97 GSX sputtering, not getting fuel?

[burtshaver2021]

I purchased a 1997 GSX a couple of days ago. 134 hours, 140 and 141 pounds compression. Seen that it had the Tempo fuel lines but I couldn’t wait to get it out on the water especially since these may be the last warm days here in Ontario. I did remove all the old purple oil from the oil reservoir and filled it with XPS oil. First time I took it out It ran fine for about the first 6 or 7 kilometers and then it started sputtering more so when I gave it lots of throttle so today I changed all of the grey Tempo lines which did have the green goo as well as some rust like looking stuff. Also took the filter out of the carburetor and cleaned it. Took it back on the water today and thought I had it fixed, ran great for about 7 or 8 kilometers and then started sputtering again. I’m really thinking it’s a fuel issue, perhaps something to do with the water separator located just back a bit under the hood? Or Would the fuel valve cause this type of problem? I’m going to check the filter in the carb again. As it did run great for 7 or 8 kilometers. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

[burtshaver2021]

I’ve read about a check valve that only allows air into the fuel tank. This sounds like a good possibility with me being able to drive 7 or 8 kilometers before having fuel delivery issues. Can anyone tell me where this check valve is located? And how to change it? Is just beneath the rub rail?

 

[burtshaver2021]

So I checked the fuel/water separator and it had a little bit of sediment on the bottom of the bowl, the o ring was in good condition. I should mention that when I took the gas cap off there was a very big whoosh. I have never heard a whoosh this big and long when removing a fuel cap. I didn’t notice if it was air entering the tank or escaping. I thought it could be the check valve located just in front of and beneath the seat, but I took it off and blew into the white side of the valve and was able to easily blow through it. I did however have the hose off of the fuel tank that comes from the T fitting to the check valve and also goes to the pressure relief valve just beneath the rub rail. I’m going to check/clean t pressure relief valve but it doesn’t make sense to me that it could be the issue? Drives good for 7 or 8 kilometers then sputters. Even if the pressure relief valve were faulty the tank shouldn’t build up pressure while driving? I changed all the Tempo fuel lines except for the vent hoses. Are there any Tempo fuel lines in the tank that should be changed?

 

[burtshaver2021]

I hope I’m not repeating myself here? I already wrote this but now looking back don’t see my reply, I checked the fuel/water separator and it had a little sediment in the bottom of the bowl but nothing that would restrict fuel. Filter and o ring looked fine. Took the check valve out from the front/under seat and blew through the white end and was easily able to blow through it, I did have the line connected with a t fitting to the gas tank off so if there where any restrictions past that line I wouldn’t know? I checked this check valve because when I removed the gas cap there was a long loud whoosh which I’ve never heard like this before. Could it be the pressure relief valve located beneath rub rail? I didn’t figure the gas tank would build up pressure while driving. Also when I changed the tempo fuel lines I changed all except for vent hoses. Wondering if there are any fuel lines inside fuel tank that should’ve changed? Thanks for any advice

 

[burtshaver2021]

Today I took the pressure relief valve out and cleaned it with simple green, then carb cleaner, then with dawn, blew it off with compressed air. Put the compressed air on real low and was able to blow through it, lots of little chunks of dirt in the glass I cleaned it in, put in a glass with the dawn dish soap after the carb cleaner. Took the seadoo out and again thought I had it fixed but after 20 minutes it so started chugging again, couldn’t get it much up past 5200 rpm. I read in another post that it could be the coil? I will check through the manual but is there a test for the coil? Where is it located? If I remember correctly there is no good test for the coil. Only other thing I can think of is, is taking the carburetors apart and doing a good cleaning. I don’t think it’s the fuel system sucking air or it would chug all the time? Also wondering if there’s Tempo fuel lines in the tank that should be changed? Tomorrow might be the last warm day here, weather says 23 for a high after that so probably going to sideline this for a bit and get a few other things done before winter.

 

[burtshaver2021]

After doing a little more research here on seadoo forum I’m now leaning towards the rectifier/voltage regulator for my 97 GSX. I have a 96 GSX that I could take the rectifier off but when I’m looking online for new one it seems the 2 years are not the same part? I’ve also noticed a few threads where people have taken the red wire off and the machine runs great but then went through 2 or 3 new rectifiers, is there something that could be destroying them? Or is it just poor quality parts? Any recommendations on which manufacture to buy a new one from? Any help is greatly appreciated, Thank You

 

[burtshaver2021]

Was looking at the rectifier/regulator and noticed the pins for the black wire were corroded so I cleaned them up with sandpaper and added some dielectric grease to them. Took it out on the water and had the same issue, sputtering especially when coming into throttle at higher rpms. Took the red wire off the rectifier and it made no difference. Does this mean the rectifier is ok? Just a side note, I didn’t know what type of connector was used, it’s a Delphi Packard pin connector and a pin removal tool will come in real handy to remove the pins from this connector. Back to looking at fuel I guess, plan on taking the carbs apart and cleaning them. Any suggestions would be appreciated

 

[burtshaver2021]

So I swapped out an ignition coil from a 96 GSX I have and no difference. Kind of stupid of me to move in the electrical direction seeing how it had the old tempo line and all I did was change them and cleaned only the 1 filter in the carb. Need to check the filter in the other carb, take the carbs apart and clean. If that doesn’t do it, maybe I should put on a new fuel valve? What about the rave valve’s could they need a cleaning and be causing my problems? Again, after a few minutes of driving Rpm’s come down to about 5700. When I first start driving I can get to about 6100 rpm but that’s really short lived. After a few minutes it’s 5700 and sometimes 5400 and a little sputtering. I have some work to do but any feedback from someone with some experience is appreciated

 

[burtshaver2021]

Thanks Popps, will do. Should have done that from the start but got hung up on it running good for a 5 or 6 minutes which led me down the electrical path.

 

[bigJake]

do you still get the whoosh when you open the gas cap? There are 2 check valves, one in front of the seat (which I think is the one that you cleaned) and one on the right side of the hull under the rub rail (beside the hood). One lets air in, the other lets air out. You might try a ride leaving the gas cap loose enough to let air in/out to rule out an air pressure/check valve problem.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Hi Big Jake, I did clean both those valves the air intake to the tank located under the bumper was very easy to blow through. The pressure relief valve was near impossible to blow through before I cleaned it and after but I was able to just stick the end of a blow gun up to it at very low pressure and it seemed to be working fine after cleaning. Just got a Mitty vac 8500V I believe so I will be able to test such things more accurately in the future ( like a kid at christmas). I got in a big rush when I got it to get on the water while it was still warm so I only cleaned the 1 micro filter in the carb. Going to clean the other one and clean the fuel valve selector and the race valves and go from there. Unfortunately cold weather has came now and don’t think I will be back out on the water with it this year. But I’m still super happy about the purchase, tested the compression after having it out and was actually 145 and 145 right on the nose. Really is a big difference between cold and hot. Do appreciate any suggestions but probably won’t know the results now till next spring. On an off topic, would you know how to change my username from BurtShaver2021?

 

[burtshaver2021]

Forgot to mention, after I cleaned the air intake and pressure relief valves I did try and loosen the gas cap, no difference.

 

[bigJake]

Hi Big Jake, I did clean both those valves the air intake to the tank located under the bumper was very easy to blow through. The pressure relief valve was near impossible to blow through before I cleaned it and after but I was able to just stick the end of a blow gun up to it at very low pressure and it seemed to be working fine after cleaning. Just got a Mitty vac 8500V I believe so I will be able to test such things more accurately in the future ( like a kid at christmas). I got in a big rush when I got it to get on the water while it was still warm so I only cleaned the 1 micro filter in the carb. Going to clean the other one and clean the fuel valve selector and the race valves and go from there. Unfortunately cold weather has came now and don’t think I will be back out on the water with it this year. But I’m still super happy about the purchase, tested the compression after having it out and was actually 145 and 145 right on the nose. Really is a big difference between cold and hot. Do appreciate any suggestions but probably won’t know the results now till next spring. On an off topic, would you know how to change my username from BurtShaver2021?

send a message to hfgreg or JoeZ they are the site owners and can help with your username.
First step since you replaced the temp lines is to clean both carbs, I think you said you cleaned one. The filer in the other will be plugged too, this causes you to run lean and could melt a piston, so not more riding until entire fuel system is cleaned. Better to replace the fuel selector valve than clean.

 

[burtshaver2021]

send a message to hfgreg or JoeZ they are the site owners and can help with your username.
First step since you replaced the temp lines is to clean both carbs, I think you said you cleaned one. The filer in the other will be plugged too, this causes you to run lean and could melt a piston, so not more riding until entire fuel system is cleaned. Better to replace the fuel selector valve than clean.

For sure, luckily I don’t think I’ve done any damage to the engine. Not sure how long they leave these threads open for but probably won’t know the results till spring as it fires up great out of the water and even runs good for the first 5 or so minutes. Who knows though maybe curiosity will get the best of me and I will go out. Thanks again

 

[bigJake]

Also, neither of these sound like your problem, but since you just got the ski with 130 hours on it, it might be a good idea to pull the spark plug wires out of the boots and cut 1/4" off the end to assure a good clean connection and put it back in the boot and zip tie. Also this is more for general bogging, I'm always telling people that after trying everything else and pulling my hair out I finally traced a bogging issue to the mesh filter in the water separator. You said there was sediment in there but clean the filter with dawn or super clean if you haven't already. I think the mesh develops a film on it maybe from not being run for a while with gas sitting in it. The telltale is if you fill the filter with water and it doesn't drain out instantly. Clean it and you'll see it no longer holds water. I believe gas molecules are larger that water molecules, so if water isn't going thru very well then neither is gas.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I did cut the ends off the plus wires when I was trying the ignition coil from my 96. Cleaned the fuel/water separator with dawn as well. I really think it’s probably the carbs, hopefully just the other filter. I’m going to check the carb settings too, just in case someone’s been fiddling with them. Put them back to factory settings. I also really think it could be the rave valves. The sputtering really only happens when you open the throttle so I’m thinking those valves may be sticking especially because the previous owner was running some type of purple oil and no doubt was using whatever he could get his hands on.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Anything to watch out for when cleaning the rave valves? I’ve never had them apart before

 

[bigJake]

Anything to watch out for when cleaning the rave valves? I’ve never had them apart before

It's a pretty simple procedure. When you remove the plastic cap on top do it slowly, there is a spring under there that could fly out and you spend an hour looking for. Some just clean them on a wire wheel, Purists say never do that because the raves are aluminum and your wire wheel is likely SS so can wear at the aluminum. If they are really dirty and crusty the simplest way to clean them is to put them in a zip lock bag with a little ammonia and let them sit overnight. The fumes from the ammonia will break the crud down and it will wipe right off. Be careful to note which direction they are facing when you pull them out and be sure to replace facing the same direction. The hardest part is getting the spring retainer back in the groove of the rubber bellows, again be careful to hold this with your finger thru it so it doesn't fly off and get lost

 

[burtshaver2021]

Thank you, I was going to leave this till the spring but I think I’m going to get those rave valves cleaned and micro filter today and see if I can get back out on the water. Be nice to have it figured out before winter comes. Is it mainly the the actual valve ( aluminum spade looking thing) that blocks the exhaust port that I should be cleaning? Or should I clean plastic and rubber parts with Dawn as well? Anything I can use to clean them up instantly? Like carb cleaner or engine degreased? As long as I keep it off rubber parts.

 

[bigJake]

yes you can spray the aluminum guillotine valve with carb cleaner or degreaser, but my experience is if the oil is crusted on, it is a fairly tedious task. That's why if I have the time I just use the overnight ammonia trick. I think it was SeadooSnipe that used to say the best tool to scrub them clean with is a wooden stick. If you're in a hurry, a one time quick run on a wire wheel is probably ok. Just use light pressure I normally just wipe the excess grease off the plastic cap and the rubber bellows with paper towels and call it good.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I think we may have found the problem, there is literally chunks of crude on these

 

[bigJake]

mine looked like that too when i first bought my skis, I don't think the previous owner ever cleaned them. one of mine was actually stuck in the housing it was so gunked up. The raves open up at about 4500 RPM and give you more top end performance. I don't know for sure if they would cause sputtering, that sounds more like a fuel delivery problem or possibly a bad rectifier. Just be sure to clean the carbs before going back out.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Ok, I will clean that other filter first. I’m optimistic

 

[bigJake]

Ok, I will clean that other filter first. I’m optimistic

oh another thought, since you just bought the ski, unless you drained the fuel tank, it could have 2 year old gas in it which won't run well.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Your right there. And I didn’t drain it. I did add about 4 gallons of new fuel. But I’m thinking with the problems only arising at high RPM’s it’s either these valves or starving for fuel. I’ve ridden it for about 3 hours now, It’s just about empty. I will fill it up before I go out.