95 speedster rebuild

[PeteG]

Picked up a 95 speedster as a winter spring project. Going in know in one engine needed a rebuild. Pulled it apart to find one piston bad so had cylinders redone and have new pistons etc for the rebuild. Question is: when I tore it down I noticed the bottom end is full of oil? Anything special that would cause this? Anything I should look at prior to my rebuild? (I have rebuilt a few 787's but never full of oil like this)

Cheers,
Pete

 

[LouDoo]

Probably the crank seals, you might want to consider a full rebuild, or a rebuilt engine.

Lou

 

[PeteG]

Thanks Lou. Is there a way of testing these seals? Looks like there are a couple inner and end seals? At this point the bottom end is still in the boat.
If need be I could try and find a good bottom end.

Pete

 

[A B Able Truck]

I'm trying to understand these engines. Why wouldn't the lower half be full of oil and what is the purpose of the rotary valve?

 

[PeteG]

After talking to a couple members of the board, I pulled the bottom end from the boat to test the crank seals due to one side of the bottom end being full of oil which this picture doesn't show very well (which I hope to do over the next couple of days.) This will also allow me to clean the engine compartment which looks like someone neglected since 1995.

After pulling the bottom end I did find an issue which was probably the culprit of the failed piston. One of the small oil injection lines was completely broken off/missing so any oil which was supposed to go into the cylinder was just pissing into the bottom of the engine compartment.
* Any recomendations of where to get the new oil lines?
* Regarding the degreasers I have read many options everyone on the board has used so I will see what I have on hand and give it a shot...
* What is everyone using for paint on their engines? Is the factory white a special color or is it just white? I may change it up depending depending on the mood I am in or what I find. Might go with a high temp powder also?

Thanks for any info/help.

Pete

 

[LouDoo]

Yes it looks like your boat has the original oil lines, they need to be changed about every 3 years or when the lines get hard, you probably need to do the other engine also.

1. Oil lines, 3/32" tygon, ACE Hardware or small engine shop, it used in chainsaws, weed eaters, blowers. Use small cable ties for clamps.

2. Degreaser, SuperClean.

3. Engine paint, I'm going to defer to either [MENTION=59978]kicker[/MENTION] or [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION]

Lou

 

[racerxxx]

Paint is Duplicolor wheel paint, white is HPW100, silver is HPW101. I have been using this paint for a few years (6+ now) with great results. I get it at my local Pep boys, but most auto parts does should carry it. It's about $7 a can. I use about a can and a half on a bare engine, so going over previous paint you could probably get away with one can or less.



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[PeteG]

Update on the engine in question above. I was able to put a test on the crank seals as directed. Pressure held steady at 5psi with no movement for hours. (I know it didn't have to be that long but I left the house for a while) As shown above the top end is off so I rotated the crank around for several minutes to see if that would make a difference and nothing, still held 5psi without movement. What is the recommendation from others? Put the new top end on it and run it? Tear the bottom end apart and install new crank etc? (not that I have the money to do this at this time.)

Pete

 

[PeteG]

I cleaned the oil out of the bottom end to be sure it wasn't affecting my crank seal test. So, bottom end pretty clean of oil, put 5psi on the seals and held strong with 0psi leakage. Would you say i'm safe to throw the top end back on and run it?
I do plan on changine out all oil lines/gass lines and water lines. And pulling apart the carbs to be sure they are set.

Thanks for any feedback/suggestions.

Pete

 

[racerxxx]

As long as all the bearings feel smooth, why not the warm weather is coming.

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