Year: 2000
Vehicle Type: 3 seat
Color: Red
Engine: Two-stroke, Twin-Cylinder Rotax(TM) R.A.V.E.(TM) exhaust
Displacement: 951 cc (58.0 cu in)
Bore x Stroke: 88mm x 78.2mm
Compression Ratio: 6.1:1
Carburetion: (2)Mikuni BN 46-42
Ignition: Digital DC-CDI
Transmission: Direct drive, forward/neutral/reverse
Pump: Axial flow, single stage, large hub
Impeller: Stainless steel
Lubrication: Variable rate oil Injection
Battery: 12-volt
Height: 41 in (100 cm)
Length: 124 in (310 cm)
Width: 48 in (120 cm)
Dry Weight: 664 lb (301 kg)
Seating: 1, 2, or 3
Oil Capacity: 1.6 US gal (6.1 L)
Fuel Capacity: 15.0 US gal (57 L)
Storage: 23.4 US gal (89 L)
idk does that help? ..
 
Yea that helps, information overload. It's carburetor-ed. To set the idle there's a set screw, I think it has a "T" head and it's toward the front of the engine. To increase the idle turn the screw clockwise, you can use a piece of 1/4" fuel hose, cut a slit in the end about 1/2", the adjustment is part of the linkage, not the carb. You will need a mirror to see it or you can remove the air box.

Lou
 
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Seadoogtx2000 said:
Also if this helps I just tried to start it to check the RPM its 500. Shouldnt it be like 1400?
Click to expand...

If its not running, how do you know what the idle RPMs are?

Did you ever have the carbs off? Have they ever been rebuilt/cleaned? Sounds like you need to check that your carbs are up to spec and that you have your needles set correctly. Are you pulling the choke while trying to start? If you are pulling it, are you sure it is a choke and not a primer kit that a previous owner may have installed?

Also, regarding your question about oil: Your engine doesn't care if there is oil or not, so the lack of it would not prevent it from starting. All it wants is the right air/fuel mixture. You are the one that wants the oil there so you don't have a blown engine.
 
Left hand hits the starter.Right hand pulls the choke and the right elbow pushes the throttle.
Or get someone to do the throttle while you do the other stuff.
I am not joking.
They need spark fuel AND some air to get going.Your idle being set low wont help so you may need to crack the throttle a little bit.
 
That's exactly the way I do it. Great minds think alike. I think SeaDoo expects you to be a contortionist to be able to start a ski.

Lou
 
They should have a push button choke at the throttle handle.
That's the way I start it too sometimes. I pity a person with short arms.
Yamaha has a choke on the side that will stay out until you push it back in......gee neat "ideaer" don't you think??????
 
No People would leave the choke on as they do on motorbikes.On bikes all you do is pull up down the road.Not in the middle of a shipping channel
 
Could it not start because the airbox Silencer isent on? But it started before without it on. When i come home today ill try to turn up the idle screw, If i turn that up and nothing changed maybe check the carbs? Or something else. I mean it started fine, just started dying over time, first started the it not beeping when i put the lanyard in, then stopped beeping fully, i charged my battery it started to beep again but was still not starting. Came home after school, it waswent beeping anymore, got a new battery no beeps butis cranking very well, just the spark plugs look like they are soaked in like a dark gasoline like looking liquid. Just everything was working well then it slowly started having problems leading to no beeps and no start but cranking..
 
Sorry, I don't remember all the details of your last thread. Do you still have the grey fuel lines?

Lou
 
If it has a fuel select valve turn it to reserve. While we are on that subject do you have gas. Also if the air box is off do you have the screen that goes over the carb openings on. Mine start without it on but some people say it wont start so you might make sure its also on. Causes some kind of vacuum to pull gas. Anywas to keep the choke on you can also pull it all the way get a pair of pliers and open them up and slide the open side side between shaft of choke knob and fiberglass. Kinda wedges the choke lever so you dont have to get crazy with your elbow and hands trying to hit gas.
 
Seadoogtx2000 said:
Could it not start because the airbox Silencer isent on?
Click to expand...

This will definitely cause issue with starting and running correctly. Some skis will run, although rough, with it off, but my one ski (a 947/951 motor) will not start at all with the air box off. It changes the air vacuum pressure from what the ski is set up for and you don't get the correct air/fuel mix.

Put the air box on and see if that helps.
 
You need fuel, air and spark to start. Check for spark first. The engine is cranking so: start by drying out the plugs, choke open and throtle closed. Doesn't start -> choke closed, throtle closed. Doesn't start or even try -> pull the plugs - if they are wet, look to see if the carbs are dumping fuel. If not choke closed, throtle open it should start. If not and plugs are still dry -> your not getting fuel. Come back with specific responses to the above actions.
 
Alright so i put the airbox on, Still doesnt start , cranking still at 500 RMP, spark plugs wet. When i give trottle It like stalls..
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Alright so i put the airbox on, Still doesnt start , cranking still at 500 RPM, spark plugs wet. When i give trottle It like stalls..
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Seadoogtx2000 said:
Alright so i put the airbox on, Still doesnt start , cranking still at 500 RPM, spark plugs wet. When i give trottle It like stalls..
Click to expand...

What does this mean? Did it start and then stall or did it just stop cranking when you gave it throttle. I wouldn't get hung up on your cranking rpm's, you won't get 1400 till it actually starts.

Take one of the wet plugs (away from any gas and wearing glasses) holding with pliers put a lit match to the wet end (safety first) if it doesn't burn then its your gas. Dip the plug in some fresh gas and try it, you will see how it is suppose to be. This will tell you if your gas is good........Do this at your own risk away from flammables ......I have done it before to test gas that is of unknown age. I do not recommend this unless you are completely sure you are performing it in a safe manner.
 
If your gas is bad , then you need to drain your tank and rebuild or clean your carbs......you will most likely have gelled fuel or gummed up parts........
 
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