Thank you one and all for all the help. Finally, the problem with the revs is fixed.
Here is what I did. Went to the local dealer found out the cost of the neutral switch was 74.50. Did not buy.
Went to the house took the switch apart from the housing by removing the two aluminum rivits. Tested the switch separately from the housing ( with the nylon push rod). The switch reacted ok, that is: in the neutral or detent position the circuit read closed or infinite. When I depressed the switch it read open so I knew that the switch itself was ok, the problem must be in the housing and nylon push rod. I removed the push rod from the housing cleaned it and "slightly" expanded the spring. Applied grease to the rod and reassembled to the housing, tested again worked fine. Checked with multimeter readings ok. Because the switch wires had to be cut I reassembed the with insulated butt spices and applied silicone to the ends. I dry tested in place (started engines) no problem full revs.
Hope this helps someone.
Again thanks to all.
Carl
Here is what I did. Went to the local dealer found out the cost of the neutral switch was 74.50. Did not buy.
Went to the house took the switch apart from the housing by removing the two aluminum rivits. Tested the switch separately from the housing ( with the nylon push rod). The switch reacted ok, that is: in the neutral or detent position the circuit read closed or infinite. When I depressed the switch it read open so I knew that the switch itself was ok, the problem must be in the housing and nylon push rod. I removed the push rod from the housing cleaned it and "slightly" expanded the spring. Applied grease to the rod and reassembled to the housing, tested again worked fine. Checked with multimeter readings ok. Because the switch wires had to be cut I reassembed the with insulated butt spices and applied silicone to the ends. I dry tested in place (started engines) no problem full revs.
Hope this helps someone.
Again thanks to all.
Carl
