96 Seadoo Sportster 717 Crankcase Leak?

[shendricks25]

So.... I have the motor put back together. We were able to remove the broken ring and I replaced the rings on both pistons. We put it in the water yesterday and it started and ran with no leaking water BUT it did the same thing it was doing prior to replacing the cylinder jug and repairing the tune pipe. My throttle does not engage until the lever is about half way up, then at a speed slightly higher than idle speed, it bogs back down to idle. When we checked the motor, it was very hot to the touch. Ugh - I am back to square one with this thing. Any ideas on what to check next?

 

[shendricks25]

 

[Steelmesh]

So.... I have the motor put back together. We were able to remove the broken ring and I replaced the rings on both pistons. We put it in the water yesterday and it started and ran with no leaking water BUT it did the same thing it was doing prior to replacing the cylinder jug and repairing the tune pipe. My throttle does not engage until the lever is about half way up, then at a speed slightly higher than idle speed, it bogs back down to idle. When we checked the motor, it was very hot to the touch. Ugh - I am back to square one with this thing. Any ideas on what to check next?

Does the tell tale squirt water? It shoots out of the tow line hook at the rear above swim platform. So check that with a garden hose out of the water, remember to pinch off the water line that goes to the transom. Read instructions you can flood the engine. Engine must be running before turning on water flow, and before shutting off water flow.

The bog could be fuel related possibly, running lean. Clogged fuel filter? Clogged up carbs?

The bog could be electronic, such as bad ignition wires/boots/plugs, or a neutral safety switch.

The throttle cable can be adjusted, I did this visually with the air box off, I watch the throttle at the carb and set it so it starts moving the throttle plates at less than an inch of hand throttle travel. Maybe you just have a mis-adjusted or mis-installed throttle cable? The image doesnt look bad, unless one of those brass hex set screw is not tight, so visually make sure both throttle plates move in unison.

 

[shendricks25]

Water did come out of the tell tale when we ran it on the hose. We adjusted the throttle cable at the shifter and on the pilot but it did not change the point in which the butterflys opened in the carb I don't know if I have to bleed the oil injection, fuel hoses, water lines, etc. the clear hose that runs on the tune pipe (bleeder hose?) appears to be dry as it bounces around like it's lacking fluid when running if that makes any sense. I am about in tears right now because of all the time and many days I have invested to be stuck at this point. I have too much money invested at this point to get any kind of return on it. I cannot find anyone to assist me here in Port Huron, MI that won't charge an arm and leg. Also, I just read the manual from start to finish and still feel somewhat confused.

 

[racerxxx]

Did you have the throttle cable off the carbs? If so verify it's back in the groove. It's possible that is's not and it will not give you throttle action like you're describing. If you can run it on the hose that will be a good start, but as steelmesh noted you will need to block the like coming out the transom or, if it's threaded to accept a garden hose, plug the hose on that and leave the cap on the one under the hatch.


Part#24 is what were talking about. The one that comes out the back, put the hose on that one. Start engine, turn on hose, turn off hose, stop engine is the safe way to run the boat on the hose. If it stalls, shut the water off immediately. For a breif---few seconds you can pull the clear bleed line off to verify the water is flowing. If it's not, try and clean that fitting out as it could be blocked.

Lets make sure the cooling is working first.

 

[shendricks25]

I have some good news today - we noticed the cable that controls the oil injection was not tight and somehow had come off from the little pulley (if that makes any sense) Once that was rerouted, it no longer bogs. The problem of the hot cylinder jugs still continues so I didn't keep it in the water after we noticed that. Now if we can just figure out what is causing the cylinders to heat up we will be back on the water hopefully in enough time to still enjoy what's left of summer. By the way, I cannot express enough how wonderful each and every person on these forums have been. You guys are all so willing to help people out and that is such an amazing quality. I checked the water inlet hose and show no blockage. I also looked inside the impeller and grate and pulled out just a few pieces of debris, but nothing big. Would a blockage in one of the hoses cause the cylinder jugs to be hot to the touch?

 

[Lumps]

Yes. The water pickup is in the jet pump. It goes directly from the pump to the water jacket in the engine. If you had junk in the pump chances are you got some in you pick up.

Also since water came out you pee hole when you were on the hose I would propose it's blocked between the pump and the engine. Near the intake. Look at racerxxx's diagram and you will see where you should check

 

[2x2smoke]

any machine that sits unused is prone to mud dauber infestation

does water run out of the jet pump nozzle area when you have it running on the hose with no hoses pinched?

you can disconnect and blow air back through the hose running from the jet pump to see if it is restricted or blocked

 

[shendricks25]

I disconnected the intake water hose and blew into it and there was no resistance. It blew water out of the exhaust just from blowing into it. We backed it into the water on the trailer and disconnected the inlet hose and water came out of it. I did, however remove the grate on the bottom of the boat and found fishing line wrapped around my drive shaft (I think that is what the long rod is that is inside the white plastic casing). It's difficult to get off because it is tightly wrapped and there is a lot. I have a somewhat blurry picture of it. Could this cause any overheating?

 

[2x2smoke]

https://www.seadooforum.com/images/imported/2011/09/x20.jpg.pagespeed.ic.6c2gNssBtw.jpg

 

[Steelmesh]

For the overheating issue, are you saying the beeper produces a constant beep to indicate the overheat issue?

If you can deduce that there is water flowing through the head, then the overheat sensor should be effective (if there is no water flowing, then no heat transfer to the sensor so it wouldnt work effectively).

To test the beeper, you pull off the overheat sensor wire, then ground that wire. The beeper should produce a constant beep. Not sure of how to test the sensor, but I reckon it would involve a pot of boiling water and an ohm meter.

 

[shendricks25]

I don't think our beeper works properly,it was just extremely hot to the touch, but I'm afraid the boat is done, at least for this year. We did a compression test and it read 30 in the cylinder we just replaced and 110 in the other. We pulled the head and it is chewed up and the piston is shot. We pulled out a small piece of what is believed to be the old ring from the head.