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951 to 995 Fullbore Rebuild!!!
- Thread starter Icantswim
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Icantswim
Active Member
Thanks brother, and oh do I know it. Luckily the shop owner is a Yamaha guy! I'll take care good of it, and if/when I ever decide to let this thing go, SDForum gets the first crack at it.
Now if I can only get a seat like Matt Braley has...
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Icantswim
Active Member
We are planning on finishing up next wednesday. I have a couple of things that are bothering still that I'm hoping you all can give me some feedback on.
1. We are doing our very best to avoid drilling into the hood by all means, and are strongly considering ditching the stock tach/speedo. For now we are leaning towards a tiny-tach pro using some double sided tape until we have a solid plan. Does anyone have any rec's on a good data monitor that is a bit more visually appealing and marine grade. There are tons of car options but few 2-stroke marine grade that I have seen.
2. Those dang fender washers on the sponsons really annoy me. They look so out of place and mickey moused, are there any better solutions? I cam across some Skunk2 fenderwashers that are more in line of what I would "like" to see, but I am not aware of the exact dimensions required, if these would stand up to salt h20, and force ratings and needs? Skunk2® - Large Fender Washer Kit If thats a bad idea, let me know, I'm asking because I dont.
3. Are twin pipes worth the hassle for a rec ski?
1. We are doing our very best to avoid drilling into the hood by all means, and are strongly considering ditching the stock tach/speedo. For now we are leaning towards a tiny-tach pro using some double sided tape until we have a solid plan. Does anyone have any rec's on a good data monitor that is a bit more visually appealing and marine grade. There are tons of car options but few 2-stroke marine grade that I have seen.
2. Those dang fender washers on the sponsons really annoy me. They look so out of place and mickey moused, are there any better solutions? I cam across some Skunk2 fenderwashers that are more in line of what I would "like" to see, but I am not aware of the exact dimensions required, if these would stand up to salt h20, and force ratings and needs? Skunk2® - Large Fender Washer Kit If thats a bad idea, let me know, I'm asking because I dont.
3. Are twin pipes worth the hassle for a rec ski?
No twin pipes are a hassle. They are for running fast and are no good for cruising.
I'm not familiar with the Skunk2. Here are some specific to skis, probably the same thing.... PWC Aluminum Washer Anodized for Transom Stringer Mounting. 8mm. IJSBA | eBay
I'm not familiar with the Skunk2. Here are some specific to skis, probably the same thing.... PWC Aluminum Washer Anodized for Transom Stringer Mounting. 8mm. IJSBA | eBay
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Icantswim
Active Member
Saw some skis at the shop today that had exactly what I had envisioned. It's a much cleaner and fitted look.
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Icantswim
Active Member
Approaching the final stages of my Project Rumble bee. I have installed a Tiny Tach pro and will be ordering up a Candoo GPS speedo to plug in to the factory analog and ditching the factory track aaltogether. Does anyone have any experience with these?
After that it's the finger throttle, and I think that shall do it. The ski rips like I couldnt imagine handle like it's on rails, it has been a pure joy and is a handful out in the water.
Once everything is all done I'll post final pics/vids and then I'll be off to tackle the WB2. That one will be the surf ski.
After that it's the finger throttle, and I think that shall do it. The ski rips like I couldnt imagine handle like it's on rails, it has been a pure joy and is a handful out in the water.
Once everything is all done I'll post final pics/vids and then I'll be off to tackle the WB2. That one will be the surf ski.
Yes I use Candoo GPS. It's a great product and easy to install. I have almost every kind of finger throttle ever made so feel free to hit me up. I have that carbon fiber rear hatch also.
You better ride that off-brand Yamiturd manufacture's mistake before you put any time and money into it. B1's are the pride and joy of many a serious ski guy out there but not the B2. They are not legal for sport racing so that may part of the problem. A specific job of "surf ski" might be something it can do but I just can't get over it's lack of Seadooness lol.
You better ride that off-brand Yamiturd manufacture's mistake before you put any time and money into it. B1's are the pride and joy of many a serious ski guy out there but not the B2. They are not legal for sport racing so that may part of the problem. A specific job of "surf ski" might be something it can do but I just can't get over it's lack of Seadooness lol.
Icantswim
Active Member
Thanks! I have a Finger throttle but just need to pick up from a friend. Re: CF lid; yep need to build my fun money stash back up and will hit you up. I am considering making my own for the fun of it.
What I dont have is the UMI Start/Stop + VTS brushed aluminum housing. I've found the Vts one but not one with all three (two). I'm am also considering getting rid of the shroud but I cant find any info on what I would do with the choke & dess (side note: I found it absolutely absurd you have to pull the entire choke out the ski to take off shroud, design flaw?). I certainly could go primer but what do most ppl do with the the dess as its mounted in the shroud? Do you have a close up pick of your set up.
Lastly with the my CF hood, it doesnt close all the way with the tray in position due to the rubber seals on both. It's about 1/4 shy of engaging the locking post. Are those post adjustable? I need to move them up, and dont want to cut off the seals.
oh and the WB2. you are absolute right this is more so for my wife/friends than anything else but also something I can beat on in the surf. The xpl is my baby lol
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I had a WB2 a couple years back that was mint and ..... it sucked. It was slow and underpowered. Tops out at 45 mph. They totally suck and are not even fun to turn on like a WB1. I got it and my 96' XP with a trailer all for $500 and even then I couldn't justify keeping the WB2. It really was that bad. Mine was the 1997 with the adjustable trim. I am sure they are dead reliable but just not a good ski even in the surf they are no bueno.
Icantswim
Active Member
Haha oh man well I'm taking it out tomorrow. If it's terrible then I'll drop the 1200 triple into it or pick up that HX hull and start a 951 build. But as I said with my xpl as wicked as it currently is, I think I'll be ok! I'll report back tho and let you know. this is a SD forum so I expected to catch some heat for that lmao.
I don't run any stock steering components but a full billet UMI system. Those have stainless "L" brackets that go under the mounting hardware on either side of the stem to hold the DESS post and the choke cable.
Yes those hood posts are fully adjustable. Grab a 13mm, a 17mm and maybe a 19mm(3/4") wrench and set them where you want them. It's good to have to come down on the hood with some force to get it to click so don't set them up too high.
Yes those hood posts are fully adjustable. Grab a 13mm, a 17mm and maybe a 19mm(3/4") wrench and set them where you want them. It's good to have to come down on the hood with some force to get it to click so don't set them up too high.
snikwad003
Well-Known Member
Keep it up and we will get out the pitch forks and flares
I don't think you will find any forum that has yami B2 love but good luck.
HX hulls, 951 conversions?.... Now that's right up my alley.
HX hulls, 951 conversions?.... Now that's right up my alley.
Icantswim
Active Member
She catches my eye every trip to the shop. I'm just not sure I'm ready for a project of this magnitude right now.
Yessir that's how it starts. Such a "why not" entry price and then.....................
Icantswim
Active Member
So to adjust them, you have to add/remove washers? I think I got them adjusted correctly but I had to steal a washer from the underside. I swapped them back for today's outing as I'll need to get some from the hardware store.
let me know if that's the proper way, if so, there isn't a way to really find tune the height unless I'm doing it wrong.
Icantswim
Active Member
Maybe a silly question, but is there a way to test it you carrier seals are bad? I'm getting some pretty significant cavitation from a standstill and troll. Wear ring is good, new prop, new grate, nothing blocked, everything is sealed. I'm suspected I'm sucking air from the hul through the seals... Would filling the rear section with water prove this?
If it's the spot that is drawing air in then you should see water dripping from it. You can keep the back pinned to the trailer and back it into the water a little bit while you watch. If a ramp is not close you could use the hose but slide the ski back on the trailer and tilt it back so the water is not coming up over your VTS module.
Icantswim
Active Member
Thank you (again). I'll give it a try tonight on the trailer. So IF it is leaking say from the most rearward carrier, is it worth replacing the whole carreir/seal or just the seal bearing? Also is there a way to visually look at the assembly to see if it is any good? I have two preowned spares (at the cost of a stop gap until a new order arrives) could I inspect them prior to installing? Lastly, I always hit them with a pump of marine grease after each ride, Grease does expel, not much but it does. Is this good or bad....?
Icantswim
Active Member
Filled with h20 yo the point shaft was submerged. I noticed a steady and constant drip almost a stream coming from both lower pump bolts. Nothing from shaft or grate area. 1. would that be enough to cause cavitation?
On second look I think it may be coming from the pump support plate. Is this a PITA to reseal? something tells me yes...
update, going to pull pump and retest lol
On second look I think it may be coming from the pump support plate. Is this a PITA to reseal? something tells me yes...
update, going to pull pump and retest lol
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They are not too bad you just have to pound in something to pry with. It usually takes two huge screwdrivers before you break the rtv. The rtv gives before the plastic or the gelcoat just don't use something with a sharp edge that can dig in to the gelcoat.
Once it's off I use a straight razor and then the slow turn of a wire wheel on a drill(softer not coarse) to get the surfaces clean. Black Ultra or the fast drying version called "The Right Stuff" is what you want and use a liberal amount then wipe off what squishes out.
If you feel that your plate is tweeked there are always cheap ones on ebay. It's the kind of part nobody ever deals with but the guys who part skis.
Once it's off I use a straight razor and then the slow turn of a wire wheel on a drill(softer not coarse) to get the surfaces clean. Black Ultra or the fast drying version called "The Right Stuff" is what you want and use a liberal amount then wipe off what squishes out.
If you feel that your plate is tweeked there are always cheap ones on ebay. It's the kind of part nobody ever deals with but the guys who part skis.
Icantswim
Active Member
ok here is the punp/impeller. they look pretty good to me. However, I noticed that rubber seal was crimped when I removed it, Could that cause cavitation? Is that mendable, or do I ditch it and replace? I then refilled hull with h20 to get a better idea of the leak as it finally clicked that a leak couldnt be between the pump and support, duh! Looks like I have several points where there is a leak, but in terms of severity, how bad is it, and would this cause cavitation from standstill/troll?
Video of leak
Video of leak
That pump seal looks like the issue to me. I'd get a fresh one and then put a thin coat of grease around it so it slides in nice. That would be easier to try before fooling with the pump plate to hull rtv. It does look like it passes quite a bit of water though.
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