• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

96 GTI Endless Issues

Status
Not open for further replies.
That one has a black wire. Either way it comes with directions. It’s very simple
We t to the lake today. No start again. Battery is brand new. Just clicking and the starter was hot as hell to the touch. May look into replacing the starter and see where that gets me. I’m about to sell for like $500 if I can’t get it running. It’s got a nice trailer to go with it. I’m just getting frustrated.
 
5a33f8840a9899b6e033a7897728fc9b.jpg
Order a rebuild kit like this for the starter if it’s an OEM Denso starter. The ski I’m working on I seemed to have burned up my starter too. Had same problem as yours. I put the shut off valve and I got it to start once and then the starter got hot as Hell and both red and black wires were hot too. Engine isn’t hydrolocked now. I took starter and bench tested it and it will just slowly turn. I’ll rebuild it and I should be back in business and I think you would too
 
I’m working this weekend. So haven’t had any time to get anything else done. Is the starter tough to remove?
 
Have you ever checked compression? What were the numbers? That should have been the first thing you did before you bought it.

One of the biggest reasons skis will start on the trailer fine and not in the water is because of low compression.
 
So I did get the ski to start later this afternoon but about 6-8 ounces of oil came out the exhaust once it started up. The oil stopped coming out, after about 3 minutes of running on the hose. Any suggestions as for what I need to do next?
Hey, my suggestion. I went through this with two 1997 seadoo Gti with the Rotax 720 motor. Your crank seals are gone, best thing to do is pay the 1500 for a full rebuild or less just for the bottom half (crank) to be rebuilt. My seadoo did the same at the end of the season, was spitting oil out of the exhaust. Putting a valve in the oil line won’t do you any good especially if you forget to repopen it, also when your out riding your dumping oil into the lake, your going through it quicker, and you will fowl plugs like crazy. I tried this once and got stranded an hour from shore, even with extra plugs in the glove box. It’s not worth the hassle especially if you get caught dumping oil into the lake. I would find a mechanic. It sucks but I been down the road your on and it doesn’t go well if you don’t get it fixed. The seadoo will also not reach full speed or power with bad crank seals and your rpm’s will bounce all over the place. You may be going full speed for a couple seconds than it will drop to half than three quarters etc, than eventually stall out. It had two full rebuilds done top to bottom with all new seals, bearings, honed cylinders, rebuilt carbs etc for 1500 each by a legit mechanic. Ran them for hours daily all 2021 with zero issues. In 2020 I had the same issues as you and the ski were out of the water every weekend and I was chasing problems like dead batter, no spark no start, fouled plugs, low engine performance, etc. just fix it properly or sell it. The best thing you can do, take my word for it. I live in Ontario Canada and if you happen to live in the same area I can point you to the mechanic if you want, he’s an older guy but very reputable and honest.
 
It’s 3 bolts. Need a long extension for you socket. I removed second half of the exhaust and reached all the bolts easily. I’ve read on forums where some people swear by the shut off valve, but a rebuilt motor is always the best option. I guess it depends on how was your seals are leaking. I’m going to try the shut off valve on mine and if that doesn’t work I have a good bottom end I can swap out.
 
Replaced the fuel selector and remaining fuel lines today. Pulled the old starter off, now struggling to get the new one back on. Very frustrating considering it was sold to me as a water ready ski. I have other things I can be spending my money on, like wedding prep with my fiance. It'll be listed for sale for $750 with the trailer just because I want it gone. Maybe I will go finance some new skis later this year. But as for fixing this one, I'm done with it.
 
What I did and it made things much easier was pull the second part of the exhaust. The cone portion. Just some hose clamps. Move it out of the way and you can access everything much easier. I feel your pain.
 
I’m in NC126B8CAE-E0D4-44C4-A454-7FB7F3756264.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • 01AAA9E2-9094-4E24-8280-8E7FA138366A.jpeg
    01AAA9E2-9094-4E24-8280-8E7FA138366A.jpeg
    714.4 KB · Views: 9
  • 094CD218-5D2B-4F4C-AB62-6D61AA61AA7D.jpeg
    094CD218-5D2B-4F4C-AB62-6D61AA61AA7D.jpeg
    290.6 KB · Views: 11
I have now replaced the starter. Since the replacement the ski will not start. I can turn the motor over by hand so its not locked up. But wehn I try to start, the starter solenoid just clicks. Brand new battery, and brand new starter solenoid, and it still clicks. I checked all the connections on the new starter and they are tight. Still no start. I wish somebody would come get this thing because it is constantly one thing after another. And I am tired of dealing with it. All local shops in my area are at a 2 month lead time to even look at it to try and fix it for me. Not sure what to do.
 
Will it turn over with the spark plugs out?
Will it turn over if you jump the solenoid?
 
Have you ever checked compression? What were the numbers? That should have been the first thing you did before you bought it.

One of the biggest reasons skis will start on the trailer fine and not in the water is because of low compression.
When do you check the compression? In or out of the water? Or does it matter?
 
At the front of the engine, there are two orange plastic posts. Stab your spark plug boots on each of these posts.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top