Flightjunkie
Member
Hi guys.
I installed the automatic siphon bailing system on my 2006 Sportster 150. I didn't see a write-up on this, so figured I'd give back to the community.
I bought this boat with a blown engine. Had to rebuild the motor and the jet pump, carbon seal and all that.
While I had it apart I noticed these boats don't have the Siphon bailing system. I live in Hawaii, so this boat has to deal with rough water, surf, and salt. The rust in the engine compartment was pretty bad from all the salt water splashing around in the hull. So, I decided to install a siphon bailing system.
The siphon bailing system does a really good job of pumping all the water out. In the salt water environment this is important to keep it from splashing around on the motor and engine compartment components. The automatic electric bilge pump requires quite a lot of water in the hull before it turns on. The Siphon Bailers on the other hand are sucking all the water out anytime the engine is running.
This system also has the ability to pump out a large volume of water which is important when playing in rough water and surf. As long as the engine is running you're not gonna sink with this system installed!
To install this system all I needed to buy was two siphon tubes, a set of used siphon bailer screen and hoses (with one-way valves), and two NPT hose barb fittings. Total cost was $40.
Remove pump. Drill from outside with the largest bit that will fit the black plastic hole. Then drill from the inside with the correct size bit for the NPT fitting. For me this was a 1/2" bit. Stop when it gets to the plastic. The NPT hose barb fittings self tap into the fiberglass making a strong and water tight installation.
Then you just have to hammer the siphon tubes into the pump venturi. I put a Philips screwdriver in the Siphon tube and used that as a tool to hammer them in. It's a pressed fit. No need to glue them in.
Install some orings and reinstall the pump. When running the hoses I suggest hose clamping the hose to the brass hose barb and to the one-way valve because if they came off your boat would take on water. Zip tie the hose elbows (yellow part) up as high as possible. These elbows have a small hole in them. This is to allow some air in as a "siphon break" so that water can not Siphon back into the boat. Make sure this hole isn't clogged. I suggest buying the bailer screen hose set from a year that used the one way valves (the grey plastic part). This is a second layer of protection to make sure water will never flow backwards into the boat. Blow through them to make sure they aren't clogged, and blow the other way to make sure the one way valve is working.
The bailer screens are attached with a metal bracket. I didn't want to buy these so I just zip tied the screens in place. I put one under the back of the motor by the shaft which is where I notice water accumulate as the lowest spot at slow speeds. I put the second one farther back where the water accumulates when the bow is pitched up.
See pictures. Lmk if you have any questions.
I installed the automatic siphon bailing system on my 2006 Sportster 150. I didn't see a write-up on this, so figured I'd give back to the community.
I bought this boat with a blown engine. Had to rebuild the motor and the jet pump, carbon seal and all that.
While I had it apart I noticed these boats don't have the Siphon bailing system. I live in Hawaii, so this boat has to deal with rough water, surf, and salt. The rust in the engine compartment was pretty bad from all the salt water splashing around in the hull. So, I decided to install a siphon bailing system.
The siphon bailing system does a really good job of pumping all the water out. In the salt water environment this is important to keep it from splashing around on the motor and engine compartment components. The automatic electric bilge pump requires quite a lot of water in the hull before it turns on. The Siphon Bailers on the other hand are sucking all the water out anytime the engine is running.
This system also has the ability to pump out a large volume of water which is important when playing in rough water and surf. As long as the engine is running you're not gonna sink with this system installed!
To install this system all I needed to buy was two siphon tubes, a set of used siphon bailer screen and hoses (with one-way valves), and two NPT hose barb fittings. Total cost was $40.
Remove pump. Drill from outside with the largest bit that will fit the black plastic hole. Then drill from the inside with the correct size bit for the NPT fitting. For me this was a 1/2" bit. Stop when it gets to the plastic. The NPT hose barb fittings self tap into the fiberglass making a strong and water tight installation.
Then you just have to hammer the siphon tubes into the pump venturi. I put a Philips screwdriver in the Siphon tube and used that as a tool to hammer them in. It's a pressed fit. No need to glue them in.
Install some orings and reinstall the pump. When running the hoses I suggest hose clamping the hose to the brass hose barb and to the one-way valve because if they came off your boat would take on water. Zip tie the hose elbows (yellow part) up as high as possible. These elbows have a small hole in them. This is to allow some air in as a "siphon break" so that water can not Siphon back into the boat. Make sure this hole isn't clogged. I suggest buying the bailer screen hose set from a year that used the one way valves (the grey plastic part). This is a second layer of protection to make sure water will never flow backwards into the boat. Blow through them to make sure they aren't clogged, and blow the other way to make sure the one way valve is working.
The bailer screens are attached with a metal bracket. I didn't want to buy these so I just zip tied the screens in place. I put one under the back of the motor by the shaft which is where I notice water accumulate as the lowest spot at slow speeds. I put the second one farther back where the water accumulates when the bow is pitched up.
See pictures. Lmk if you have any questions.
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