951 to 995 Fullbore Rebuild!!!

[Icantswim]

Hey guys, I havent drowned if you were wondering! lol Believe it or not, I just now got confirmation from fullbore online that my motor is complete and shipping tomorrow. WOW its been almost 6 months! Long story short, the shop owner had some trouble with his lead tech and let him go and fell way behind. I wont bash him, but I will say, if you are going to use them get a turnaround time in writing and I'd also caution using them during your riding season. Anyway, i've done loads since ive been waiting, and looking forward to all the headaches of getting it back in the ski and running again. My next step is to get back in touch with the folks at watercraft magic to get the proper needles\seats set-up for the motor. Stay tuned....

 

[Icantswim]

Well finally started the process of putting it all back together (Flywheel, magneto, reeds, etc.) Its taking me longer than I'd prefer but Im also going through step by step slowly to make sure everything is as correct as I can make it. Here are a few pics from this weekend. I was able to drop the motor in by myself with no lifts or anything. Im a big athletic guy (6'1 250) so it was possible but I wouldnt reccomend it unless you are certain you can do it. Make sure you live the ski's opening with some towels to give you a place to rest before the final drop.

The biggest pain so far was attaching the flywheel as I accidentally dropped rope into the cylinders and fishing it out took awhile, this was followed by a missing woodruff key, having wanting to get the motor in place by this weekend, I hit up oreilly's and had to slightly modify one.

The other big issue was the engine alignment. WHAT A PAIN! Looks like a simple job, and honestly I didnt need to check it as it was the exact same motor I sent out, and it was spot on when I did check it, but for piece of mind I did it anyway. I'd be happy if I dont have to do that again.


This week I am receiving my Jetting kit, and will rejet my stock carbs to accomodate the motor. 170/85/2.3N&S/95g. I'm not 100% confident 170 is the bestas it was a toss up between 167/170, but with the motor bored out to 995, and proks I think we'll be okay.

I'm also worried about the oil pump. I did the bench test and got oil to pass through, but as you all know this is so critical. I'll be looking for ways to really prime the motor before I fire it up. Hoping to have her running in the next two weekends.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

why the 98 magneto cover and oil pump? the 99+ was cleaner

 

[Icantswim]

why the 98 magneto cover and oil pump? the 99+ was cleaner

Well it's 98 ski, and to be Honest I don't know anything about the 99 cover lol. this is the original motor from the ski.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

10-4.

 

[jjsinaz]

" Long story short, the shop owner had some trouble with his lead tech and let him go and fell way behind. I wont bash him, but I will say, if you are going to use them get a turnaround time in writing and I'd also caution using them during your riding season.

Great! My engine has been out there since the beginning of November and that last time I checked with them they are telling me I'm not on the schedule until end of March...WTF!!! I did take advantage of their winter special, but they originally told me mid-February. Well, I guess this explains the delay.

 

[Icantswim]

Great! My engine has been out there since the beginning of November and that last time I checked with them they are telling me I'm not on the schedule until end of March...WTF!!! I did take advantage of their winter special, but they originally told me mid-February. Well, I guess this explains the delay.

Yup, sorry man, I will say that so far I have been pleased with the build (i haven't run it yet mind you), and Dan was very genuine on the phone with me, he was honest and sincere about his current situation, but my god it took a long time! Stay in communication with him, I'm sure he is working his way out of the log-jam and hopefully finds a good tech to assist him. Would I go with him again.....too soon to say, but I think the timeline advertised when I sent mine in was misleading and they kicked the can down the street month after month. I'd be surprised if you see it back by April, but idk this is just my experience. Stay tuned for how it performs once I get it up and running.

 

[Icantswim]

Hey everyone, I've run into my first stump! I've been trying to figure thisnone out for two days and I just can't seem to get a clear answer for the manual/Google. any help is appreciated.

the top first nipple on the exhaust, somehow I've managed to either lose the hose the hose that connects to it, or have erroneously stuck that hose on the lower case. I did a decent job at marking the hoses so I knew where to put them. the only hose that it could be is one that I had zip tied to the negative cable running to the starter. however it just so happened to be the perfect length to attach just above the start to the outermost motor vent nipple, but now I suspect that is for the carb arghhh.

below 1-pisser 2- vent to side meets up with another hose running front to back 3-fuel 4-fuel



so this is the hose I ran to the motor nipple. It originates from a t-type fitting that the Rave valve hose also runs to. here is a pic of that.

This is where that hose originates, I currently have it running under the motor (doesn't seem right) and meets up to that connection. it definitely can run along the top bridge to link up with the exhaust nipple, but again, I had is zipped to the neg battery cable while motor was out.



according to manual....I'm confused AF?!?!?! What's this 3 hole plate? what is a CSI and how does it indicate? And what about the hose? there's no hose in the manual...


any help is greatly appreciated

 

[Icantswim]

FOUND IT! (I think)



Lesson of the day, work from both sides of the ski! the hose was there the whole time, I just couldn't properly see it from the starboard side, duh! but can anyone still confirm the bottom line. I think I have the CSI on the wrong hose as this hose doesn't have one on it AND there are o my 2 holes on the referenced 3-hole plate...

 

[mikidymac]

THe hose connected to the RAVE solenoid is correct. The fitting next to it is the pulse line for the fuel pump.

The one on the pipe goes out the side of the hull as the "pisser". Ignore the reference to a plate, it just pisses out the left side under the rub rail.

I also wouldn't use that battery cable end, those copper ones corrode pretty quick.

I would get the heavy plated marine ones that solder on and still use the marine heat shrink tubing. THese XP's need very good cables and connections because the battery is so far back in the hull. You will get very weak and slow cranking if they are not perfect.

@Minnetonka4me sells some awesome cables that you will not have to replace for another 20 years.

 

[kevinz]

All that work...SBT starter

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

I saw that too... I hear those things don't last

 

[mikidymac]

It will last at least 1 or 2 starts until the shaft shears in half.

 

[racerxxx]

So I had typed up a few different posts since this thread started and never posted them. So here goes. I'm installing a 951 for a friend of a friend. I pulled the engine in early April with a CONFIRMED finish date at the end of May, even paid in full. So.....months later as in the end of October I got the engine. And the season was over. Best of luck guys. Y'all know I build my own but this guy wanted the warranty, he just had to wait for it.

 

[Icantswim]

All that work...SBT starter

Lol I haven't read anything bad about it, but then again I didn't do much research as I didn't think it's a frequent failing part. Let's hope I got lucky, if not, I have a spare so no sweat.

 

[Icantswim]

THe hose connected to the RAVE solenoid is correct. The fitting next to it is the pulse line for the fuel pump.

The one on the pipe goes out the side of the hull as the "pisser". Ignore the reference to a plate, it just pisses out the left side under the rub rail.

I also wouldn't use that battery cable end, those copper ones corrode pretty quick.

I would get the heavy plated marine ones that solder on and still use the marine heat shrink tubing. THese XP's need very good cables and connections because the battery is so far back in the hull. You will get very weak and slow cranking if they are not perfect.

@Minnetonka4me sells some awesome cables that you will not have to replace for another 20 years.

Thank you, seems like good feedback

 

[Icantswim]

Alrighty folks, I got her fully assembled. I primed the air out of the oil lines. At first I was concerned at the flow rate I observed, after doing some deep web research and a quick ref to the manual, I am happy with it. HOWEVER....

After I double, triple, quadruple checked everything (that I know) I finally made the decision to put the plugs in and cross my fingers.

SHE FIRED RIGHT UP!!!!


FOLLOWED BY AN IMMEDIATE RUNAWAY..OMMFG MY HEART DAMN NEAR JUMPED OUT MY CHEST.

Luckily, I've had this happen to me before on a gsx-l I used to own , and learned the hard way on how to resolve. Pulled WOT and killed it.

Now....what in the Sam h-e-l-l. double checked adjusters, idle, looked for any red flags, gasket seals etc. I've found nothing.

Tried it again, fired up, 4 seconds layers, runaway. turned LS to 1 1/4, 1 1/2, 1 3/4 , 2. runaway runaway runaway runaway!!!

Lol have to upload the comical video somehow, maybe a YouTube link, is it possible to embed?

Anyway, the thing is starting right up and does a moderate climb to about 3k, then Falcon9 rockets thru the rpm band. :/ With my older ski it would hang out for a bit then shoot up, then blow up. lol

I did adjust throttle cable today, and I've read that there should be "some" slack, but how much is some? My current adjustment is spot on (I think). not tight, not lose, but just right. Is this incorrect? if so then why?

I also failed (well didnt think i needed to) to fully prime the fuel lines. I read that air in the system could cause a runaway, but I would think after 3 screams through the power band it would've cleared it.

Airleaks. I've read all over that air leaks could be the issue, but how can I find a leak if it shoots straight to redline? As a kid I worked in a tire shop and we would use Spray9 for this purpose on slow leaking tires, but I don't have the time for it without risking damage to the motor (Fyi I did add oil to fuel for break in) but I didn't even have time to turn the water hose on. The motor has yet to run longer than maybe 10 seconds at a time without running away.

Thoughts?

btw I appreciate all the feedback. I never claimed to be a pro, and will certainly make a few goofball mistakes. If you see something say something, we are all here to learn and share and of course hand out the occasional dummy slap!


updated with cable pics.

 

[gsus67]

I have the same thing happen to my 2000 RX. everything check out fine as far as carb adjustments. But I came to find out that the carburetor base gasket was the culprit. Just make sure the all your clamps are up to par. I used the oem clamps on all my fuel lines. I just didn’t trust the regular hose clamps.

 

[mikidymac]

Air leaks are found by pressure testing the engine to 8psi. This should be done on all new engines. You should have done it once you have it together before you install the cabs and exhaust. I think @racerxxx was making the block off plates to pressure test.

 

[Icantswim]

Air leaks are found by pressure testing the engine to 8psi. This should be done on all new engines. You should have done it once you have it together before you install the cabs and exhaust. I think @racerxxx was making the block off plates to pressure test.

Yep read that too, thx!

 

[Icantswim]

Here's the video, I was recording the first start up for my friends with a little bit of celebratory gloat that quickly turned into sheer panic!

 

[Paul Bretz]

3 years ago, i had believe it or not a brand new original 800 engine from seadoo that was from a bombardier plant near me that i installed in my gsx. Did same thing. Went through carbs, lowered pop off and didnt find anything wrong. Come to find out the pto was never installed all the way since engine was sent to their r and d department where they tested hull strength integrity. Tightened the pto the way i install them and been fine ever since. Sounds like massive air leak!

 

[Icantswim]

3 years ago, i had believe it or not a brand new original 800 engine from seadoo that was from a bombardier plant near me that i installed in my gsx. Did same thing. Went through carbs, lowered pop off and didnt find anything wrong. Come to find out the pto was never installed all the way since engine was sent to their r and d department where they tested hull strength integrity. Tightened the pto the way i install them and been fine ever since. Sounds like massive air leak!

That's crazy Paul, goes to show you can't fully trust everything from the fact. Re: Air leak, I know right.... argh. I'll find it...

 

[Icantswim]

I have the same thing happen to my 2000 RX. everything check out fine as far as carb adjustments. But I came to find out that the carburetor base gasket was the culprit. Just make sure the all your clamps are up to par. I used the oem clamps on all my fuel lines. I just didn’t trust the regular hose clamps.

Hey, was it alignment of the gasket if so how far off was it? Also, did you also use a sealant, and if so what type?

 

[gsus67]

It was a different thickness. I used an aftermarket gasket and it wa the wrong one. So I ended up buying the oem gasket from Seadoo. No sealant required. Just make sure the flanges on both sides are clean and use proper bolt torque specs.