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95 speedster no spark on port

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onefast66nova

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I just got a 95 speedster that has been sitting for bout 8 years. Got all old gas out and going to clean the carbs out and check the lines. The strb engine fires and idles ok but does not rev too free but thinking that's due to junk in carbs. The port engine has no spark. I have not dug in too far and have downloaded the manual however I have some questions. I am good with 12 volt systems and this one is different than the cars I'm used to working on. In the manual it states that I need an ignition tester. Under test results there are no ohm values listed for the tests just the settings to use on the tester. I want to test all forms of the ign system and would like the values and not have to buy the tester. Any help would be great. Thanks in advance. Bill
 
It's a CDI ignition... and you really can't just check for resistance across some of the plugs. BUT.. I would start with the MAG coils in the engine. Make sure they aren't open, or shorted. Then... make sure the sparkplug wires aren't rotten/rusted.
 
Tried multiple zero of plugs and no go. Also am I only testing the lower 3 yellow wires like I read about on here. Also if I pull the mag cover would I see if the puck up was broken without removing flywheel
 
Assuming you don't find the normal stuff like blown fuses and corroded wires, etc, I'd probably start by removing the spark plugs and perform the magneto flywheel ignition pickup test. If memory serves me, those pickups inside the magneto housing are known to break lose.
 
Updates I have 140 psi compression both cyl. In between the yellow and yellow black on the mag is 1.6 ohms. I can hook spark tester to non running engine and very weak spark. The engine that runs has very strong spark in tester. Gonna switch coils and see what that does.
 
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Update #2 just tested grounds and it has only .4 ohm resistance on ground. Also I swapped coils and the rectifiers? (Part in electronic box that has 4 wires and is a small metal box) from running engine and no luck still.
 
Did you trim the plug wires back? If not , pull the boot off and trim a quarter inch off the wires. Reset the wire plug clip and boot. Should be clean wire at that point.
 
I read some other people's posts and someone was having an issue with a starter solonoid drawing too many volts from the battery and there for not allowing enough volts for the ignition to work properly. You all think this sounds like it could be the issue as well since it is weak spark. If the stator was bad would it not work at all?
 
I thought cdi was a good or bad situation. If it was bad, there would be zero spark. Did you get the same results with the other coil?
I would recheck all connections in the e box. Even run a ground from the battery to the engine block.
 
Same results with other coil and other rectifier. All connections are tight and clean. The ground on non running engine has less resistance than running engine.
 
Does your spark checker show spark while cranking with plugs in place? Are you certain your plugs aren't fouled? Does the spark improve with spark plugs removed (no compression = higher cranking voltage)?
 
I have been researching this weak spark, and looks like the mpem drops signal if voltage gets too low. 951c has suggested a good test. Maybe try that, also might try switching out the starter relay from the good engine also. It may be pulling too much voltage.
 
It's in the manual just after the ignition system test. I was going to test a spare I have when I get home, but I just tossed a timing belt getting there. SMH.
 
I found it. Looks like I tested the wrong ones. Yellow and yellow black is for charging circuit and is .05-.6 ohms so I'm guessing it is part of my problem. Perhaps the magnets are all covered with shavings. I am going to test the other black wires and also test good engine after rain quits. Sry to hear bout your timing belt. Hope it was a non interfere engine.
 
My 1996 schematic shows a 3-phase stator (3 yellow wires) and the ignition trigger (yellow/white and black.yellow)

Yes, if the ignition trigger is fouled with starter gear chips it will produce a weak signal or no signal Also they can break lose. If the signal is good (small AC voltage) and the system voltage doesn't drop under 11V while cranking, there should be enuff of everything for the CDI to work.

Two engines is nice b/c you can swap stuff around for the process of elimination. Could be the capacitor in the CDI is kaput or even the lanyard switch, hard to say. I think the 1995 still used the separate CDI modules, right?

The circuit in the CDI module might look something like this drawing, or pretty close. I think the capacitor that is switched through the SCR to ring the ignition coil gets weak. Check low hanging fruit first, of course. Anyway, I think if you disconnect the coil you should read at least a couple hundred volts while cranking, which is the capacitor voltage needed to ring the coil. Just b/c it's 200V doesn't necessarily mean there's enough power to ring the coil though, if the capacitor is weak.
 

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The cdi is the mpem correct. It is all in one unit. The rain finally quit and I was able to go do some testing. The black and the black and red at mag cover is for the ignition side of the circuit as i am seeing it. I tested them and got .05 ohm. I turned over the motor a little by hand and retested then got .40 ohm. Looks like I will be pulling that motor and inspecting for debris in the stator.
 
On my known good 4 wire stator off a 95 657x, I showed 60 ohms between black and black/red.

Oh, 15 out of 16 valves bent on the car :(

Use a harmonic balancer puller to pull the flywheel. Just thread the bolts in enough to do the job. If you go too far, you will jack up the stator for sure. Be patient, they can be a b...ch.
 
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Oh wow that blows man sry to hear that. Is there any damage to the Pistons or can you get by with new head? Btw if I need a stator that good one of yours for sale lol
 
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Can't tell yet. Here's what I had when I pulled the vc
108.jpg
 
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