98 GSX limited impeller noise or some sort of rattle at idle from rear of ski...?

[Texwing]

Thanks for all the help. Just got this GSX from a close friend who bought it new, its in amazing condition-like new. 85 hours on it. He about gave it to me. MY Buddy was not a mechanic, and the last 4 years has been a tragedy of trying to keep it running, rip off dealers, and so forth. New engine (we think) from dealer for $2200 or so, i Have the receipt.

After he got the ski back from the dealer with the fresh engine, my friend says that the rattle started. He says the dealer upon delivery, revved the engine into the stratosphere, I guess to show him how well it ran. In any case this big rattle at idle-sounds like the muffler or engine whacking something as it bounces around at idle-disappears with acceleration, ski then runs great.

So, in the lake with two us holding onto it at idle, i messed with it, found nothing loose or that i could suspect was making the noise, in face it sounded like it was in the pump or housing. Sound was not a squeal, or grind, or bad bearing sound, but a rattle, but thats maybe common?

Sorry for the long post, but the background of "noise started after return from dealer for new engine" seemed important. Any ideas what to look for before tearing into it? Do pumps fail in 85 hours? This one was truly babied. thanks to all that have helped.

 

[mikidymac]

Out of the water all Seadoo's have a metallic rattle from the rear. It is just the driveshaft and impeller splines and is perfectly normal.
In the water they have a clunk at idle that is just part of the pump bearing design. About your year they put a spring and pusher in the pump cone to help the clunking but it doesn't eliminate it. Again perfectly normal. If your idle is set too low it will make it worse. Idle should be 1,400 in the water.

 

[Triorieel]

What is your idle? I have 3 gtx ltd's now and they all came at really low idle (950,950,1050). The ones running at 950 left on heir own would stall and they all had a bit of rattle. A light touch on the throttle and the rattle goes away. This rattle is normal. The manual says the rpm should be 1500rpm, experienced people suggest 1400rpm. I like to run mine roughly at 1200rpm. When they have a good run, they sometimes peak at roughly 1280.

In short, is your rpm low and does it go away at 1500rpm? If so, thats normal and your rpm adjustment is low. Otherwise, start finding that rattle before it turns into a thud.

If you think it's from the jet pump and it's not an idle problem, then you may have to take it off and see how much play the impeller has.

 

[dieselndoo]

Not all seadoos have rattles(believe 01-up). They came with an anti rattle kit, which you can buy from OSDParts. Make sure your pump as fresh gear oil and either deal with the noise or order the new cone rattle kit. It's a nice piece

 

[Texwing]

Well, ok will check idle rpm, the rattle is noticeable in the water at idle as well,but rpm may be low. however we just pulled it off the lake for a no start- it would click but not turn over. Back on the trailer,i started fooling with it and in the bilge found a large allen head bolt, about the size that holds the exhaust on the exhaust manifold, but with a half dollar size washer, and a big rubber grommet with a metal sleeve in it? ay idea where that baby came from??

 

[dieselndoo]

One of the exhaust pipe bolts. Probably the one against starboard side of motor...

 

[Texwing]

OK thanks I will look again, it looks important :0)

 

[dieselndoo]

It I.. It'll become a domino effect, breaking the rest of exhaust bolts... The one in question is located just under the head water line

 

[Texwing]

Well, this mission has now turned to starter replacement-I may be able to get one in town, but can't seem to fine any info on changing it-Will I need to pull the big exhaust pipe (silencer) on top and the carbs to even get to the starter, or can i sneak it in from the end?
And yes that is an exhaust bolt, I saw the one just like it, but can't yet see where it goes.

 

[dieselndoo]

Yup, snorkel around the exhaust and under the carbs. There's 2-allens securing starter in place. However, remove the airbox first. The "hoop" at bottom of airbox is what secures to the bracket on the starter

 

[mikidymac]

Not to argue but the anti rattle kit is not an end all be all. If the idle is too low they will still rattle it doesn't hurt anything and is just part of the design of the pumps.

Don't buy an aftermarket starter as they are all crap unless you just have to get it going for the weekend. Typically the brushes go bad and can be replaced for $16 from eBay.

 

[Texwing]

Thanks Guys for the help. I am wondering if the missing exhaust bolt would have caused some noise, but i did find where it goes so will fix that.
-are the starter brushes easy to change out,or not so much? My patience is poor these days.
-Am i expecting the starter to come out easy with bolts removed? I read somewhere it can be a seized struggle.
-Lastly, do you guys pull off that big first section of exhaust that seems to be in the way of everything? To get the carbs off, for instance? It looks like it may be easy to pull, but I may be missing something.

 

[dieselndoo]

Once you've done a few sets, can have them carbs off in 10min...pipe left alone...

 

[Texwing]

Thanks, I rebuilt a kawasaki and polaris ski years ago but the configuration of this seadoo engine is very different, including some new stuff like those rave valves. Do the carbs on these have the integral impulse fuel pump with the thin membranes? there seems to be some type of fuel pump in the tank, and on my last ski I learned a hard lesson on fuel starvation to a 2 stroke engine, dont want to learn that again.

 

[dieselndoo]

Your description of the fuel pump is correct, however, there's no fuel pump..etc within the tank. Just a baffle.. Now, you'll want to eventually upgrade the fuel line. No need to replace the return line or vent, but the ones that deliver fuel

 

[Texwing]

Well happy news all the dreaded gray line (tempo?) is gone after causing lots of trouble to the po friend of mine. Amazingly we found the starter in town, got the old one almost off-of course its stuck and does not want to retract from hole. Any ideas on getting it loose? I am working blind,can't get much of a grip on it...

 

[Triorieel]

Probably something like this. My starter died yesterday (and hopefully thats all) and I have half watched this video in prep for what I myself will have to do in the coming days.

[video=youtube;Il9S-o15k4w]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Il9S-o15k4w[/video]

 

[Texwing]

Well, I got the starter off by reaching back behind it with a thin wood chisel, and gently pried back and forth some and it came out ok. Turns out it was the cheap chinese/taiwan model everyone says not to get, the splines on the end were all bent and twisted, but not a spot of rust that seems to be the source of complaints. I gutted it up and ordered the $139 hi torque SBT starter.

 

[Texwing]

....And I did find a 1/4 inch clear tube in the bottom of the bilge, that runs up to the front port side thru hull fitting, to expel ?? Any idea what this is supposed to be connected to?

 

[Triorieel]

The original and some aftermarket batteries have a vent port that hose connects to.

 

[Texwing]

Wow, thanks that makes perfect sense on where that tube connects, thanks!

 

[mikidymac]

And..... the SBT ones are the same Chinese crap starters. Hopefully you can cancel the order. Minnetonka4me here sells good used OEM starters and can even rebuild them before they ship. Don't buy ANY aftermarket starters.