Actively attempting to remove wear ring - HELP NEEDED!

[Gotrain44]

Just a note I have the Islandia with a 250hp opti and I patched the wear ring and added a Solas impeller. I had it out this weekend and had 4 adults and 2 kids in the boat and 2 on the tube with a full tank of fuel. Felt like we would never plane but eventually did and got her up to 30 mph. Hit a wake from another boat and tube went up about 3ft kids loved it. Only thing I wish I could fix is the spray out the back hits right in the face when tube is directly behind boat

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep... just remove the cable. (LOL) OK... if it was a fresh water boat... or had better maintenance by the prior owner... it would. I swapped out my bucket cable 2 years ago... and it just came apart.

OK... I would put the nut on the cable... but only part way down. Then... get a pipe that will go over it, and contact the nut. Then... beat it with a hammer. (like a hollow punch)


Before putting the parts back together... I would recommend cleaning the parts VERY WELL... and even sand them, until you see bright aluminum. (get rid of all the white) Then, paint them with rustolium professional paint. (in a silver can) It goes on a little thick... but once cured... it's great "Rattle can" paint. It will help neutralize the rust... and protect it from the water. Along with that... use anti-seize on EVERYTHING. AND... replace the anodes !!!! Right now... who knows what they are... but you use Zinc for Salt water, and Magnesium for fresh water.

 

[SeptemberC]

Yep... just remove the cable. (LOL) OK... if it was a fresh water boat... or had better maintenance by the prior owner... it would. I swapped out my bucket cable 2 years ago... and it just came apart.

OK... I would put the nut on the cable... but only part way down. Then... get a pipe that will go over it, and contact the nut. Then... beat it with a hammer. (like a hollow punch)


Before putting the parts back together... I would recommend cleaning the parts VERY WELL... and even sand them, until you see bright aluminum. (get rid of all the white) Then, paint them with rustolium professional paint. (in a silver can) It goes on a little thick... but once cured... it's great "Rattle can" paint. It will help neutralize the rust... and protect it from the water. Along with that... use anti-seize on EVERYTHING. AND... replace the anodes !!!! Right now... who knows what they are... but you use Zinc for Salt water, and Magnesium for fresh water.

Ok. We basically did what you described. I'll attach pics later.

So when we got the wear ring off surprisingly there was no salt corrosion. Nothing like we had seen before with the other parts.

We sanded everything CLEAN but not SUPER BRIGHT & SHINEY. The instructions that came with the wear ring did not say to paint them. Oops!
I came in the house to ask you all another question.... The wear ring has been in the freezer shrinking for easier installation. The cable slid right through the hole LIKE IT SHOULD. The instructions said to put silicone grease on the o-rings of which we did... But it's still REALLY TIGHT going back together. Now I am assuming that's EXACTLY the way it should be but how do we properly get it back together? Wood and a hammer? I do not want to mess up that big o-ring!

 

[Dr Honda]

The new ring SHOULD NOT be tight !!!!!!!!!

I can service my pump, and the parts just slide apart without any real problems. (maybe a little tap) You shouldn't need to chill the parts to make them fit. Sure... heat, or cold is for installing bearings, and things like that... but not the pump, nozzle, ring or stator parts together.

Like I was saying before... when the aluminum decays... it expands. So, I would sand the inside of the pump housing until the parts go together. And then... I would either paint the inside of the pump housing... or I would grease it very well. (that will let the O-rings slide in without damage)

 

[SeptemberC]

The new ring SHOULD NOT be tight !!!!!!!!!

I can service my pump, and the parts just slide apart without any real problems. (maybe a little tap) You shouldn't need to chill the parts to make them fit. Sure... heat, or cold is for installing bearings, and things like that... but not the pump, nozzle, ring or stator parts together.

Like I was saying before... when the aluminum decays... it expands. So, I would sand the inside of the pump housing until the parts go together. And then... I would either paint the inside of the pump housing... or I would grease it very well. (that will let the O-rings slide in without damage)

THIS IS A PERFECT EXAMPLE of why I love this forum!
So... Let me rephrase that. We THOUGHT it was tight. But when I read that we needed to clean it better than what we did and paint it....it popped right off. And slipped right back on. We thought that the inside of the wear ring and the housing were supposed to touch (no gap whatsoever) Like the one was that we removed. But that was corrosion right? After looking at the outside of the housing and wear ring they are mated and touching tight.
We are now cleaning everything and priming it and painting.
Thank you.

 

[SeptemberC]

The new ring SHOULD NOT be tight !!!!!!!!!

I can service my pump, and the parts just slide apart without any real problems. (maybe a little tap)

After this we will be able to also! LOL

Everything is clean, dried, primed and painted. I had a new can of Mercury Primer and a can of Phantom Black paint already! Thanks for that heads up!

I'll be ordering the anodes tomorrow and. . . and. . . A STEERING CABLE! uke: It's really probably a good thing we did all of this work now! The cable separated at the crimp and the insides were rusty. We noticed the heim joint was cracked but I had planned to get that at Fastenal along with that bolt we broke off. But now I have to get a cable too. By the way I had read in another thread to use a 22mm crows foot to remove the backside stop nut for the steering cable but our front and back nuts were 7/8". I had pre-purchased the 22mm so I will return it and get a 7/8" crows foot or will we not need it now?

SO!. . .Before it started raining, again - ugh, I opened the cover up and climbed in the engine compartment and saw the panel (starboard side) that unscrews and provides additional access to the area where the cables run. I knew I'd find everything all neatly strapped together and in corrugated plastic cable protection conduit.

Dr Honda. . .Go ahead and give me your expert instructions for installing a new steering cable and shopping list please . . .

Would you spring for the OEM cable or would the SBT be sufficient? What about the anodes? Those little boogers are expensive. Can I get them somewhere else other than OEM Sea Doo or Mercury?

And . . .I was also thinking about putting the stator back on. The seal looks good and there was no water in it when I drained it but should that seal be replaced while we have it apart? For some reason in my mind I can't figure out how that seals around the drive shaft and doesn't get water in there. (Blonde moment) Or I'm just exhausted from working on this since Friday afternoon! :banghead:

Dr Honda. . .You keeping notes on all of my questions? LOL atriot:

 

[Dr Honda]

......

Dr Honda. . .You keeping notes on all of my questions? LOL atriot:

I'm sure I'll miss something... but I'll try. LOL


There have been a lot of good reports on the SBT cables... so I would be OK with that. I replaced mine with an OEM... but it's just because I got a good deal on it. But, if I need one now... I would order the SBT.

If your stator seal was good... then there really isn't a reason to replace it. Besides... now that you've had it a part... it will be easy to service later if need be.

I would get a proper crows foot. Even though you may not need it at the moment... it's a good tool to have, to service the pump later. (like the big socket for the impeller)


And up to the top post...

The parts aren't press fit. Just close fit. The O-rings are the seals. So... without them... they should basically just slide together.

 

[SeptemberC]

I'm sure I'll miss something... but I'll try. LOL


There have been a lot of good reports on the SBT cables... so I would be OK with that. I replaced mine with an OEM... but it's just because I got a good deal on it. But, if I need one now... I would order the SBT..

Great! I'll try to get one of those today...

You missed telling me exactly how I'm supposed to remove and replace the cable. I can get claustrophobic so I'm trying to go through this procedure in my head! [emoji31]

 

[Dr Honda]

With the pump out... it's pretty easy.

From the pump end.....

1) Pull the cable up out of the hull, so you can take the rubber seal plug off the cable jacket.

2) Cut any of the zip ties you can see holding the cable in the engine section.

3) Tape the cable ends together VERY WELL. They don't have to butted together. Just put them side to side... and wrap tape to make sure they won't come apart.

From the Helm:

4) Sit in the changing room, and disconnect the cable from the steering box.

5) Pull the cable out. If you can get someone to help feed it from the engine side... it will make life easier.

6) Cut the tape, and clean any tape residue from the cable. (sliding parts)

7) Hook up the cable to the steering.

Go back to the transom:

8) Put the rubber plug on the cable, and push it though the hull, and clamp the boot.

9) Zip tie the cable so it doesn't touch anything hot.


Once the pump is back together... hook it up to the nozzle.

You can adjust the stop nuts on either end to get the nozzle straight to the steering wheel.

 

[SeptemberC]

With the pump out... it's pretty easy.

From the pump end.....

That sounds easy enough!

 

[snikwad003]

Heat gun cycle ONE.

Redneck enjineering at its finest. My favorite. We have a saying here that would have applied to the strap it to the truck plan- 4lo and go. Works almost every time, never tried to pull a salty pump with a truck though. Nice work

 

[SeptemberC]

Redneck enjineering at its finest. My favorite. We have a saying here that would have applied to the strap it to the truck plan- 4lo and go. Works almost every time, never tried to pull a salty pump with a truck though. Nice work

Thanks Snik- that's how we roll !! LOL

My hubby teases me by saying .. "That's improper tool usage!" because I use what ever tool I can get my hands on to Get 'er Done!
Butter knife, fingernail file, shoe heel.... We are a sight to see when we work on a project. I could sell tickets!