'96 Sea Doo XP 800 won’t start - no click or crank, new battery

[jkur10a]

Does your module send power to the relay over the yellow w/red trace wire with the bullet connector end when the start button is pressed and do you have a good ground?

I haven't checked for power over that particular wire when the start button is pressed, so I will check that wire this evening after work. Not sure if this matters, but I will say that I can clearly hear the starter solenoid activate when I press the start button.

 

[Waterluvr]

Well if you can hear it click that's a good sign, I always check and use a meter so you know what voltage the MPEM is sending out.

I have some bad modules I keep around for show and tell that still switch power to the solenoid but only put out 7-10 volts when wired directly to a 13.8V power source, it pays to take a few extra minutes and leave the test light in the box and use a meter to see any voltage drops in module circuits.

 

[1983]

Yep, never owned a testlight, and never will. DVOM so I know what voltage actually is.


Rob

Well if you can hear it click that's a good sign, I always check and use a meter so you know what voltage the MPEM is sending out.

I have some bad modules I keep around for show and tell that still switch power to the solenoid but only put out 7-10 volts when wired directly to a 13.8V power source, it pays to take a few extra minutes and leave the test light in the box and use a meter to see any voltage drops in module circuits.

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

I'm going to keep my eye on this thread. I am having a similar issue on my 1995 XP800, though when I jump the solenoid, I still don't get anything. Two beeps when key is on like normal. I think my problem is the starter itself. I've checked and cleaned all the connectors and added dielectric grease. All fuses are good. I think I have it narrowed down to the starter itself. Does that make sense? Worked last fall, not so much this spring.

yeah if you jump the solenoid and still get nothing, well either it is a cable problem or the starter. my money is on the starter. pull it and check it

 

[Staccato]

Did anyone notice the part where he said the ground wire was attached to the tow hook from the ebox?

My bad - I looked at the cabling wrong. It was this line that goes back to the tow hook (what is this anyway?).

 

[jkur10a]

Well if you can hear it click that's a good sign, I always check and use a meter so you know what voltage the MPEM is sending out.

I have some bad modules I keep around for show and tell that still switch power to the solenoid but only put out 7-10 volts when wired directly to a 13.8V power source, it pays to take a few extra minutes and leave the test light in the box and use a meter to see any voltage drops in module circuits.

I thought that was a good sign, though I'll still check the voltage tonight. I don't have a test light, but I do have a multi-meter, though it's no Fluke meter by any means, but it should do the job.

yeah if you jump the solenoid and still get nothing, well either it is a cable problem or the starter. my money is on the starter. pull it and check it

I'll pull the starter tonight and check after I verify the above. I have somewhat of an extra starter as well in case it is bad. I can pull the one off my XP800 #2, as that ski will not be getting in the water this year. It needs some gel coat repair first. I can borrow it's starter for the time being, assuming it still works! That one ran last fall also when I winterized it. I haven't de-winterized that one since I'm not planning on ridding it this year.

 

[jkur10a]

My bad - I looked at the cabling wrong. It was this line that goes back to the tow hook (what is this anyway?).

That's your tell-tail line. That basically confirms you're getting cooling water throughout the motor as long as water is coming out of it when the ski is running.

 

[Staccato]

There's a 12vdc yellow wire w/red trace on his module that plugs in the harness to the start/stop button, when the button is pressed it sends voltage directly to ground and that short wakes up a semiconductor in the module transistor that powers the 12 vdc yellow w/red trace wire to the solenoid.

Unhook the yellow wire w/red trace to the start/stop switch, and remove the ground and hot wire plug from the solenoid. After you get two beeps use a jumper wire and short the modules yellow w/red trace wire for the start/stop switch and test the solenoid plug for ground and power you should have voltage there if the module is good.

Thanks for this. I understand the first part, but can you further describe the second part? Which solenoid wire is the hot one? And what would work best as a jumper wire? (I don't have anything around - I'll need to go get something.)

[MENTION=76757]Staccato[/MENTION] don't know where you're at in IN but feel free to swing by if close to South Bend or Saint Joseph I bench test MPEM's, no charge for forum members. You'll know exactly what is or isn't wrong with it after I'm done.

Ah, thanks, but I'm in southern IN. I know someone who works on these locally, but just trying to learn / save some dough by troubleshooting the little stuff first. Thanks for the education, by the way. I appreciate everyone's help, but when someone explains the why and how behind a solution, it helps long-term. Teach a man to fish and all that...

 

[Waterluvr]

Thanks for this. I understand the first part, but can you further describe the second part? Which solenoid wire is the hot one? And what would work best as a jumper wire? (I don't have anything around - I'll need to go get something.)

There's only two yellow w/red trace wires in the e-box, if I recall you could have one of two different modules in there with or without the integrated CDI both will have a single wire coming out of the board potting with a bullet connector end that goes hot when the DESS beeps and gives you the thumbs up. That wire sends power to the start button unplug the connector and probe the end of the module wire for 12vdc.

The wire to the relay/solenoid will have either a single bullet connector end or it's going to be pinned in a weather pack connector with a ground wire that plugs directly into the starter solenoid for the module with integrated CDI, if you want to post a picture of the module and wiring in the box I can tell you which it is.

 

[Staccato]

Well, just pulled the MPEM box and checked fuses there - they're all good.

Sounds like [MENTION=69445]jkur10a[/MENTION] and I have a similar issue, but a difference being he hears a click and I don't. Is this significant in figuring out what's wrong?

Also, since it sounds like it may be the starter in my case, I looked at some YouTube starter videos and noticed this in the comments:

Someone in another video said to be sure to check the engine rotation before you tear into the starter. It's very possible a small rock or shell went up into the intake jamming the engine. He was able to rotate the engine and the object fell out and everything worked well. So, before tearing into it, remove the cowl on the bottom of the jetski and rotate the engine with a piece of wood to be sure it's spinning. If it won't spin, the starter is not the issue.

Think this is relevant in my case? If so, can anyone describe what exactly I'd be turning?

 

[Coastiejoe]

I did NOT go back and re-read everything.

In your case, if you are NOT getting any click or noise from the solenoid, it is not being told to activate. So even if there was a rock or something in there, this would not be your issue.

 

[Staccato]

In your case, if you are NOT getting any click or noise from the solenoid, it is not being told to activate. So even if there was a rock or something in there, this would not be your issue.

Yep - no clicks. Thanks.

So, in that case, since the switch tested good and the solenoid is new... still sounds like and MPEM or wiring problem, right? (Assuming my test was good and the replacement solenoid wasn't DOA.)

Any suggestions on where to go from here? (Related, [MENTION=71806]Waterluvr[/MENTION] - I'm uploading some pictures in a second of the solenoid module. Maybe testing something there will shine light on what's going on...)

 

[Staccato]

[MENTION=71806]Waterluvr[/MENTION] - A few pics of the box housing the solenoid (is this what everyone calls the ebox, or is that elsewhere?): http://imgur.com/a/V5Oyf#0

 

[Waterluvr]

[MENTION=71806]Waterluvr[/MENTION] - A few pics of the box housing the solenoid (is this what everyone calls the ebox, or is that elsewhere?): http://imgur.com/a/V5Oyf#0

I added an arrow to your picture at the top of the starter solenoid to show the connector supplied by the yellow w/red trace & black wire, unplug that connection and get your meter set to test on 12vdc.

Measure the voltage right on the battery +&- terminals and make a note of it before proceeding so you can take notice of any voltage drops and make sure the e-box connections are all plugged in.

Place the key on the post, when you get the two beeps probe the pin socket on the connector end for the black wire with the negative lead and the yellow w/red tracer with the red lead and press & hold the start/stop button you should see a reading within 1 volt of whatever static charge the battery has on that connector.

 

[jkur10a]

Well, just pulled the MPEM box and checked fuses there - they're all good.

Sounds like [MENTION=69445]jkur10a[/MENTION] and I have a similar issue, but a difference being he hears a click and I don't. Is this significant in figuring out what's wrong?

Also, since it sounds like it may be the starter in my case, I looked at some YouTube starter videos and noticed this in the comments:


Think this is relevant in my case? If so, can anyone describe what exactly I'd be turning?

Just to give an update. I did end up resolving my no-start issues, it was in fact my starter. When I pulled the starter, I would only get it to spin about 30% of the time when bench testing it directly off a good battery, it would appear there was some sort of direct short in that starter. I need to open up the starter and see what is happening with it. I've never rebuilt one before, but now is as good as anytime to learn! Based on what I'm reading, I don't believe this is your case though unfortunately, as it's a fairly easy fix.

One strange comment though on my ski. After I resolved my no-start issue. Now my "beeper" no longer works. Everything else works just as it should (Gauge lights up, ski starts, etc), however I no longer get the "beep beep" when I put the key on the post. I don't really think the beeper just went bad that fast, because right before I pulled the battery and starter, I confirmed one last time the beeper was working as it should with the key on the post.

[MENTION=76757]Staccato[/MENTION] Sorry to encroach on your thread! I hope [MENTION=71806]Waterluvr[/MENTION] can help get you squared away. I'm going to keep checking this thread for the resolution. Hopefully it's not the MPEM and it's a wire somewhere!

 

[Staccato]

A final update here (because I hate it when discussions like this get abandoned without a resolution)...

I never could figure out what exactly went wrong, so I took it to a friend of a friend who's good with skis. He was perplexed like the rest of us here, and eventually went through each connection going in/out of the the MPEM box and cleaned the ends one by one. This solved it.

So unfortunately, no clear answer except "check your wiring," even if that means taking a few hours to meticulously do something that may or may not work.

Thanks for everyone's help.