97 Challenger 1800 on the mends

[fastE]

I am replacing both the engine on this beast after 7 years of learning to work on her. I've learned a lot here and thru trial and error as the previos owner did not care for it at all, left in salt water all the time me thinks.
Anyway I'm replacing all the lines and hoses as well. And I want to make sure it will last a while.
I was going to fix it up and sell it but now I'm half way thru I don't see that happening lol.
I could use some advice one trying to get the color back one the side grab handles that was green. Can they be sanded ? Or maybe some kind of plastic paint?
Also if anyone has an engine alignment tool around the Mobile, AL or Pensacola area could give a brother a hand it would most appreciate

 

[Stevego]

I was told if you heat up the grab handle with a Heat Gun it will turn back to its normal colour. I have not had a chance to try this yet on mine.

 

[fastE]

Yeah I just read that, I may have to try it out on part of it

 

[grinditout]

SEM vinyl die

 

[fastE]

Just got my oil tank in to replace my broken one, I'll be glad to have a clean engine compartment for a change

 

[fastE]

Pretty happy with the way the gel coat is cleaning up

 

[Dannyjd]

I can verify that the heat gun trick works on the grab handles. I did my 1800 a few weeks ago and it was like I was painting them.

 

[grinditout]

How about a trailer?

 

[fastE]

I've got a nice trailer not quite as cool as the one you got tho. I did do a test on the grab handle, I like it a lot I think it will look great when it's done.
I did get the throttle and shifter back together tonight all cleaned and painted

 

[NEM513]

Glad to hear the heat gun worked on the grab handles, I'm also going to give it a try once I put her up for the season. What compound are you using on the gel coat. I was going to try some buff magic or 3m stuff I have before venturing into wet sanding.

 

[fastE]

Well I got to take her for a test and tune today, wow I'm so happy with how it is doing, no cavitation and no hesitation. It is a little hard to start back up warm without letting some air in with the throttle up, I'm thinking idle mixture is little rich , but that rich is a good place to start. Problem I see is the large oil lines keeps the crankcase reservoirs full turned a milky color like it got water in them. Looks same on both engines?

 

[fastE]

Also as I was headed back in I got a beeping alrm like it was overheating, but all seem good. Wondering does the high temp sensors ground out when they get to hot or open up the ckt?

 

[Waterluvr]

Your needles and seats are leaking in the carbs when the motors are shut off, they are 1.5 mm and use 95g springs. Was it a constant tone alarm you heard on the way in? That's one of your temp sender's doing it's job.

You can replicate that tone by simply powering up the MPEM and pulling the connector off the sending unit and grounding it right to the spark plug.

 

[fastE]

No it was beep beep

 

[Waterluvr]

Oh good thats just the low fuel warning, push the fuel warning system button by the wheel to shut it off.

 

[fastE]

Lol oh that's what that button is for. That makes since tho, fuel gage don't work. I don't think the seat is leaking I just went thru the carbs and set pop off pressures and had one leaking, I put a new o ring and it held pressure good. Right now I'm just letting it run rich till I get it broke in good then I'll adjust it and see if it gets better.
I just can't believe how good it pushes the water now, I believe main trbl it had before was no neoprene gaskets

 

[Waterluvr]

I'd put 99% odds on a leaking needle and seat if you have to open the throttle on a warm engine to get it started even if it's tuned pig rich. We have quite a time with that issue here as all the pump gas has ethanol in it these days and it eats the rubber right off the needle and leaves a groove in it.

A ten psi pressure test will confirm that...

 

[fastE]

Thanks, I will definitely keep that in mind