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2007 180C: continued issues with 30amp fuse (with photos)

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Carboncow

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Some of you would have seen another thread where I was asking for support for an ongoing issue with my 30amp fuse blowing at night while running the boat with nav lights as well as other items on the load. The boat did well for several weekends but this last week it did it twice at night again...I was out of my good 30amp fuses so I grabbed a set that could best be called inferior (Harbor Freight) set I had from many moons ago...still 30 amp but cheap looking.

This time the fuse went in broad daylight I got the low voltage beep, blinking battery on instruments along with a P0562 - Battery voltage too low. I usually don't see that last one, so that must come when it really drops, maybe.

So the fuse was nuked, melted and I can only assume it took out the wire in the fuse (todo it's job) but it also destroyed the fuse receptacle. So now I get to try to find that before the weekend!

1. I still would like to official know what that fuse does. W/o it the charging system doesn't work...obviously. Schematics don't seem to tell the story.
2. Any theories why this would only happen at night with the addition of the nav lights (incandescent) and interior lights (LED) running...hardly a load, right?
3. Anyone know a 100% solution for this?

The only thing worth mentioning is a put a 2nd battery on the boat (deep cycle) since owning it and I don't know if it ever blew prior to my ownership and w/o the battery. I took the 2nd battery off the system for several weeks when it wasn't blowing the fuse but it was still off the charging system when it went this weekend.

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For now, for safety reason. Get a 30 Amp Resetting fuse. It will trip, cool down and reset itself.

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They are all over the place as far as ordering/buying them goes. Many car dealerships have them as they are used for window motors. Use to be like $15, now they are under $5.

It will help with your issue, but will not solve what the real issue is. Worse case, run new wires and split the load of whatever is running on the present wires.
 
They are all over the place as far as ordering/buying them goes. Many car dealerships have them as they are used for window motors. Use to be like $15, now they are under $5.

It will help with your issue, but will not solve what the real issue is. Worse case, run new wires and split the load of whatever is running on the present wires.

Not sure why I didn't seen this post before but a solution (hack) may be here:

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?73793-Low-voltage-warning/page2

I think Coastie you were on here helping many people with this same issue on skiis as well as boats.

So it appears there are two concerns at work here...

1. 30amp fuse keep blowing and several had success by replacing 30amp fuse housing. Old poor connection in a very taxed path.
2. Adding the 2nd wire (as outlined above) from VR to battery with 20amp/18gauge per one dealer. The circuit is not heavy enough for the job and the 2nd wire is needed to help with the load.

Will execute tomorrow and report back. Def ordering that nifty fuse too!
 
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Sounds funny, but I have the same problem with a 500 scooter I have. Does the same thing. Haven't gotten a chance to look at it yet, but I suspect some corroded wires coming from or to the VR or stators.
 
just came across this little snippet, i know different year but possible same issue.

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Thanks. How vague, what fuse and what amp? I did the lead wire from red on VR out put to battery with 20 amp fuse inline. Instantly added 1.5v to my 3rd party volt meter I run so now at speed I see 13.5 to 4.2 volts. I'm sure this is the fix but stay tuned. I'll report back to those who have interest if the 30 amp goes again.

Is there more the. One page to this procedure as the forum app only shows one and more testing procedure seems to be missing.
 
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