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2005 Seadoo Challenger Long Beep and overheat after 3500 RPM

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I was working on my seadoo today i detached the J pipe and stuck a needle through the 3 holes and assured they were open, but i noticed a hose that goes from the oil and air seperator and ends at the air intake silencer was pretty stiff, is that normal? Although the boat was off
 
I was working on my seadoo today i detached the J pipe and stuck a needle through the 3 holes and assured they were open, but i noticed a hose that goes from the oil and air seperator and ends at the air intake silencer was pretty stiff, is that normal? Although the boat was off

Yea, that hose is of little importance. Even if it leaks, it'll only leak blow-by from your cylinders into your engine bay. Basically, that pipe is an exhaust gas recirculation pipe. My 185hp engine produces a crazy amount of blow by, so much so that if you restrict this pipe down to 1/4", it will cause a huge pressure buildup inside the crank case and spew oil out of your valve cover gasket. That pipe needs to just be unclogged and connected to the intake to burn the uncombusted fuel and oil vapors that go through it. It's not a very critical piece, but if it breaks, it could make an oily mess.

Your concern should be finding out why you're getting an overheat condition. Find out what's getting hot, and how hot. Harbor Freight sells thermo lasers for like $15. I'd suggest getting one and shining it at the head, near your intake ports, and at the main water box. Neither of these should exceed 195F. 205F was the most I've ever clocked my engine at, but I was performing the Boil-Out procedure because I got some water contamination into my oil. (Long Story). Water boils at 220F, so if you ever splash water on your motor and it sizzles, you're way over 220, and WAY over what you should be. At that point stop the motor immediately.
 
sounds like either high engine temp or high exhaust temp. the exhaust temp sensor (egts) has been a known problem.
early boat don't have error reading on their display so you need either a dealer to read the faults or buy a candoo system approx $400, good investment.

ps

NOTE: In case of overheating, EGTS and CTS do
not generate fault codes. The beeper will be activated
and the EMS will be set in limp home mode

you actually need to know the fault, before spending money chasing possible causes and spending unnecessary $$.
go see a dealer or get a candoo, you should be able see occurred faults and any active faults
 
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