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95 seadoo xp 717 fuel problems?

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Yes it cuts ignition until it gets below the level.

I can’t think of much else that would make it fall on its face only when the pump unloads. RPM’s would Peak but the load would go to almost nothing so in theory it would be using less fuel than loaded WOT.
 
I believe the 95XP does have the limiter integrated into the MPEM. It’s been a little bit since I was inside the electrical box on my 95, but I’m 90% sure it’s set up that way...
 
I believe the 95XP does have the limiter integrated into the MPEM. It’s been a little bit since I was inside the electrical box on my 95, but I’m 90% sure it’s set up that way...

Yeah, I don't recall it being separate on mine but it was so long ago and I had no trouble with the ski so only did maintenance.
 
Yes it cuts ignition until it gets below the level.

I can’t think of much else that would make it fall on its face only when the pump unloads. RPM’s would Peak but the load would go to almost nothing so in theory it would be using less fuel than loaded WOT.

It wont burn fuel if there's no ignition. So whatever's there either goes out the exhaust or lingers. Interesting issue. Think of things that have changed once the impeller unhooks. Yes, if the rev-limit latches there will be no ignition so it's a possibility. Vibration also changes when the impeller unhooks, and other dynamics change. So it's a matter of listing them and going through the list in a process of elimination.
 
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Yes it cuts ignition until it gets below the level.

I can’t think of much else that would make it fall on its face only when the pump unloads. RPM’s would Peak but the load would go to almost nothing so in theory it would be using less fuel than loaded WOT.

Single coil, right? Which means both cylinders have no ignition when the rev limiter is active. The distinction might make a difference in the attempt to flesh out the root cause.
 
Single coil, right? Which means both cylinders have no ignition when the rev limiter is active. The distinction might make a difference in the attempt to flesh out the root cause.
Hopefully I will have some answers providing it's not poring down rain when I get home. I will also try and take a video of the issue if i can get it running well enough first one thing at a time i guess
 
Update..... I removed the carbs gave them a cleaning just for fun, never really cleaned the 3 little holes down the throat of the carb. Installed new OEM needle and seats, new main jets 135s and new 67.5 jets, new 80 gram spring. Made sure the needle arm was flush with the upper body of the carbs and confirmed the popoff pressure was set to 48 on both. While I was testing I noticed these needle and seats didn't leak a bubble after the popoff I was impressed. Put everything back together and synced carbs. Ski runs great now I had a slight miss at top speeds but it figured itself out right away and doesnt do it anymore.
The bad, apparently I took a big *** rock into the impeller I was able to remove the steering collar and get it out but it did do damage to the impeller. Not to bad though I get slight cavitation from a dead stop to WOT but its livable for now. I still need to get a new petcock valve and try and find a OEM water filter/separator I have a small rock fuel filter on it for now. Any suggestions on where to get a good petcock and fuel filter or will the rock filter I have on it be good?

I owe each and everyone of you guys that posted on here a beer, thanks so much for the info on where to start, I spent lots of time and money chasing these problems down. These carbs are supper funky and need specifics in order to run happy.
I do still have questions on the other one but I will get it happy and post back at a later date.
Thanks again, you guys are the pros that's for sure
 
For the selectors and strainers I buy OEM from pro caliber out of Washington. Also OSD has them.
 
Pro caliber? Where in Washington?
And I started the party too early just got in from playing on the seadoo and the problem is back. However i noticed I'm leaking water out of the exhaust upper portion and the copper ring could this be causing my problem? The problem now is she starts to die down after 20 min slowly starts dropping rpms to around 4k at WOT and wont pick back up. Could that water leak cause my issues?
 
It’s more than likely an exhaust leak starving the engine of oxygen so it dies out.

Just google Pro Caliber Parts. Free shipping over $99 and they have the seadoo full synthetic oil for $42 a gallon.
 
It’s more than likely an exhaust leak starving the engine of oxygen so it dies out.

Just google Pro Caliber Parts. Free shipping over $99 and they have the seadoo full synthetic oil for $42 a gallon.

Is that why after a while it runs back to normal? That does make sense. The thing that ticks me off is I just replaced the gasket and cleaned the copper ring and used copper rtv on it. The bolt broke on the top part of the exhaust manifold. So now I need to fix that before I can ride it again.
 
You need to make sure the pipe bushings are perfect and wouldn’t hurt to get new ones.

Then get all bolts barely finger tight and make sure the joint with the copper ring is perfectly aligned before you even begin to tighten the clamp. Then slowly tighten everything a little at a time.
 
You need to make sure the pipe bushings are perfect and wouldn’t hurt to get new ones.

Then get all bolts barely finger tight and make sure the joint with the copper ring is perfectly aligned before you even begin to tighten the clamp. Then slowly tighten everything a little at a time.

Pipe bushings? Not sure what these are I didn't pay that much attention to how aligned it is so now I'm doing it again, gotta love these guys lol
 
Ok I know one bolt fell out of those and prob caused the water leaks...I will look into new ones also prob going to need new seal for the top of the manifold. I did notice while riding with the seat off the water was spraying out of the copper ring right ontop of the stator plug wonder is that's what's causing it to bod down badly. It's weird I can sometimes run laps around the lake, but as soon as I start hard cornering it starts bogging down when I try and go fast again. Is venom a good brand for exhaust gaskets? Trying to get parts fast to get you guys answers without buying more garbage
 
Venom isn’t really that good.
Honestly I like oem and they are pretty cheap considering.
 
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