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'99 GTX-RFI not starting

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AggieDad

AggieDad

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I purchased this jet ski a year ago and after a few times of it working perfectly I started having issues - it initially started fine and then not wanting to start again - not even trying or clicking. If I let it sit for a bit it would start up again. The battery seemed OK but the voltage rectifier was not putting out enough volts to recharge it, replaced that, but still had issues. I pretty much gave up on it last year and rode my other ski. This year I finally installed a new battery and although I get the red LED to come on when I install the "key" all I get out of the starter is about a half second of crank each time. I even tried jumping the battery in case there wasn't enough cranking amps from a car battery but same issue. My question is, where do I start my troubleshooting? I am an electronic engineer so electrical troubleshooting is my thing, but I am not an engine guy. Starter switch, solenoid, starter, frozen shaft? Any help would be appreciated.
 
Take the spark plugs out and the PTO plastic cover off. You should be able to turn the engine by hand fairly easily. Next try jumping the solenoid with a pair of old pliers... or a screwdriver. I like the pliers better. :) Engine should spin pretty good.

Starters go bad, the brushes get corroded or stuck. Make sure the engine is not the problem. After you get it spinning over I recommend and compression check just to see where you are.

Good Luck !!
 
Is the PTO cover where the plugs go in? Where would I find the solenoid (I assume I can trace the positive battery cable to it)? Instead of turning the engine by hand can I attempt to spin the impeller shaft? Thanks for any help!
 
The PTO cover is at the back end of the engine, it is a plastic shroud that covers the PTO shaft (driveshaft). It's held in place with 2 wingnuts.
The solenoid is in the black ignition box behind that. Yes the starter cable will lead you in there.
 
The engine will be much easier for the starter to spin with the Spark plugs removed and you'll be able to spin the engine by hand with a little effort.
 
Update - I pulled the plugs and pressed the start button and the engine turned over. Lots of oil squirted out of the front plug hole. I let it push a lot out, put the plugs back in, and it started right up and smoked like Cheech and Chong. My question is, what caused this and can I let it run to burn the rest off?
 
etemplet said:
The engine will be much easier for the starter to spin with the Spark plugs removed and you'll be able to spin the engine by hand with a little effort.
Click to expand...
Update - I pulled the plugs and pressed the start button and the engine turned over. Lots of oil squirted out of the front plug hole. I let it push a lot out, put the plugs back in, and it started right up and smoked like Cheech and Chong. My question is, what caused this and can I let it run to burn the rest off?
 
Yes, you defiantly want to burn the rest of it off.

It is typically the inner crank seals going bad and the only real fix is a new rebuilt crankshaft.
If the leak is slow enough where the oil refills the engine over a few days/weeks then some people will install a ball valve on the large 12mm supply line running under the center of the engine, not the 8mm oil injection line.
 
mikidymac said:
Yes, you defiantly want to burn the rest of it off.

It is typically the inner crank seals going bad and the only real fix is a new rebuilt crankshaft.
If the leak is slow enough where the oil refills the engine over a few days/weeks then some people will install a ball valve on the large 12mm supply line running under the center of the engine, not the 8mm oil injection line.
Click to expand...
I'm assuming it's a slow leak since it ran all last year. I guess I can always pull the plugs and blow all of the excess oil out before taking them on the water. After getting it started and blowing the oil out I let it run for about 30 minutes with the water hose hooked up to it and there were no issues.
 
Well, you ruined the driveshaft seal running it on the hose for 30 minutes.

There is no reason to run these on the hose unless you are flushing out the cooling system. Anything over a few minutes and you will burn up the driveshaft seal.
 
AggieDad said:
Update - I pulled the plugs and pressed the start button and the engine turned over. Lots of oil squirted out of the front plug hole. I let it push a lot out, put the plugs back in, and it started right up and smoked like Cheech and Chong. My question is, what caused this and can I let it run to burn the rest off?
Click to expand...
No problem at all... easy cheap fix. Buy a plastic butterfly valve for less than $10 and install it in the line. Open the valve when you ride the ski... If you are riding it everyday like a vacation or something you'll likely not need to close the valve. Close the valve when the ski will sit for week or so. You probably don't have a bad leak. My wife's ski will lock up if hers sits for 10 days.

Glad you found the problem !! Yeeehaaa !! One thing for sure your engine is less likely to loose a bearing with all that extra oil. LOL Never fix that ski unless something else breaks. Good Luck man !!!

Here is what you need. :D Butterfly Valve
 
Good call Blob..,just oull the cover,,if you find oil on the cover,,,that seal is your culprit,,,and lucky you...you don't have to pull the crank!
 
I've done a few by just pulling the shaft out and on everyone I've had the brass gear shear.after a few hours.so I did a shaft installed then pulled the motor and found when trying to line the splines up to the crank the brass was so soft it burred the gear.ever since then I split the cases.and the age of your machine and rotary valve seal is bad crank seals not far behind
 
Poormanracing said:
I've done a few by just pulling the shaft out and on everyone I've had the brass gear shear.after a few hours.so I did a shaft installed then pulled the motor and found when trying to line the splines up to the crank the brass was so soft it burred the gear.ever since then I split the cases.and the age of your machine and rotary valve seal is bad crank seals not far behind
Click to expand...
Hmmmmm.... Interesting.
 
Poormanracing said:
I've done a few by just pulling the shaft out and on everyone I've had the brass gear shear.after a few hours.so I did a shaft installed then pulled the motor and found when trying to line the splines up to the crank the brass was so soft it burred the gear.ever since then I split the cases.and the age of your machine and rotary valve seal is bad crank seals not far behind
Click to expand...

Not uncommon and why it’s really not recommended to pull just the shaft out the rotary cover. That brass gear is soft against the steel crank.
 
mikidymac said:
Not uncommon and why it’s really not recommended to pull just the shaft out the rotary cover. That brass gear is soft against the steel crank.
Click to expand...
And when they shear they make a mess.the brass takes out the inner crank seals so then you need a crank.so when they say you don't have to split the cases to do it.i wouldnt
 
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