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657x rebuild
- Thread starter dwe19
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Mraw
Well-Known Member
If you want to be back on the water quick then SBT is probably your best bet. Before you put in your new engine I would go through the entire fuel system, replace all grey lines, fuel selector, fuel filter o ring, and rebuild carbs with only genuine mikuni kits including new needles and seats
dwe19
Member
Thanks Gene,I'm a top end doing kinda guy if the bottom checks out.
the kids are all over it to keep it and fix. not a bad initial 200$ investment in total i have about 500 with new seat, tires for trailer, fuel lines, fuel switch, grips, etc
Man that's hella cool !! It's easy to get $1500 into these these skis but when you do that you generally have a terrific ski. I actully have 657X that is in pieces... I thought a out rebuilding it but I don't have a ski to put it in and I'm not buying one. I got engines everywhere right now. LOL Good Luck !
I'll be happy to see you guys get these engines I have apart. I started in the machinist trade at 18 and removing rusted and saltwater corroded bolts and parts was routine just much larger equipment. From my experience with these salt water Seadoos I get lots of times an impact is the bestus way to get the exhaust manifold bolts out of a 787, If they are gonna come out at all and at times heat and the impact. Just need to use a little finesse' with the power of the impact. I'm going to buy a 3/8" Drive impact to do the smaller bolts. I gotta figure out a way to remove the head bolts with consistency. I watched a video of a guy from another county use an air chisel on a combination wrench to loosen a bolt. I actually tried that and got a couple of bolts out using that method.
Please pardon my passion here. LOL This isn't an argument but the crap I go through on a routine basis.
Your mileage my vary.
These bolts at times break loose from the thread and still break off because they are so tight around the through hole due to corrosion. I've mixed Acetone with automatic transmission fluid, I've doused them with Blaster, I've drilled holes into the threaded area on some engines and inserted tubes so the liquid would drip into the area over time. I refilled the tubes over days and still couldn't get these engines apart. So... I can tell you these bastards break off just looking at them. And the last thing you want to do is move them back and forth while trying to loosen them. As I say... good luck and I always mean it.
Please pardon my passion here. LOL This isn't an argument but the crap I go through on a routine basis.
Your mileage my vary.
These bolts at times break loose from the thread and still break off because they are so tight around the through hole due to corrosion. I've mixed Acetone with automatic transmission fluid, I've doused them with Blaster, I've drilled holes into the threaded area on some engines and inserted tubes so the liquid would drip into the area over time. I refilled the tubes over days and still couldn't get these engines apart. So... I can tell you these bastards break off just looking at them. And the last thing you want to do is move them back and forth while trying to loosen them. As I say... good luck and I always mean it.
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AKnarrowback
Well-Known Member
I'll be happy to see you guys get these engines I have apart. I started in the machinist trade at 18 and removing rusted and saltwater corroded bolts and parts was routine just much larger equipment. From my experience with these salt water Seadoos I get lots of times an impact is the bestus way to get the exhaust manifold bolts out of a 787, If they are gonna come out at all and at times heat and the impact. Just need to use a little finesse' with the power of the impact. I'm going to buy a 3/8" Drive impact to do the smaller bolts. I gotta figure out a way to remove the head bolts with consistency. I watched a video of a guy from another county use an air chisel on a combination wrench to loosen a bolt. I actually tried that and got a couple of bolts out using that method.
Please pardon my passion here. LOL This isn't an argument but the crap I go through on a routine basis.
Your mileage my vary.
These bolts at times break loose from the thread and still break off because they are so tight around the through hole due to corrosion. I've mixed Acetone with automatic transmission fluid, I've doused them with Blaster, I've drilled holes into the threaded area on some engines and inserted tubes so the liquid would drip into the area over time. I refilled the tubes over days and still couldn't get these engines apart. So... I can tell you these bastards break off just looking at them. And the last thing you want to do is move them back and forth while trying to loosen them. As I say... good luck and I always mean it.
Dang......... I'm glad the ocean is 300 miles away. Never once had a problem pulling a motor apart.
dwe19
Member
dwe19
Member
Well I got the head off 6 bolts clean out and the other six snapped.
And the verdict is a broken ring in the PTO cylinder. There is some scoring from the short time that it did run nothing really deep. So I guess I need to take the cylinders out and home or bore them to the next size up.
And the verdict is a broken ring in the PTO cylinder. There is some scoring from the short time that it did run nothing really deep. So I guess I need to take the cylinders out and home or bore them to the next size up.
When the head bolts break off early in the game most times you have enough thread to use a vise-gri and apply some concentrated heat in the correct place. Tthey usually come right out at that point. I find PB BLASTER from Home Depot to be good stuff. It surprises me and I'm not easy to surprise. LOL Good Luck.
I threw one complete engine away, I got two with stuck bolts everywhere and I almost passed out when I got my personal 1996 GTX engine apart without breaking anything. It was difficult and that engine had seen some salt water as well. I'll have a rig for these engines this winter. Keep the skis in fresh water.
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