99 speedster oil pump problem

[myboatsbroke]

Hi guys

I have a 99 speedster twin 787 rotax engines.

Now I have a problem with the oil pump on the drivers side. Its leaking off of the spout which the oil feed hose clamps to. Its broken from its position and is not repairable I dont think.

Now as we all know they are a bloddy nightmare to get to plus I am unsure if the bolts will break if I try to get them out.

So this is my question..............

Can I leave the pumps on both engines but empty the oil tank so nothing at all is in there (no leaks) and pre mix all my fuel instead.

Seems a easier way of doing it instead of taking engine out ect ect

Anyone got some answers

Thanks guys

Jon

 

[Dr Honda]

So... what's better.....


dealing with a couple broken bolts... or burnt up engines?


Ok... I know that's a little "Point blank"... but it's the truth. On the 800 engine... you can't remove the oil system, since the rotary valve gears need an oil bath. YES... you can go pre-mix, if you want... but you need to leave the tank hooked up the the RV gears, and a little oil in it.


But... even if you go Pre-mix... you need to remove the pump (it will burn up without oil flowing in it) and plug off the nipples on the manifold.

 

[racerxxx]

I'll start by saying--that sucks.

If you're doing ANY under hatch work removing the hatch is a MUST--if not your just plain crazy. Once you remove the hatch the access is much better. Now, I have removed my pumps and am probably going to put them back on this season. I have been running without them for the last 5 seasons. Here's a small bit of info: If you use XPS-II synthetic oil and continue to do so after switching to pre-mix(I do) your price per fill up with regular gas will be OVER $200 per tank. Using the injections is much cheaper. Just like DOC said, you need to leave the tank hooked up for the rotary valve shafts.

Also, IF you do switch to pre-mix you MUST remove the magneto housing and remove the oil pump drive--you can't leave it in there. So, right now you're removing two screws to take the oil pump off and putting a new pump back on and bleeding the lines. There are around 9 or 10 screws that hold that cover on and a ground cable, and I'll bet that the cover gets stuck on the alignment dowels and you'll be cursing even more.

If you are going to remove the hatch you need to spray the six bolts that hold the hinges on. Take a pencil and trace around the hinge whee it touches the boat so it makes the installation easier. Even if you don't the alignment is a piece of cake. And before you remove the hatch take a bath towel or something like that and fold it up and slide it in from the side on the back edge of the hatch where the rear handle is. When you open the hatch the towel should sorta wedge in there and when you undo the hinges you won't mess up the gelcoat. Go very slow while removing the 6 screws and keep spraying them, loosen them a bit, then tighten them a bit, and keep doing that so you don't break any. If you can spray them from the underside too. You must work them slowly as they probably are corroded a little bit.

If I haven't conveyed this point yet, GO SLOW and take your time.

 

[Guest_User]

in regards to the hatch. I just removed the cotter pins in the hinge pins and pulled them out... installation is much easier, align the hatch and insert the hinge pins.
reason being is I had my hatch on and off a dozen times to finish the work on our boat...

good luck with the broken oil pump. what Dan says is true, you`ll go thru 1 gallon of oil for every 40 gallons of gas. so it is more pricey going premix, but I also look at it as the internals and carbs will be better protected given the engines are healthy to start with...

I premix for years, no regrets.