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2012 Chal 210...High RPM, Slow Speed

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sammyg101

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My boat has been in storage for 2 years due to my addiction to work. 2 Weeks ago I rolled it out the garage, flushed the engine, and decided to flood the engine on accident. I then for 10 hours worked on getting all the water out (long story, pain in the butt).

Today, I took the boat out and could not get the boat above 10mph w RPM's over 4000. Occasionally, I would floor in forward and the boat would bog/try to die.

On a few occasions tried to start the engine and had a beep and flashing engine on the cluster.

Any suggestions where to start?
 
I would drain that gas tank and clean it and replace the fuel filter...replace the engine coolant then change the engine oil and filter and see how it runs...that's a long time for a boat to sit untouched....
 
No mater anything else, at 4000 RPMs the boat should be moving, not struggling. You likely have a bad wear ring. Take a picture of the impeller/wear ring from underneath through the intake grate and post the picture.
 
Thank you for the help so far. The gas probably should come out but not sure that's the root cause of my issue.

It is weird that the boat is stalling and trying to die when I floor it.IMG_20150529_190438706.jpgIMG_20150529_190442831.jpgIMG_20150529_190448044.jpg
 
Unless it is a bad angle, the gap doesn't look to bad to me. It should be no more than the width of a dime, or 10-thousandths of an inch. Cavitation comes from one of three things. Impeeler/wear ring issues, stripped splines on the drive shaft, a carbon seal issue. Are you getting water in the hull?
 
Water in the hull as the bilge was filling up? I did not notice that and the boat was in the water for an hour.
 
I think my Challenger would plow through the water for quite a while at 4000 RPM without ever getting on plane, and that is with twin engines. I don't think I would be chasing cavitation just yet.

I would make sure your oil level is within the spec on the dipstick - too much oil can cause performance problems. Have you changed the spark plugs? If not, I'd do that, as well (with the proper gap). I agree with Albysure on the gas issue. After two years, I'd get the existing gas out of the tank, pull the fuel pump to change the filter, and make sure I had fresh, pure gas in there. I'd also put a high quality fuel injector cleaner in there - The injectors may be clogged from sitting for so long.

I'd be willing to beet you are chasing a fuel delivery issue.

On the flooding topic, I would make sure you change the oil and filter several times. There are more detailed threads on dealing with a flooded engine. Make sure you follow those suggestions to avoid more issues.
 
Thanks! Ill do the fuel system.

When the impeller is moving I hear a metallic rubbing sound. Not sure if that's normal.
 
With a boat, I am thinking 4000 is borderline. On a ski, I'd be going 40 MPH.

No water entering the hull, not getting excessive high RPM's and you have not mentioned vibrations. So, I am leaning away from a cavitation issue.
 
I cant remember if the boat was vibrating. It probably was since the impeller was moving very fact but I wasn't going anywhere. I was too pissed to really realize it.

Any suggestions on the wear ring?

Also, I forgot to mention this boat only has about 20 hours on it. So I am even more disappointed.
 
My boat has been in storage for 2 years due to my addiction to work. 2 Weeks ago I rolled it out the garage, flushed the engine, and decided to flood the engine on accident. I then for 10 hours worked on getting all the water out (long story, pain in the butt).

Today, I took the boat out and could not get the boat above 10mph w RPM's over 4000. Occasionally, I would floor in forward and the boat would bog/try to die.

On a few occasions tried to start the engine and had a beep and flashing engine on the cluster.


Any suggestions where to start?

most likely a couple of problems now, i am still confident wear ring is one issue. similar to me one time had 4000 rpm at 15 mph.
bogging/stalling engine light flashing, you need the fault codes from the console.
 
I would ignore the wear ring until you get your fuel /ignition system in order. I'll get video of my boat at 4000 rpm so that you can compare.


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I changed the plugs and fuel plus added fuel injector cleaner. I took the boat out and could not go about 10mph or 3000.
When I tried to go above 3000rpm I heard some rubbling and the engine attempeted to stall but I went back to idle.

I brought the boat back home and noticed some more milky oil. Maybe I didn't get it all out the first time.

So, I ran the engine in the driveway at 3000rpm for 15 minutes iaw the manual. The dipstick hole has steam coming out (I think water evaporation). Everytime I try to go over 3000rpm the engine dies. I also notices the engine temp went 1/4 click above the normal middle range towards hot.

Might be time for the seadoo dealership to get raped.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Sam
 
If you had water I he oil, you'll need to change it at least 3 or 4 times. Change it, run it, change it, run it, etc...

The recommendations I have see say get the cheapest 10W-40 oil you can find and change it several times. There are more threads here about the full procedure. You have to get the water out before it does any damage (corrosion and lack of lubrication).

15 minutes in the driveway is a long time to run out of the water.


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For comparison, my twin engine 2010 Challenger 210 can do much of anything with 4K rpm. I don't think you are cavitating.

[video=youtube_share;j9Rm_JKOANM]http://youtu.be/j9Rm_JKOANM[/video]
 
Thanks for the video and info.

I wonder if I am getting blow by and that's what is limiting my speed. When I pull my dipstick, I get little burst of smoke (maybe water evaporation) coming from the hole.

What else would prevent me from moving? (There is nothing caught in the impeller.)

Sam
 
How are you flushing it while at home? Start the engine first then water on...water off then engine...you can back flow water in the engine this way also...if that year has the carbon seal I don't think you can run them on land that long without destroying the carbon seal...that would cause bad cavitation if that's bad..
Are you getting any beeps? Is the beeper working? Do you think it's going into limp mode?
 
its either the carbon seal or wear ring, most likely wear ring.
what go_panthers is saying is different, his boat is increasing in speed with the rpm's up to cruising speed. any one who has experienced cavitation will know the difference.

see if you can take closer pictures of the impeller/wear ring, one picture there looks like groove from impeller.
 
Last week I messed up and left the water running while on land and that's how I filled the engine. Hard Silly Lesson Learned.

I am not getting any beeps nor error codes. I did find water in the engine today that I think was left from last week. Why the hell don't they have a block plug.

I think the water in the crankcase might have been limiting my speed. Any thoughts on that?
I don't know about a carbon seal but I have a 2012 challenger 210 one engine.
How big of a job is the wear ring? Does anyone have the part number so I can ebay it? Ebay has a metal on is that worth $100 and does it work?

Thanks everyone for their time!!! Sammy G
 
There are definetely groves in the wear ring. It also sounds like as the impellor moves it is scraping metal. I hear like a metallic clanking or ball bearing sound.
 
Let's back up to when you stored the boat two years ago. Was it running well the last time you had it out back then? Or were you having cavitation issues? Was it winterized before you stored it?
 
Last week I messed up and left the water running while on land and that's how I filled the engine. Hard Silly Lesson Learned.

I am not getting any beeps nor error codes. I did find water in the engine today that I think was left from last week. Why the hell don't they have a block plug.

I think the water in the crankcase might have been limiting my speed. Any thoughts on that?
I don't know about a carbon seal but I have a 2012 challenger 210 one engine.
How big of a job is the wear ring? Does anyone have the part number so I can ebay it? Ebay has a metal on is that worth $100 and does it work?

Thanks everyone for their time!!! Sammy G

search ebay for wear ring for engine/boat, search here for wear ring changing instructions. heaps around. you can do at home allow two days (first time learning).
 
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