!997 GTX Engine Water

[Paul Bretz]

Maybe i was just lucky

 

[etemplet]

I will very gingerly approach the removal. Actually the crank currently IN the engine I am not going to reuse. I have a good replacement crank recently shipped and that one will likely be the larger issue. I am a machinist by trade and have equipment at home. We will see what I come up with.

 

[mikidymac]

I never had an issue using the special tool and a little heat on the pto. Sometimes even having a 6ft bar on the pto and no twisting of crankshaft.

Using that much torque on the flywheel holder can also crack the cases.

Safest way is just a block of wood or rope in the rear cylinder.

 

[etemplet]

Gene's tool worked so good on the PTO removal no heat was even needed and the crank was not even in the engine housing. I should sell this tool. LOL That said.... I don't even know if the engine case is any good.. The fits look pitted to me. I need to see pictures of new casings so I can compare.

On removal of the PTO with the crank still installed in the engine cases, I took precautions and used some heat. The PTO came right off with no issues. It seems I have a good bit of work to do now.

 

[mikidymac]

What is Gene’s tool?

 

[etemplet]

I just designed it today. I will PM you.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

If you have the heads on, you can feed some rope into the spark plug hole to seize that rear cylinder. You can even put a piston in (sans rings) and bolt the cylinder on quickly/temporarily to get the job done.
As for the MAG Flywheel, I take a steering wheel puller, put some tension on the flywheel, then just give it a few taps with a hammer, and it pops right off. I've used a little bit of heat to help a few times, didn't hurt anything. Trick is to tap it on all sides of the puller, not just the same spot. Pretty easy job IMO.

 

[Paul Bretz]

Im also curious about this tool.

 

[etemplet]

things are rarely easy for me. purchased the flywheel puller and still needed heat to get it to pop off.

 

[etemplet]

My machinist skills and experience cause me to suspect this housing as being unusable. I don't like the texture of the bearing surface. Leads me to believe the bearings were moving around in the housing. There are also dents in the upper half of the housing where the bearing locating pin has been contacting the housing. I've been cleaning on these housings for quite a while today even though I believe they will be junk. I will assemble shortly and measure the bearing bores.

The only other thing I can think of is that whoever casts the engine the bearing bores are cast to size. That would account for the ugly finish and it would also be cheaper to manufacture. None of that matters of course, except that the bore sizes are within limits. I don't need a perfect engine but it's gonna be right when I get R did.

Any thoughts on the bores? difficult to tell as I would expect to see parallel lines in the bore where the bearings were moving. I don't see physical signs of wear. Help a brotha out.

 

[mikidymac]

I have never seen a set of cases that had bearing surfaces like that. It looks like someone media blasted them at some point. They should be a smooth machined surface. I wouldn't run those if they were mine.

Also that inner rotary valve bearing is not OEM spec, it should be a shielded bearing not open like the one in your picture.

Someone has been in that engine before.

 

[etemplet]

Alrighty then... I mic-d the bores after assembly of the cases. That doesn't tell the whole story but the bores are smaller than the bearing fits, as they should be. Three fits are exactly the same size and are not "out of round" which is great! The mag bearing fit is smaller than the rest of the fits. 2.831" as opposed to 2.8327" Bearing OK is 2.834ish.... I don't have the measurements in front of me. Allowing for the sealant.... hmmmm....

The fit for the balance shaft bearing is questionable. This all may be overkill and I can't imagine shops going through all of this for a rebuild but... I hope they do.

I ordered another casing from Ebay. I will compare both.

Question.... do I replace the starter or take this one apart and have a look ?

 

[etemplet]

I have never seen a set of cases that had bearing surfaces like that. It looks like someone media blasted them at some point. They should be a smooth machined surface. I wouldn't run those if they were mine.

Also that inner rotary valve bearing is not OEM spec, it should be a shielded bearing not open like the one in your picture.

Someone has been in that engine before.

No doubt someone has been in there. LOL Thank you for telling my that 3 hours work is shot to hell.

I guess it is a good thing I didn't buy and engine from people that want good cores. I'd be up da creek. I look at it like this, I am paying for an education. and honing my skillz. I am better this than electronics. Thanks for the input.

 

[mikidymac]

If it is an OEM starter stamped "ND" of Nipon Denso keep it and install new brushes. THey are available on ebay.
If it is a black chinese knock off throw it in the trash and find a good OEM starter to put new brushes in.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

+1 to rebuild OEM unit. It's a bit tricky to reassemble, but definitely worth it. Make sure you lube up the bendix while you're in there. The starter gear should spin inside the bendix in one direction, but not the other.

 

[Paul Bretz]

Sometimes you can find original seadoo starters on ebay for $20-30. The last one i bought was $25 and inside was clean as brand new. That one is my spare for my spare. Ha. Need to stop buying them. Getting quite a collection of them.

 

[etemplet]

I never would have that I'd be building jet skis. LOL Well much cheaper and more fun than spending several thousands. I'm gonna go ahead and post a picture of the tool I made to pull the PTO. It worked great but I understand people could still have trouble. No heat was needed on the crank that was out of the engine. I held it with one hand and the PTO came right off.

The center measurements for the tapped holes is 3.150" I used 3/8" bolts. I bored the plate out to .010" larger than the PTO spindle size. I wanted it to be fairly snug and maintain position. Made from 1/2" plate and an old impact socket I had in my bin. I machined it down for something previously..... I hope I don't need it again. LOL

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

I guess since this grabs it at such a wide radius, it would give more torque than the typical spline tool that I use. Regardless, I usually don't have issue removing with the spline tool.

 

[etemplet]

I wasn't aware of the spline tool. Whatever works. This is all new to me. At least this won't damage the spline. Seems that anytime I have to take something apart the tools are never strong enough. My luck I suppose.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

I know what you mean. I broke 2 Chinese vices trying to get a prop off my Challenger's 140mm pump. Had to take it to a welding shop where a guy put it into an old US steel vice and apply oxy-acetylene to break it loose.

 

[etemplet]

This one looks a little better. Got it mostly cleaned up and gasket surfaces stoned. "Everybody must get stoned". I'd like to paint the cases. Perhaps after assembly would be better. How do you guys paint prep ??

 

[mikidymac]

Degrease then just rattle can and clear. Nothing fancy and doesn’t have to be high heat or engine paint.

 

[etemplet]

Degrease then just rattle can and clear. Nothing fancy and doesn’t have to be high heat or engine paint.

LOL, I am too anal for that but I will try. A fair amount of paint still on the engine. I want to get all the flaky stuff off before I paint.

 

[mikidymac]

So am I but it turns out great.

That is with the Valspar rattle can from Lowes in Sumptuous Purple and Riviera Dune then Valspar clear.

 

[etemplet]

I have that exact color from the last engine I touched up. Looks great !! Where did you get the purple ??