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98 sportster 1800

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Albysure

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On the drive shaft were the carbon seal is located I have one spot to put the c then two more about a inch away. Are these for the carbon seal to or the rubber washers. I just rebuilt my pumps from pto to the cone. The first day out ran great all day, planed out in 3 seconds now it takes some time and revs very high
 
Rubber washers?


Some driveshafts have multiple C-clips spots. If you are having some cavitation... move to the next clip spot, and it should take care of it. (Assuming the pump is sealed)
 
Sealed? Would this be we're the pump bolts to boat? If so I didn't put anything there. When I took it off nothing was there. But I do have a small drip from the carbon seal. The rubber washers are in the part that pushes against the carbon seal. Also do you a carb for this boat?
 
Sealed? Would this be we're the pump bolts to boat? If so I didn't put anything there. When I took it off nothing was there. But I do have a small drip from the carbon seal. The rubber washers are in the part that pushes against the carbon seal. Also do you a carb for this boat?
are you talking about the O rings inside the Floating ring?

was there a neoprene seal between the pump and shoe?

carbon seals can drip... what is the condition of the carbon seal and bellows, is there the correct tension on the bellows?
 
Yea the floating ring.... And I just installed all new carbon ring set, bellows, wear ring and lined my motor with tool.. But there was no neoprene seal. Once I get it to plane it runs strong I hit 50 fast
 
there should be a neoprene seal between the pump and shoe. try that first, then retest...

feel around the carbon seal to see if it is centered on the floating ring. if it is offset, it will also leak water and air...

I`m not certain, but I think the spec is 8mm tension on the bellows, maybe the engine needs to come back a bit.

measure the bellows without any tension on it, then compress the bellows and insert the C clip. let it settle and remeasure to check the difference in measurements, this difference should be no less than 8mm...
 
On your boat... the seal wasn't factory. The face/lip of the wear ring should do the sealing... but sometimes, it doesn't. Adding the seal will take care of any sealing issues.

Seadoo P/N 293200024
 
When I took the pump off and replaced the wear ring the old one did have a lip on it.... Same as the new one...
 
On your boat... the seal wasn't factory. The face/lip of the wear ring should do the sealing... but sometimes, it doesn't. Adding the seal will take care of any sealing issues.

Seadoo P/N 293200024
Good to know Doc!
How do we know what models/year came with these neoprene seals? I do know the used boat I bought had them in there for quite a while. The OEM wear rings have the lip, the SBT delrin wear rings have a machined grove which requires the seal.

I`m running the SBT delrin wear rings and so far so good...
 
Ok I checked everything and even realigned the motor..... It was dead on....but I did notice my impeller clearance is almost as thick as a dime.... To big of a gap right?....when I replaced my wear ring it was basically imbedded into the impeller... So you guys think this shaved down my impeller....plus I'm in Florida were we run theses things all day long in 3 foot of water...so im sure it gets sand blasted....I did have alot of salt crystals behind my wear ring, between the pump housing and wear ring...impeller done?
 
the way to measure the clearance is with a feeler gauge to me more precise.
for some reason I get way less hours out of a wear ring in the boat than my past ski`s... I`ve seen quite a bit of OEM wear rings delam and decided to give the SBT wear rings a try. worse case is they get cav burns in them earlier, but nothing to come apart...
I`m watching them now to see how many hours before replacement...
 
Usually if the wear ring is very tight after you start the engine it will shave it down. The impeller is stonger than the wear ring.I had that issue with the SBT ring on my 95' GTX. The OEMs I put on my boat the same as yours were snug I could spin them by hand to clean them up. My 1800 Sportster also didn't have the neoprene seals I added when I serviced the pumps $5 in not that much for security. The SBT rings might hold up longer in the sand since they don't have that rubber coating on them like the OEMs.

All I could tell you when you buy the new bellows/boot for the seal get the new OEM one that is a bit longer and stonger. It works good, I couldn't pull the boot back myself and seat the ring without a 2nd set of hands installing the ring on the first clip. The aftermarket boots are weak and cheap.You can tell the difference I bought one and tossed it when I seen how weak it was the 15 year old one I took off what stonger. The newer OEM style were like 1/4"-1/2" longer than the older OEM style.
 
Yea I did put new bellows on and they were about a half inch bigger. I could not pull back and hold it to put clip in so i went and got a spring compressor kinda like for lowering or raising your car/truck... Worked great for me...but the clearance from wear ring to impeller is just as thick as 3 business cards or a dime... Wear ring is new only 20 mins on them... I don't have a feeler gage... That's why I'm thinking it could be my impellers.. One pump is stronger then the other but the clearance is smaller...everything else is rebuilt from pto to cone...all new but impellers... Was thinking about just ordering the ones from Sbt$59....any good if that's my issue... Thanks again guys for all the help all the time...remember I'm still new at this.... My ski was brand new so never had to touch till I sold it and bought this..
 
Got my new impellers from Sbt for $59 each... Not bad all..... Test drove this morning and runs great.... So my issue is fixed....basically if you don't have a feeler gage you can use 3 business cards and if it slides through your over the limit..... But you need to check it on each blade in the center of it...
 
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