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'99 Speedster: Oil Tank Sensor, Engine lock, By-a-hair Throttle Cable, expectations?

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I just checked out your pics. Ol jennayyy looks good. That boat looks brand new still. Do you have the snap on cover for the bow seat?
 
Good to know about impellers.

I had wondered myself about the SK. Smaller engine on that one? But drive train should be the same?

WillCo!!
 
yes I do., thanks, yeah HARDLY used in the past several years I'm told. My buddy now wants to buy it from me-after selling his 2004/'05 sportster LOLz...YEAH RIGHT!!!

I think I need to buy a plastic 1' bowl to prop inverted on top of the snap-on, to help channel water from pooling.

I also want to sew a second pole between the two back seats to prop that portion of the tarp up. The main pole between the driver & passenger seat doesn't do the trick, and I'm OCD like that.
 
You need to make sure they have the same hub as yours. The impeller also will probably be different. You may need to send yours someplace like sbt to get swapped out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sea-...ZPersonalQ5fWatercraftQ5fParts#ht_3554wt_1167

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...tZPersonalQ5fWatercraftQ5fParts#ht_500wt_1182 .
Doing this on the phone is a pain.

I don't think I understood clearly. Of I buy one of these two items in auctions listed, do I need to swap anything out/STILL need to figure out if impellers would work from the products bought??? Or are you saying they may not?


My boat does use 140mm but no clue small/large hub.

I thought If I'm buying the entire contraption, it'll just link up to the engine shaft?:(

Other question, any resounding reason why I should consider the one that's a $100more expensive? Worth it for the claimed new parts? I guess that's why?
 
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After more research i have concluded yours has the larger hub. The part no. is 204160055 That same pump came on many skis. So we need to find you one in good shape. Ill look some more and see what I can come up with. IF your impeller looks rough at all, i would just refurbish it.
 

When i originally looked for your cable i thought you had a 98. When i found that today, it came up for the 99. I would think the SK cable should be exactly the same. I would ask if you can return it if it doesnt fit. I bet it does. Kinda odd they dont list if for the 98 though, ts the same boat....


I called today to put the order through, and the guy said it (as you indicated) that it is not *for the '99 Speedster*., only the *SK/LE*.

He brought up two different OEM Part No's which further shot my confidence at ordering this :(.

204170074 '99 SK
Overall Length:120.25 in
Throw Length:4.375 in




204170058 '99 (Can someone confirm this is correct?)
Now to find the cable specs for what my boat actually needs.


Any thoughts?

[EDIT]
Hmm...so I went on http://www.onlinemicrofiche.com., and pulled up the OEM#'s for the '99 SK & the '99 Speedster (no initials)...and they gave...the SAME OEM#? 0074.

Where the heck did this guy get 0058 from? What is it for even???

Anyway., I couldn't afford to wait any longer. $40 USPS Priority..OUCH. Oh well. Ballin' outta control here.
 
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so why did his engine shut down when the pump went out, does the engine automatically shutdown if it oveheats?
 
The parts link on this site lets you add it to your cart and doesnt say obsolete. I called Riva for you and they have 3 in stock. 877-748-2926
 
so why did his engine shut down when the pump went out, does the engine automatically shutdown if it oveheats?

The bearings in the pump overheat and lock up and the drive shaft cant turn. Basically feels like a seized motor.
 
The bearings in the pump overheat and lock up and the drive shaft cant turn. Basically feels like a seized motor.

sorry, just trying to understand the whole sequence of events -
so when the pump end of the shaft can't turn due to the seized pump bearings and the engine is still trying to turn it on the PTO end, what happens then? I didn't see anything in there that the driveshaft needed replaced because it snapped or the spleens were worn off.

thanks.
 
OHHHHMAN....

I JUST got off the phone with SBT placing the order for the 0074.

This is FRUSTRATING....WHY does my boat bring up the same OEM???


The OEM# you brought up is for
CABLE RENV.DR. *CABLE-REV.RH. for 1998 Sea-Doo Sport Boats Challenger 1800, 5611/5616
are you getting confused :ack:? I have a '99 Speedster

I did some more digging. OEM part number 204170058 These places list it.
...
where did you do this digging? :(


sorry, just trying to understand the whole sequence of events -
so when the pump end of the shaft can't turn due to the seized pump bearings and the engine is still trying to turn it on the PTO end, what happens then? I didn't see anything in there that the driveshaft needed replaced because it snapped or the spleens were worn off.

thanks.
Oh yeah...it's stripped alright LOL. Dude showed it to me today. I should've taken a photo. Where there are supposed to be gears or whatever you call them...they were stripped. Just a smooth shaft.


I don't know what to do. Call and cancel SBT., or get it anyway?

You know the dealer HERE quoted me 178. @ $154+$30/40 shipping., I may as well get it lcoally., IF it turns out the 0074 is not compatible.

What should I do?? :(
 
The 204170058 is the part you need. The other number does come up as the SK cable. I really dont see how it would be different, but they are 2 different part numbers. I looked it up under 99 Speedtser. It may possibly fit the challenger too, im not sure where you pulled that up. That link I posted where I said I talked to Billy shows it. It is 154 + 20 shipping. That it the parts link on this site up top.
 
WOW...This BITES.


ALL (well...the ? websites) the other parts suppliers who use the onlinemicrofiche database of specs sheets.,
Seadoopartshouse

Show the 0074 FOR BOTH the '99 & '99 SK. ARGH>...

http://www.seadoopartscentral.com & Riva (hmm and these other two) show the different one ending 0058 :(.

SeadooWareHouse <---these guys too
WorldofPowerSports


Thankfully SBT was still open, so I called and snagged the order & requested they put it on hold till I clarify tomorrow., but unless we can get a confirmation that they are cross-compatible parts., the nominal price ($18? premium) to just have my store order it here is worth it, so I'll have them get it $178CDN. Unless I can get the '0074' @ $40 savings., then I'll order it State-side.

Riva was closed., I'll call them tomorrow morning and figure out if they're compatible or not.

So annoyed., lol.
 
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So....

You won't believe it. Turns out I have a '98??? WTF. When I went to pick up JennnNAYYYYYY., I mentioned it to the guy and so we looked at the HIN....wouldn't you believe it? 98!!!

So all along I have a 98 Speedster.....How would I figure out if it's the SK or what? LOL?? DOH!!!

Anyway., Paul dropped off the throttle cables at the courier for me. Price difference for US vice (CDN sourced) Drive Cable was nominal, so I just had the Dealer order it. Drive Shaft (Err., Jet pump shaft which was stripped) needed to be bought new., Rebuild kit., Shop rates for labour, new cone, & Installation. Checked the other Jet Pump., said I didn't need anything but new oil which I had myself (Previous owner had a dozen (now 10 remain) BRP Synthetic Jet Pump containers & a bunch of spark plugs lol).

Took the boat out for a spin., fwd/rev stick OOOOOOOOOOZED in and out. SO BEAUTIFUL. The Left Throttle cable (how ironic) is now too smooth, and WON'T stay in position (it slides back down to 0). It somehow sticks at full throttle...except after 15mins or so, it just released and dropped to zero. I'm assuming that's an adjustment thing?

I did notice that the Left Engine Rev gauge indicates a starting lower rev than the left one., For the most part., when wide open, they do hover at the mid 7/8 marks. There was a time or two when I opened the throttle and the left engine stayed around 5000...., but then I slowed all the way down and wide open again, to see it glide up where it shouldbe?

Importantly., they both start on the first push., Excellent!

This overhaul cost me a pretty penny, and considering the time constraints I think I did Oh-Kayyyy. Was away for work all week, so was extremely happy to learn it was ready for 4pm today. Took our supper in a picnic basket and headed out to a private beach for a picnic. Just blown away.

159.jpg


If only I could do this work myself :(.

Thank you SO MUCH to the contributors (mainly Foster130) who helped guide me.

See other thread for my next little task.
 
lol nice pic.

The throttle moving back to neutral is easy fix. All you need is to get to cable underneath shifter plate. Then tighten a screw...

So the pump housing were good. It just needed new shaft??

At least she's up and running. Now you have to keep it that way.
 
The housing was good yes. I don't know what refinishing he had to do for whatever that JP shaft connects to., but otherwise-yes, rebuild bearings/seals., and good otherwise. The cone was cracked (leaked oil., caused catastrophic seizing right?), so new cone.

Shoot., I forgot to ask him if he cleaned up the impeller at all.
 
Welcome to the forum :) The crack could be from a failed seal that allowed water to build up and freeze over the winter. However it happened, the previous owner should have caught it during regular maintenance and your boat should have never failed. I'm sure you've already changed the oil in the other pump because of that. Didn't read everything because I just wanted to say hi, and there is a whole bunch to read, to catch all the way up on everything. :)

:cheers:
Ernest
 
Yes, absolutely, I asked the shop to open it up and regardless, put in a fresh container of oil in the other cone.

Thank you!
 
The SK was only in 99. It also had 85hp engines. And OCD is correct on the cable. Lift the plate around the shifter and the whole assembly comes up. There is a screw on the side to tighten them. You should see 7200 rpm's on both.
 
Hey RFoster.If you you want to go boating again.you'd better put a clamp on the end of it.Or put a small rock in your shoe.It'll make you limp
 
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