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96 GTX Not starting

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Back apart, I notices that the 9 tooth Bendix gear spins both directions. One direction engages the bearing and the other direction the gear pretty much free spins. Is this normal?
 
Back apart, I notices that the 9 tooth Bendix gear spins both directions. One direction engages the bearing and the other direction the gear pretty much free spins. Is this normal?
It should spin freely one direction, and have significant resistance the opposite direction when the motor shaft is locked in place. If it spins easily both ways, the one way bearing is shot or oily, and that is most likely the problem. With mine, the more I cleaned it, the harder it was to force it to turn opposite the free spinning direction. I could still overcome it by hand, but it was enough to get it working reliably.
 
When reassembled, from the rear of the starter If i grab the gear and turn it clockwise it spins pretty freely, just the gear not the bearing, and does not rise up the shaft. If turned counterclockwise the entore assembly turns gear and bearing and climbs the shaft.
I think this matches what you were describing.
Fresh lube and another good cleaning. Also just for good measure disconnected all battery cable connections and took the dremal and wire brush to them instead of just sand paper. So basicly started from scratch. I hope to get the chance to reinstall and test sometime today. I am thinking if it doesnt work this time it may be time to try a new starter.
 
Back in and it at least tried to crankmover this time. But sounded awful. Nice crank for 2-3 seconds then clanky. Then eventuallt back to same spinning i have been getting. Removed plugs and sounds great lol.
Anyway I took a couple of comparison videos , the one where it fails kinda gets the clank, not sure if more to worry about of that is just coming from the failing starter. As smooth as it turns by hand and cranks without the plugs/compression I think the motor should be ok.
I think At this point I am going to call the starter too weak, and order a replacement as was suggested by someone
 
Back in and it at least tried to crankmover this time. But sounded awful. Nice crank for 2-3 seconds then clanky. Then eventuallt back to same spinning i have been getting. Removed plugs and sounds great lol.
Anyway I took a couple of comparison videos , the one where it fails kinda gets the clank, not sure if more to worry about of that is just coming from the failing starter. As smooth as it turns by hand and cranks without the plugs/compression I think the motor should be ok.
I think At this point I am going to call the starter too weak, and order a replacement as was suggested by etemplet

 
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The piece on the starter that gets held in by the clip looks upside down. It should go further than that around the bend clip. The whole thing is a starter issue. The starter gear is not pushing all the way forward hence not engaging the flywheel and is just spinning inside of itself. I ended up rebuilding mine and had the same issue. Had that piece on the end of the starter upside down. Lol!
 
When I pit it back together i got the clip further in than in the picture.it is actually bottomed out inside the collar now. In all the pics and videos i can find the short sectoon of tha color looks to be away from the gear.
Everyone seems to agree its the starter, so planning to order a replacment. I was trying to keep things as cheap as possible till I knew it ran but I have too much time invested in this starter now as it is.
Good thing is I have learned alot about the ski and the starter so far. And at $750 for this ski, a 92 spi, and trailer I can afford to spend some to get it on the water soon lol
 
Also the eBay starters are tempting but the metal they use is NOT steel! I figured it must be aluminum in the eBay starters because they couldn't even handle a single crank before snapping off completely and free spinning. So do yourself a favor and don't use them. I ended up just cleaning the crap out of my oem starter and sanding the copper smooth. This was after one bad eBay starter and one bad sbt starter.
 
Yes I have heard stay away from ebay starters and SBT gets mixed reviews. I know it wont be as good as OEM but half what I could find a good rebuilt OEM for. So I decided to give SBT a try. If nothing else I will be able to compare it to the oem and maybe see what I am doing wrong.
I will hold on to my OEM and maybe still find a starter shop to rebuild it better than I tired to do
 
IMHO, and by my own experience, it's the bendix, not the starter. Maybe I missed, but I didn't see where you replaced the bendix. More than once, I have had a bendix go weak but not fully fail - or go intermittant - so as, in your first video [with plugs installed], the starter turns, the bendix engages and very briefly turns the engine over, but in a fraction of a second under load, gives way, retracts, then spins. Not easily discerned by hand-test [ as a hand-induced load was not high enough to cause to slip.] Notice that almost all replacement starters come with a new bendix as well - for good reason. I do not think you can clean or repair a bendix, it is a sealed unit. // you are right about the snap ring being a *real pain* to remove / replace. I have had to deform mine to remove, and "reform" to replace, and massage the ring back over the clip. I do not know of a good tool for that. [btw, your video - nice chirping birds in background..]
 
Nvm I found it the part number by going to the 1997 parts manual. Wow! Over $100 for the bendix assembly OEM. Is it ok to use aftermarket here, or are they weak as well?
 
I have not had any issue with a 3rd party bendix.
I have always purchased 3rd party starters, but *have* had an issue [or two] with the *cheapest* starter.
Attached picture is of a *cheapest* starter I purchased, whose brush wire *detached* from its flange mount [inadequate weld] in less than a season. That was in 2015; I did not record / do not remember the vendor or make.
// Check your new starter, it might help to take the paint off the grounding lug, where ground wire attaches
// Replacing the starter might not have been necessary, but do not regret... They do have a life.
[ that beeing said, keep old starter for spare parts [i.e. circlip] -or, disassemble, and if not too worn, and if bearings are good /have no slop, maybe just replace brushes and keep for spare starter.]
 

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SBT starter arrived today. Upon inspection I could immediately tell the problem was the Bendix gear. I made a couple of videos to show the differences. The gear on the old one turned the opposite direction much too easily and had some front/back play the new one did not have.
Installed and after a few tries the engine started right up.
Wear ring looks good, and everything seems to be moving as I would expect. I think I am ready for a water test, finally!
I plan to keep the OWM starter and eventually buy a Bendix gear for it and keep for a backup.

Thanks for all the help/advice.

 
It is my understanding, and I can't remember where I heard this, that originally Seadoo used Denso starters during that time period. After much surfing and a tech call or 2, I found a Denso supplier. I am kinda dealing with the exact situation described here. Going to try all the advise stated here, but if mine is dead and needs replacement, this link is the only place I could find a Denso starter specific to a 1996 GTX application.
BOMBARDIER 278-000-577 STARTER | Starter Alternator Motor $ 62.83.
I hope this is helpful.
I would like to thank all the members for their advise
 
See, shows you how much a noob knows. Thanks for the correction

When you disassemble them just make sure the gaskets are in good condition and use a little Sealant on the joints. I spend a lot of time doing the starters. I say it is hardly worth it but when I do one I save a lot of cash. :) I took two of these apart and the insides were in great shape, brushes were almost new. All of them need a thorough clean up and corrosion removal outside and some paint. The starter should match the quality of the engine and I like doing jobs "once." :D Good Luck.
 

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