2005 Sportster 150 215HP - What to look out for when buying used?

[Jasone510]

First time poster looking at picking up a used 2005 Sportser 150 supercharged. Found one on craigslist with 93 hours and from the pictures it looks to be in really good condition. I'm planning to meet the seller for a test drive, but wanted to know if there are specific problems to look out for. The supercharger was rebuilt and does have the steel washers now (reciepts and documentation are on hand). Anything else I should look for? Also, asking price is $10,250, what's the going rate? Looked up the NADA values and Low = $8120 Avg = $9190, that sound about right?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[Coastiejoe]

Ask for paperwork for the SC. Generally speaking, no paperwork you have to assume it didn't happen.

I STRONGLY suggest doing a compression test

And when you test drive it you need a minimum of 30 minutes. Really should be a hour. If there is a problem it would likely present itself somewhere after the 30 minute mark. Just seems to be that way.

Do slow and gradual acceleration as well as hole shots. Hole shots should NOT have high revs with slow speeds. If so, you have either wear ring, impeller and it shaft seal issues.

 

[Jasone510]

Thanks for the reply. I looked for the compression numbers online, but couldn't find them. What range should it be in?

Ask for paperwork for the SC. Generally speaking, no paperwork you have to assume it didn't happen.

I STRONGLY suggest doing a compression test

And when you test drive it you need a minimum of 30 minutes. Really should be a hour. If there is a problem it would likely present itself somewhere after the 30 minute mark. Just seems to be that way.

Do slow and gradual acceleration as well as hole shots. Hole shots should NOT have high revs with slow speeds. If so, you have either wear ring, impeller and it shaft seal issues.

 

[ken0276]

Have not tested my Seadoo speedster 150 yet but I believe it should be very close to the Yamaha used engine for around 180 to 190 psi.

 

[Jasone510]

Thanks! I just picked up a compression tester and will be taking a test drive next week, wish me luck.

 

[ken0276]

If possible, buy a fresh water boat is the first choice. I loved my seadoo speedster 150 so much, it's nice boat for playing around and fishing, bet you will like it, good luck.

 

[pvamax]

r

Have not tested my Seadoo speedster 150 yet but I believe it should be very close to the Yamaha used engine for around 180 to 190 psi.

215 motor should be between 120-150 psi.Important thing is that all 3 are within 10% of eachother. Also, fogging oil will give readings on the high end and warm motors may drop readings a tad.

 

[Jasone510]

Thanks pvamax. Does anyone have a step by step procedure on how to perform the test? I've been seeing conflicting info on warm vs cold, pulling fuel pump fuse vs not, pulling all plugs or leaving two in...

215 motor should be between 120-150 psi.Important thing is that all 3 are within 10% of eachother. Also, fogging oil will give readings on the high end and warm motors may drop readings a tad.

 

[Coastiejoe]

All spark plugs removed, cold engine, spark plug wires grounded, full throttle.

 

[Jasone510]

All spark plugs removed, cold engine, spark plug wires grounded, full throttle.

Thanks Coastiejoe. With regards to spark plug wires grounded, how/where do I ground the wires? So the step by step would look something like this:

1. Remove all spark plug wires
2. Ground spark plug wires
3. Remove all spark plugs
4. Install compression tester fitting into cylinder 1
5. WOT
6. Hit Start button w/key in ignition
7. Take note of readings
8. Repeat steps 4-7 for remaining two cylinders

I'm assuming I should do this twice for each cylinder to ensure consistency, correct?

Sorry for all the rookie questions I'm new to boats. I appreciate all the feedback!

 

[Coastiejoe]

Thanks Coastiejoe. With regards to spark plug wires grounded, how/where do I ground the wires? So the step by step would look something like this:

1. Remove all spark plug wires
2. Ground spark plug wires
3. Remove all spark plugs
4. Install compression tester fitting into cylinder 1
5. WOT
6. Hit Start button w/key in ignition
7. Take note of readings
8. Repeat steps 4-7 for remaining two cylinders

I'm assuming I should do this twice for each cylinder to ensure consistency, correct?

Sorry for all the rookie questions I'm new to boats. I appreciate all the feedback!

Correct on all steps....

Most skis have grounding posts on the electrical box, if not, then they need to be grounded via the metal engine block somehow.
I will look for a picture to show what I mean...

 

[Jasone510]

You are awesome Coastiejoe along with everyone else that has responded! I need to send you a six pack :cheers:

Correct on all steps....

Most skis have grounding posts on the electrical box, if not, then they need to be grounded via the metal engine block somehow.
I will look for a picture to show what I mean...

 

[Coastiejoe]

This is NOT your boat but it should fine an idea of what you are looking for.

 

[pwgsx]

ummmm there is no grounding post on a 4tech that I know of. Remove the plug coil packs first by pushing on the connector clips and then pull each one straight up. Some may need a little wiggle but they do come off. Next remove all the plugs. You will have to keep the throttle at the idle position and the lever in neutral. Fully turn the throttle plate on the engine till it stops, hold it fully open ( drown mode is now active) and have a helper push the start button for a sec or 2 till the needle stops moving on the gauge. Repeat for other 2 holes. Drown mode will kill the spark and injectors, only the starter will turn

 

[Coastiejoe]

ummmm there is no grounding post on a 4tech that I know of. Remove the plug coil packs first by pushing on the connector clips and then pull each one straight up. Some may need a little wiggle but they do come off. Next remove all the plugs. You will have to keep the throttle at the idle position and the lever in neutral. Fully turn the throttle plate on the engine till it stops, hold it fully open ( drown mode is now active) and have a helper push the start button for a sec or 2 till the needle stops moving on the gauge. Repeat for other 2 holes. Drown mode will kill the spark and injectors, only the starter will turn

I wasn't sure. Which is why I suggested grounding to metal.

But unplugging the coils is safe and easy.

 

[Jasone510]

Got it. Thanks pwgsx and Coastiejoe. Looking forward to perusing the boards, seems to be a wealth of information :thumbsup: Hopefully I can join the ranks as an owner soon!

 

[ken0276]

You may have a good seller to let you test the boat's cylinders compression, but not here, when I purchased my ski and boat, they both said no machenic can touch their engines but you can drive and test the boat in the water for no problems. Lol

 

[pwgsx]

Yea kinda the same with mine but I was told I could BUT it was 105 outside and there was no way I was crawling around trying to do a compression test. I lucked out but I got engine codes that I am still sorting through.

 

[Jasone510]

You may have a good seller to let you test the boat's cylinders compression, but not here, when I purchased my ski and boat, they both said no machenic can touch their engines but you can drive and test the boat in the water for no problems. Lol

That sucks! All I know is if I'm dropping this kind of coin, I need to do my due diligence to ensure I'm not buying someone else's problem. If he says no when we meet then I'm walking away...

 

[ken0276]

No issues here, been dealing and rebuilding the small two stroke marine engines for a long time, a test drive could almost tell how good or bad those engines are.

 

[Jasone510]

So after more research on '05 Sportster SCIC's I am beginning to think that it may not be such a good idea to go with this early model year. The sodium filled exhaust valves have me a bit worried. Having to do engine work right off the bat (assuming the original sodium filled valves haven't been replaced) does not give me the warm and fuzzies. What's the cost of the parts and labor for valve replacement?

 

[ken0276]

If you want a trouble less speedster 150, buy a 07 or later model not the trouble maker turbo one, the 155 hp engine have lots of the good feedback for the performance and reliable.

 

[Jasone510]

If you want a trouble less speedster 150, buy a 07 or later model not the trouble maker turbo one, the 155 hp engine have lots of the good feedback for the performance and reliable.

I think an 07 or later might be the call. I still want the supercharged version, the maintenance on the supercharger doesn't bother me. Its the fact that the valves need to be changed due to a design flaw. Pulling a supercharger is no problem, but pulling the head and replacing the valves would make me a tad nervous.