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97 GTX is it done

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you put the motor back in, didnt you, without bench test'n it? You can fill the lines, then pull plugs, so it dont fire, but while crank'n it, it should "prime" the lines...
 
While it was apart I did turn the pump with oil in the main line and it did pump some oil to the rotory valve. I was wondering if there is away to make sure it supplies the correct amount?
 
line the "notch" marks up, when install'n with the cable. They're small marks, so, but if aligned, and you "primed" it, your good to go.
 
Okay I don't have a block off plate. My question is can I pull the oil pump, take out the plastic shaft, then put the pump back on. Pull the oil lines, cap the feeds to the rotory valve and the main to the pump? Just until I get the block off kit.
 
Okay I don't have a block off plate. My question is can I pull the oil pump, take out the plastic shaft, then put the pump back on. Pull the oil lines, cap the feeds to the rotory valve and the main to the pump? Just until I get the block off kit.

Yes.

Chester
 
Does the motor turn over?If so what is the compression?If not pull the plugs and same alot of Kroil oil or bb blaster and let it sit over night and then try to start it.I have bought a few ski that people thuoght the motor was blown and it just turned out to be hung rings!!!
 
I played with the oil pump some more when I disconnected it and one side does give more oil then the other. Just happens to be the side that was destroyed. So I'm all permix, but I don't think I will want to stay this way. Doing the math I can by a new pump and parts for what it will cost for 1 long weekend at the river.
 
i did they same thing on mine.Then I foundout that in the manuel it tells you to heat the motor before you start taking the motor apart.It helps the loctite break apart.
 
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