2006 4-Tec Sportster After Winter Blues

[sawtooth111]

Just started boat up for the first time this season. Ran great last summer. No winterizing, garage above freezing. Engine started right up and idles fine. But in the water it right away lacked power, starts moving but then seems like the propulsion is stalling. I removed and checked the pump, no obstruction, blades good turning fine. So...I need a checklist for troubleshooting the engine and jet. What should I start with? I understand that some of the propulsion water is used for cooling and that freezing may occur in that area. What are signs of freezing? Any assistance would be as usual...greatly appreciated. Michael

 

[gb387]

Have you replaced the spark plugs recently? If not it's a cheap place to start, Sea Doos thrive on fresh plugs.

 

[sawtooth111]

Have you replaced the spark plugs recently? If not it's a cheap place to start, Sea Doos thrive on fresh plugs.

Well...First plug was tight. I used PB out a bit then back in, back and forth, unfortunately the hole had some bad threads which flattened the bottom 3-4 plug threads. I ordered a 12mm back-tap tool. Second plug came out easy. Third one...also tight. I am leaving the PB in overnight. Whoever put them in...you know the rest. Gaps are off.

I didn't mention that before starting the battery was flat so I charged it enough to start it. Could the computer read this as a charging fault and put it in limp-home-mode?

 

[gb387]

I have had a weak battery throw all kinds of codes, the 4tecs seem to be very sensitive to a weak battery in my experience. The spark plugs concern me, especially by your description.... It's a must to change them every season who knows what the previous owner did!!!

 

[OG1]

and use anti seize on the plug threads. Man your post makes me cringe just reading it.

 

[pvamax]

Check airbox and intake tube for mice nest. The 05-06 have a nice open airbox for them to enter. Found one in my 05 one year during spring de-winterization, unfortunately after first startup...

 

[JPass]

and use anti seize on the plug threads. Man your post makes me cringe just reading it.

I use anti-seize as well, but it's a double edged sword in that you can't torque them properly due to the antiseize. It makes things too "slick" and throws off the torque specs by up to 20%. Others have stated that it can mess with the grounding of the plug and it's ability to dissipate heat. Plenty of threads online about it with varying opinions.

Apply very little if you decide to use it. Some manufacturers state not to use any at all and others make a very specific type of anti-seize for their plugs. I believe those are graphite based.

 

[sawtooth111]

Final report on this...repair: got the 3rd one out, even harder than the first. I manage to back-tap a couple of rounds but it was difficult to make the tool work well given the depth of the plug hole from the top of the case. I ended up going back over with a traditional tap, just a little at a time. I used grease to capture as much filings as possible. Followed by a rag, air, vaccumn and...hope. i saw blogs about anti-sieze, that new shiny ngks have a coating. But also noted that if you are reusing them that it is then ok to use a little dab. I had been using the new plugs for thread testing so I went ahead and put a dab just a bit up from the bottom threads and just tightened to compress the washer...a smidge. I will replace them frequently.

I checked the air baffle box...no mice...yet

I forgot to mention that the old plugs had no discoloration, pitting, etc. But the gaps were off and one was smooshed down with almost no gap.

In short, between the plugs and charging up the battery.... It now starts and runs....very great.!!

Thanks for listening-reading and support, Michael