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98 Speedster jet pump oil change

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casims2000

casims2000

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I just took on the task of changing the jet pump oil. I removed the cone of the port engine first and nothing but water ran out; no oil. That really surprised me because the boat ran fine last year. I noticed there's a crack on the cone where one of the holes for the bolt is located. So I will need a new cone. Not sure what kind of damage has been done, but to the inexperienced eye it looks fine to me.

I started to remove the bolts to the starboard engine and a head to one of the bolts is very rusty and barely there so it's impossible to grip to take off. Any suggestions? By the way, I'm female and do not know alot about tools and what I could use to get this bolt out.

Can the cones be purchased still and if so, where? Are they extrememly expensive?

I need help please. What a disappointment as I was getting the boat ready for the lake today.
 
You are going to need to rebuild the pump that had the cone filled with water. The bearing are going to be shot. Sears has different easy out tools that should work on the other bolt. If it was me, I would get a complete good pump used and then use parts from all 3 to make 2 good ones. You can get me on eBay for 100 to 200 bucks or a few members here sell them.
 
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RFoster130 said:
You are going to need to rebuild the pump that had the cone filled with water. The bearing are going to be shot. Sears has different easy out tools that should work on the other bolt. If it was me, I would get a complete good pump used and then use parts from all 3 to make 2 good ones. You can get me on eBay for about 100 bucks or a few members here sell them.
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Thanks for the reply. I'm going to need wear rings too. Where would I find those?
 
RFoster130 said:
You are going to need to rebuild the pump that had the cone filled with water. The bearing are going to be shot. Sears has different easy out tools that should work on the other bolt. If it was me, I would get a complete good pump used and then use parts from all 3 to make 2 good ones. You can get me on eBay for about 100 bucks or a few members here sell them.
Click to expand...

While looking at the diagram of the breakdown of the pump assembly, is it possible to just replace the bearing instead of rebuilding the entire pump?
 
The kit to rebuild the pump includes new bearing, washers and the seal. Its like $90. Since it has water in it, i would replace the impeller shaft which is another $75. Then you need to be able to press the bearings in. Without the proper tools, it can be damaged or not seal up properly. Some hillbilly mechanics use home made methods to press it in, but i think its a bad idea. There are guys on here who can rebuild it for you. But by the time you pay for the parts and the shipping, i still think it would be cheaper to just buy a whole unit and swap it out. That way you can use some of your extra parts to fix the other one with the bad bolt.
 
RFoster130 said:
The kit to rebuild the pump includes new bearing, washers and the seal. Its like $90. Since it has water in it, i would replace the impeller shaft which is another $75. Then you need to be able to press the bearings in. Without the proper tools, it can be damaged or not seal up properly. Some hillbilly mechanics use home made methods to press it in, but i think its a bad idea. There are guys on here who can rebuild it for you. But by the time you pay for the parts and the shipping, i still think it would be cheaper to just buy a whole unit and swap it out. That way you can use some of your extra parts to fix the other one with the bad bolt.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I'm getting ready to take it to a Seadoo mechanic so that he can remove the impellers and assess the damage. I'll post the results.
 
What happened to help on this place.!!! Here is a lady that needed help and will end up going to a dealer!!!!All she did was check the cones.Stop being so bloody pessimistic and give the lady good advice.It is a simple fix!!!
 
Replace the oring.Refill with oil..Run it once or twice,recheck the oil.No water.No problem.The stuck bolt.Get a guy.About 20 dollars.
 
crisso said:
What happened to help on this place.!!! Here is a lady that needed help and will end up going to a dealer!!!!All she did was check the cones.Stop being so bloody pessimistic and give the lady good advice.It is a simple fix!!!
Click to expand...

I gave her my advice.
 
casims2000 said:
Thanks.

I'm getting ready to take it to a Seadoo mechanic so that he can remove the impellers and assess the damage. I'll post the results.
Click to expand...

I'm hoping you are taking it to a private mechanic and not a dealer. Its really easy to do yourself with basic mechanical skills and the info you find here. IF you had the skills to try to change your own pump oil, i bet you could figure it out.
 
crisso said:
What happened to help on this place.!!! Here is a lady that needed help and will end up going to a dealer!!!!All she did was check the cones.Stop being so bloody pessimistic and give the lady good advice.It is a simple fix!!!
Click to expand...

Thanks Crisso! I was a little discouraged after posting as I was in the middle of tearing down the pumps and needed answers quick. I'm a member of an unrelated forum and have been for years so I know what it's like to see newbies posting the same questions that's been asked a million times, but I think we forget that we were once newbies too. When you need info quick, it's difficult to sit down and search and read through many posts. It's actually frustrating. It took quite a while for me just to find the "how to" post for changing the jet pump oil and I had read it before so I knew it existed.

I took the pumps to a Seadoo mechanic and he was kind enough to remove the impellers and assess the damage for free. The starboard pump was fine. The port pump had rust, but he said all I needed to replace is the thrust bearing and washer. They look fine, but I think he's playing it safe. My husband thinks it's not a good idea for water to ever come in contact with bearings so he's hesitant to reuse. I'll do as you suggested and as the mechanic suggested which is to replace the o-rings, double lips seals, clean with PB Blaster, refill with oil and replace the cone. The shaft is also fine. My husband was able to drill the bolt head off and remove the cone. He then used pliers to remove the bolt once the cone was off. When I started this task, my husband wasn't home and had no idea I had decided to tackle the oil change myself in case any of you were curious why I just didn't ask him first. Thanks so much for your help and yours too RF Foster. Oh by the way, when the impeller was removed on the pump that had water, there was fishing line wrapped around the shaft. Probably damaged the seal and allowed water to enter. Probably a good reason to check the pumps each season. It's definitely not a difficult process.
 
Don't forget to pressure test each pump after reassembly to make sure everything is sealed up. I too am in the process of changing the oil and replacing the wear rings in both my pumps. I have found allot of useful info on this site from how to build a pressure tester to freezing the new wear rings making them easier to put in.
 
speedster98 said:
Don't forget to pressure test each pump after reassembly to make sure everything is sealed up. I too am in the process of changing the oil and replacing the wear rings in both my pumps. I have found allot of useful info on this site from how to build a pressure tester to freezing the new wear rings making them easier to put in.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!! I'll search for the thread that covers building a pressure tester.
 
I have purchased new bearings, o-rings, shaft boots, impeller cover, and Doc Honda's tools to press the bearings out and in. However, the Seadoo dealer I bought all the parts from said he would give me a new style shaft boot to use instead of the old style. This new style is pyramidal and I can't understand how it would work as the driveshaft is larger in diameter than the hole. Do you think this guy had any idea what he was talking about? I will call him and have him order new boots. Such a waste of time as I've already waited 2 weeks so I can finish this up and now I have to wait for parts again.
 
Can someone please help. We have the pumps back together and did a pressure test, but they're not holding pressure. What product should be used when pressing the seal in? We're assuming that's where the leak is coming from. The manual shows to use Loctite 518 around the seal before pressing it in. What have you used? We don't have Loctite 518. Can't find it in the store. Found it online, but would have to order it.
 
casims2000 said:
Also on an unrelated topic, there is what appears to be 2-stroke oil in the floor compartment. Where could this be coming from? I don't see any leaks or see oil dripping.
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Follow the oil line up to the bottom of the oil tank and see if it is damp with oil, the grommets in the bottom of the tanks tend to shrink with age and seep a bit of oil. If that is clean, you could have a leak at the bottom of the motor where the oil tank supplies oil to lubricate the rotary valve. There should be two lines going to the crankcase, and one that goes to a filter and then to the oil pump on the magneto cover on the from of the engine. It may be slightly different routing between the tank and engines in your boat since its twin engine with probably one oil tank.
 
Might be a silly question, but can I tow the boat without the pumps in it? The drive shafts, I think that's what they are, are still extending out the back.
 
Not very far, you'll have two large hole in the transom of the boat. Do you mean tow in the water or tow on a trailer, I might have misunderstood what you asked.

Lou
 
LouDoo said:
Not very far, you'll have two large hole in the transom of the boat. Do you mean tow in the water or tow on a trailer, I might have misunderstood what you asked.

Lou
Click to expand...


Tow on a trailer. I took it into town to the car wash. Figured I'd get it clean while waiting on the pumps to get finished. I put bungeys on the shafts to keep them from bouncing. Hope that was ok.
 
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