91 bombardier gt dies after 15 mins of riding

[rockonix12]

Alright so I've been riding this old jetski I bought at the beginning of the summer it was all good until these last 2 times I was riding. Basically I was riding just fine until the 15 min mark where all if a sudden the throttle would make it bog and die but If I left it alone it would idle for a little bit until it died and I wouldn't be able to restart it again and have to be towed back. After like half an hour it could start on the trailer and idle but still bog and die with throttle. If i let it sit for a day and come back to it I can ride for the 15 mins until the problem repeats. I replaced spark plugs and checked compression in both cylinders both were 150psi I have no clue why it's doing this pls help

 

[kevinz]

Are the fuel lines hard and grey? Also the carb will most likely need rebuilt. Also, if that model has the water/fuel seperator bowl, the o ring for the bowl is likely torn. And replace the selector valve if it has one. Once the fuel system is in top shape, then see how it does.

Also, post pics, I'm the only one on here that seems to like those old 3 seaters and consequently, might be the only one to offer help.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Bottom line is, if you still have Grey Tempo fuel lines they MUST be replaced. When doing so, replace the filter, clean fuel selector (or replace it as they are cheap and that's better than cleaning it), clean the filters inside the carbs (not with carb cleaner as it can destroy them). It is likely the carbs will need rebuilt, at a minimum they need cleaned.

Stator seems to be able to cause some warm engine issues as well. It is pretty easy to test. In your case, I would test it cold and when the issue happens, test it hot.


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[rockonix12]

Are the fuel lines hard and grey? Also the carb will most likely need rebuilt. Also, if that model has the water/fuel seperator bowl, the o ring for the bowl is likely torn. And replace the selector valve if it has one. Once the fuel system is in top shape, then see how it does.

Also, post pics, I'm the only one on here that seems to like those old 3 seaters and consequently, might be the only one to offer help.

I'll post some pics give me a bit


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[rockonix12]

Bottom line is, if you still have Grey Tempo fuel lines they MUST be replaced. When doing so, replace the filter, clean fuel selector (or replace it as they are cheap and that's better than cleaning it), clean the filters inside the carbs (not with carb cleaner as it can destroy them). It is likely the carbs will need rebuilt, at a minimum they need cleaned.

Stator seems to be able to cause some warm engine issues as well. It is pretty easy to test. In your case, I would test it cold and when the issue happens, test it hot.


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Yeah the stator when it's idling low before it dies I can hear some really loud noises coming from the front side of the motor

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[Coastiejoe]

Yeah the stator when it's idling low before it dies I can hear some really loud noises coming from the front side of the motor

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Well,,, for that reason as well as the warm stalling issue, you need to take a good look there.


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[rockonix12]

Well,,, for that reason as well as the warm stalling issue, you need to take a good look there.


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But only when the idle drops low enough for it to die if it stays running I don't hear any noise from it?

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[Coastiejoe]

But only when the idle drops low enough for it to die if it stays running I don't hear any noise from it?

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You hear noise AFTER it dies?


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[rockonix12]

You hear noise AFTER it dies?


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No only when the rpms drop too low for it to stay running

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[rockonix12]

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[rockonix12]

Def got some grey lines. Got the ski for 300 bucks and had a good summer with it my first watercraft so not too bad

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[Coastiejoe]

If they are Grey Tempo fuel lines, then NOTHING else matters... As I stated above. They MUST be changed, carbs pulled and cleaned, fuel selector cleaned or replaced.


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[rockonix12]

If they are Grey Tempo fuel lines, then NOTHING else matters... As I stated above. They MUST be changed, carbs pulled and cleaned, fuel selector cleaned or replaced.


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What size full lines should I get and how many feet?

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[Coastiejoe]

I don't know hen2-stoke ski models well enough to answer that. [MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] or [MENTION=31048]LouDoo[/MENTION] probably do though.


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[racerxxx]

I think all you main fuel line is black marine, but it's old and probably should be replaced any way . 20' of 1/4" should do you solid. That gray line that has the 90 deg. fitting is the pulse line, you don't really need to replace that if you don't want to. Pull the carb and clean it really good. What I don't get is it will run for 15 minutes. Almost sounds like an electrical component going thermal, meaning once it get shot it doesn't operate like it should.

 

[rockonix12]

I think all you main fuel line is black marine, but it's old and probably should be replaced any way . 20' of 1/4" should do you solid. That gray line that has the 90 deg. fitting is the pulse line, you don't really need to replace that if you don't want to. Pull the carb and clean it really good. What I don't get is it will run for 15 minutes. Almost sounds like an electrical component going thermal, meaning once it get shot it doesn't operate like it should.

Would that fit to the gas and oil tank also?

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[rockonix12]

I think all you main fuel line is black marine, but it's old and probably should be replaced any way . 20' of 1/4" should do you solid. That gray line that has the 90 deg. fitting is the pulse line, you don't really need to replace that if you don't want to. Pull the carb and clean it really good. What I don't get is it will run for 15 minutes. Almost sounds like an electrical component going thermal, meaning once it get shot it doesn't operate like it should.

The only grey line I see is the 90 degree one does that mean someone already went ahead and replaced it?

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[racerxxx]

No, they originally came with black lines, but like I mentioned....it's old and should possibly be replaced anyway. But I know they used a quality line back then. The problem is the gray ones deteriorate internally and plug carbs and lean out the engine and kaboom you melt down a piston.

But like others have said, if you haven't gone thru the entire fuel system yet........you need to.

 

[RodInEscondido]

Like racer said, old fuel lines harden and should be replaced. You can get a 25ft spool of 1/4 inch fuel line from your local auto parts store which should give you enough and allow for at least one mistake in cutting. On a couple older skis I have, the black fuel lines were like plastic hard and became loose at almost every connection which leads to air in the fuel system and lean running. Not associated with your current problem of 15 minute runs, but save some later headaches.

Do not recall size of oil lines from oil tank to oil pump and rv. Little oil lines from oil pump to rv cover are 3/32, tygon or fuel line from lawn mower shop works.

Rectifier is common problem, search here for threads on testing.

 

[rockonix12]

Like racer said, old fuel lines harden and should be replaced. You can get a 25ft spool of 1/4 inch fuel line from your local auto parts store which should give you enough and allow for at least one mistake in cutting. On a couple older skis I have, the black fuel lines were like plastic hard and became loose at almost every connection which leads to air in the fuel system and lean running. Not associated with your current problem of 15 minute runs, but save some later headaches.

Do not recall size of oil lines from oil tank to oil pump and rv. Little oil lines from oil pump to rv cover are 3/32, tygon or fuel line from lawn mower shop works.

Rectifier is common problem, search here for threads on testing.

Idk if there is a oil return line or not but it's the one on the bottom of the oil tank I have tan a few new quarts of oil but when I pulled the line from the block the oil was completely milky

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[rockonix12]

I can't figure out how to get a wrench around the carb bolts that hook it to the block

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[RodInEscondido]

You should have 2 oil lines connected to the bottom of the oil tank, one goes to the oil injector pump thru an oil filter, the other line feeds the rv gear and connects to a fitting on the block under the rv cover. There is another oil fitting on the block above the rv cover, the line from this connection is the return line to the top of the oil tank. If the oil is milky, this means water which is very bad.

I do not know if you are asking about the bolts/nuts that hold the carbs to the manifold or something else. I personally have found it easier to remove the rv cover and pull out the entire assembly of rv cover, intake manifold and carbs; you can then see/work on stuff like the small oil injection lines that you are going to change. Murphy's law says there will always be at least one nut/bolt/screw that is almost impossible to access.