951 to 995 Fullbore Rebuild!!!

[Icantswim]

Hi Everyone,


Figured I'd start a thread about my rebuild I'm currently doing. I thought I had made a post on this already but when I came back to look for it, it was gone so I must've not saved it correctly. Long story short I recently blew my original 951 motor in my 1998 XPL and was exploring my options. Everyone from Watercraft Magic, SBT, SES, and a few others. I called each of them up, with exception to SBT and spoke with them to get a better feel on the quality of work and turn around times. I decided that Fullbore Online was the best fit for me, and I elected to go with their very limited Signature Series which bores the 951 to a 995cc and gets beefed up components from the Crank up, or head -down however you look at it.

Anyway I have just pulled my motor and shipped it off. The turn around time is estimated to be about 2 months so while my motor is out I will be addressing little things around my ski as well as fitting a new jetting kit on my carbs. Im currently speaking with Watercraft Magic to see if their standard 951 carb rejet kit to include Prok filters is the most optimal set up for this motor. Fullbore states that the motor should be fine on the stock oem carb settings which means that the standard Watercraft Magic should also be a good fit, but it doesnt hurt to ask.

While I'm waiting for my motor to return I will posting updates on things I am doing to the ski, and hope to get some feedback from you all of the best products, and things I should be doing while I have a open hull.

So far just about everything is stock, all fuel lines have been replaced, tank and pick up and selector have all been removed and cleaned, pump oil changed, shaft has been greased, hull has been wiped cleaned.

Whats broken: Dream-o-met, fuel guage, top lid broke a tab and currently held in place with zip ties I think thats about it

Attack List: Solas 15/20, Ride plate, Intake grate, carb rejet I have been looking at some of the R&D products but Im not certain whats been tried and tested.

 

[Icantswim]

Here is a link to Fullbore Signature series. http://www.fullboreonline.com/rebuilt_seadoo_engine.htm



Full Bore was initially a high performance shop. To be honest we miss it. So we are bringing back some of Dan’s favorites.

So we are reintroducing our Signature series 1000.

Our 1000 SS is a straight forward performance engine rebuild that keeps rock solid reliability, runs on pump (premium 91-93 octane) gas, no difficult carb mods and pulls like hell.

We start with the Sea doo 951 and take it to a 995cc’s. There is no substitute for cc’s. Precision fitted with Wossner forged performance pistons. Of course it goes without saying that the crankshaft is rebuilt to our Platinum specs and fitted with Teflon coated seals. We slightly raise the compression. Increased intake flow and control with Carbon tech reeds. Followed with atomizing (minor porting) the transfer fuel charge and swirl the head to control detonation and flat out increase performance that the average person can enjoy without having to revolve their life around trying to make it work.

It’s simple, it's solid and it rocks!

Every PWC engine rebuild is done one at a time. When we receive your engine for a rebuild it is checked in and tagged and assigned a bin with your name. The engine will stay with the assigned bin until it is completed and returned to you. The engine is disassembled and inspected. We document what appears to of been the cause of the failure and discard the old pistons, rods, bearings, seals and any other old parts other than the core cylinders, head, crankshaft, cases and bolts. The remaining core parts are chemically cleaned and or media blasted. All gasket surfaces are prepped and then a final clean in an alkaline based cleaner. The bolts are cleaned of old sealant, Loctite, corrosion and the threads are chased. The threads in the cases and cylinders are also all chased. This ensures that all bolts can obtain proper torque and apply equal pressure when assembled. The Crankshaft is disassembled (pressed apart) and the rods, pins, bearing, and seals are discarded and are replaced with all new parts including rods with 4 oil feeders per rod. After the crankshaft is reassembled and is trued to perfection and verified on a truing stand. Note we don’t weld the crankshaft to make up for loose fitting cheap parts. We do the final verification for fit and true running in your engine cases where it is supported on all of the bearing surfaces and verified for true in its real running conditions. The cylinders are squared up from the base of the cylinder (to keep it squared up with the bottom end) on a real boring bar made for 2 cycle engines and bored. Not a done with a hone only or other improvised method that some are doing. Then we final sized with the proper hone. We measure each cylinder in 8 places to verify a perfect match to its assigned piston. All of the ports are chamfered in our traditional 3 stage manner. All of the machine work is done in house here at Full Bore and exceeds factory quality specifications. All of Full Bore rebuilt engines are built with new top quality parts, pistons, rings, pins, clips, rods, bearings, gaskets and seals. These aren't SBT remans and we don't and won't use SBT parts in anything we do. We only use parts that over the years and have proven them worthy of being in a full bore engine. Our platinum engine rotates easier and produces less friction. This results in less heat, less drag, and more Horse Power, while increasing the dependability. We spend 12-16 hours on each and every rebuild. No shortcuts, no false claims, no bull, just perfection and attention to detail. All of our engines are built to last and we stand behind them, with a warranty on parts and craftsmanship.

Our Platinum rebuild now comes with a 2 year warranty.

 

[Icantswim]

Motor has been shipped since this pic
View attachment 41380

 

[mikidymac]

The only thing I would question is the carbon tech reeds as they have been know to have a short life. But on any performance engine your maintenance intervals shrink.

 

[Icantswim]

The only thing I would question is the carbon tech reeds as they have been know to have a short life. But on any performance engine your maintenance intervals shrink.

I haven't heard or read anything about that with those reeds. What is considered a short life, as i think the ones i pulled off are the originals and as far I could tell (no expert) they worked as designed.

 

[mikidymac]

The stock ones are carbon fiber too.

I know Dr. Honda stated he had seen some that were not sealing after 20 hours.

FYI. The stock reeds will support a heavily modified 100 octane engine running 68+ mph.

 

[Icantswim]

Good to know! TY

 

[rooster18]

Sweet. Subscribed. Rebuilding the top end on mine right now. Waiting on orings for the head. Can't wait to watch the progress of your build.

 

[Icantswim]

UPDATE: Watercraft Magic Carb Jetting. After speaking with Chris from WCM and giving him a little more details on the motor and end goals, he doesn't believe their standard 951 jetting kit is the most appropriate. Waiting to hear back from Full Bore on what the squish clearances and compression will be to get it fully dialed in. I'll also be inquiring about the carbon tech reeds, I'd hate to have to swap them out after getting everything together...

 

[Icantswim]

Below is a few pics of the (stock) reeds I have taken off my 951. What Do you all think of them? Are the spent? What are some things to pay attention to when inspecting? Also this is the first time I have really dealt with reeds, are these the plastic ones as they look more like a Kevlar type of material but it could just be the mold pattern..... my debate is, should I stick with stock or rely on the carbon tech ones that are being put on my motor....any feedback is good feedback!


*I'll have to post from my pc later as I can't upload from phone

 

[Icantswim]

 

[rooster18]

I'm new to the 2 stroke game and reeds also. In my opinion as long as they are sealing to the cage and no chips or cracks they should be alright. Hold them up to the light and see if you can see any light coming through the mating surface of the cage and reeds. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in.

 

[soccerdad]

Those look fine. I would not stress about the carbon reeds. Even if they chip, they will not hurt your motor. Eventually bad reeds will just hurt the low end punch if they are leaking. Total reed failure could keep it from starting.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

for your speedo, install the GPS based one that links to the OEM guage. I installed one on my GTX, and it works just dandy.

It was cheaper than the paddlewheel, and GPS accurate with OEM look.

 

[WhiskeyD]

I dont have much 951 experience but I believe most people prefer the Rinaldi, MXZ or Vforce reeds

 

[Icantswim]

for your speedo, install the GPS based one that links to the OEM guage. I installed one on my GTX, and it works just dandy.

It was cheaper than the paddlewheel, and GPS accurate with OEM look.

Thanks, Do you have a link for where I can find this?

 

[tkarvelis]

For the speedo, look on CandooPro's site.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

http://www.pwcmuscle.com/candoopro-gps-module-seadoo-2-wire.html

I do wish the 'battery' attachment end was more elegant. like something that plugged into the e-box or somewhere that's not continually covered in oil/water/lube/etc. If I cared enough, maybe I'd run new wires into the e-box, but on the XP that's in the front, so maybe that's a hassle.

I just bought a new boat, and although it came at a reasonable price, I have a phone book long list of 'to fix', so that's taken over my time...

Other than that, I found it easy to install/setup.
There is a 9(?) pin connector grey, that plugs into the e-box. maybe they could have used a male/female of that to get constant 12v? maybe it's a 6 pin? it's the one that goes to the front of the 951 as well. that would have been a very plug/play install vs. going to the battery directly... maybe the DESS connector has a 12v constant you could wire in using all OEM connections.

Actually, maybe the trim on the XP has an always on 12v you could tap.

Sorry, I'm droning on...

I'm just a guy who likes to keep the wiring neat and professional. Less issues...

 

[Icantswim]

Hi all I have a quick questions which Im sure is covered somewhere deep in this forum. While I have the my boat a part Im going through everything and inspecting and cleaning parts. I have decided that I WILL keep my oil pump. Everyone has their opinion on this but this is my choice. Anyway here are my questions. 1. Is there a way to inspect the oil pump while off of the ski? 2. I have tried to find a new/reman oil pump, but haven't been able to do so. Are these available? 3. There is a spring inside of the oil line between the tank, inline filter and pump, what is this for? when I was removing the line from the motor I got a little impatient and snipped it as close to the oil pump to free the line, but then realized there was a spring in there, I think I may have snipped about 1/16th of an inch off. I believe it adds rigidity to the line but I am not sure 4. while inspecting the pump what are some things I should be looking for? FYI: I do not believe I had any issues with the pump previously, but if I could get it to oem factory fresh spec while its out that would be great. Pic below of my pump, I have since removed the pump and painted the cover black (stator/mag removed)

 

[Icantswim]

A couple things i've been doing while waiting on my motor to return....



Painted the exhaust with high-temp paint (red), still deciding on how to handle the Exhaust Manifold. Engine paint is only good for 550F, so I'm considering a ceramic powder coat as the spray paint for +1000F needs to be cured in an oven and I'm pretty sure my wife will cut my head off if I used our oven for it lol


Adding decals to go along with my "Rumble Bee" theme. Rotax and Bee stickers are actually from bombardier's snowmobiles- who cares, i like it lol.


Finally sourced me a decent cover for under $100, needed some UV treatment and H20 proofing. I am using 303 marine fabric spray for this.

 

[mikidymac]

No reason to use even engine paint as they are water jacketed and run cool. Even standard rattle can is fine.

The oil pump is stone cold reliable. I wouldn't do anything to it.

The spring in the oil line is stock and just keeps the hose open. Don't worry about the part you cut just make sure you recover the cut piece.

I would replace the small lines from the pump to the intake manifold.

 

[Icantswim]

No reason to use even engine paint as they are water jacketed and run cool. Even standard rattle can is fine.

The oil pump is stone cold reliable. I wouldn't do anything to it.

The spring in the oil line is stock and just keeps the hose open. Don't worry about the part you cut just make sure you recover the cut piece.

I would replace the small lines from the pump to the intake manifold.

Thanks so much! I thought the same too about the manifold being cooled, but I've heard that it can spike at times under load >550 but I couldnt find any definitive answers on it. I mean I guess I could spray and see how it goes. If it starts cracking, well then I have my answer.

In regards to the oil lines, are thes 3/32 (ID) lines?

 

[mikidymac]

The temperature should never get that hot.

Yes, 3/32" tygon hose.

 

[Icantswim]

Haven't posted an update in sometime. While I've been waiting For the return of my motor, I found a good deal on a solas concord 15/21. While installing it, when I pulled out the drive shaft it fell and hit the ground cracking the little white piece that goes on the end toward the pto. I have searched and searched but I can not find this part for the life of me. What is it, what does it do, and where would I be able to find another one? Pics below of what it looks like

Sorry this is the best pic I have at the moment (not my pic, used for reference)

 

[Icantswim]

Disregard it is called a Bushing Snap! Part Number 293900016, found one at seadooparthouse for $11.