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2005 Seadoo Challenger Long Beep and overheat after 3500 RPM

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bigandtall1988

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Hi guys, im new here, and it seems that there is a lot of knowledge around, so i would be greatful to use some.

i Have a 2005 Seadoo Challenger 180Sc SuperCharged, i took it out to the lake 2 days ago, this use to be a salt water boat, however after pushing it past 3500 rpm or over 20mph it will give me a long beeeeeeeep then shut itself down and the Temperature light comes on, i noticed that the hose coming from the coolant reservoir is very stiff. but as long as you stay under 3500 rpm it runs fine Please Help.

Thank you
 
Have you checked your coolant level and thermostat? Have you checked any cooling lines coming from the pump to the exhaust? Do you have an infrared thermometer that you can check engine and exhaust temps with?
 
A common failure is the temperature sensor. I believe there are two of them. Seadoo has an updated part number. I would replace them both. If they THINK they are bad, you will get the alarm and then go into limp mode at the very least...
 
sounds like either high engine temp or high exhaust temp. the exhaust temp sensor (egts) has been a known problem.
early boat don't have error reading on their display so you need either a dealer to read the faults or buy a candoo system approx $400, good investment.

ps

NOTE: In case of overheating, EGTS and CTS do
not generate fault codes. The beeper will be activated
and the EMS will be set in limp home mode
 
My coolant level is fine, i will check the temp. sensors once i get home, but how do i know if they are working or not, or do i just replace them. i read somewhere that it could be an exhaust clog, and something about 3 holes in the exhaust, could that be something. and can you elaborate on how to check this clog and the holes
 
My coolant level is fine, i will check the temp. sensors once i get home, but how do i know if they are working or not, or do i just replace them. i read somewhere that it could be an exhaust clog, and something about 3 holes in the exhaust, could that be something. and can you elaborate on how to check this clog and the holes

I would simply replace them as Seadoo has an updated part.. They are know to simply fail. I believe it is the exhaust Temp Sensors, but Seadoo or others here can confirm..
 
If your water box is exposed, you can splash some water on it when it's "overheating" and see if it boils away. If so, it probably IS overheating, as nothing in this system should get much above 205F. Running flat out, my 185hp cylinder heads stay at 190F despite working to their MAX. That is typically the hottest part of this system if everything is working correctly. I'm 90% sure the water box doesn't even get this high. Every time I shine the laser thermometer at it, it reads below what the head temps are.
 
Your J-Pipe has three tiny holes, on the end. They feed outside water around the pipe, like veins. If they are clogged, it can overheat the exhaust. My boat was doing the same thing, last year, but NOT going into limp mode. My J-pipes, were not clogged, it was my temp sensor on the engine. If your exhaust is overheating, and you continue to use it, you can start melting things... As stated above, replacing both sensors is an easy way to start. The only way to truly know is to purchase CANDOO software and connect to your ecu to check for stored errors. You can also call your local shop and ask if they can connect their BUDS computer to your rig and check the error code. I have a good relationship, with my guy. I brought it down, he connected his computer, found the code was the temp sensor, and replaced it on the spot...
 
I had the same problem last summer and it was the temperature sensor under the exhaust manifold. Brett of 'Jet Trendz' on RT 19, New Port Richey, FL diagnosed and installed the SeaDoo upgraded temp sensor. Problem eliminated.

Update: sorry it was the oil pressure sensor that failed and not the water temp sensor.
 
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Maybe I'm wrong here, but wouldn't it be better to buy a $25 infrared thermometer to check temps of exhaust and cylinder heads at the sensor points prior to buying $100+ worth of temperature sensors that may not be bad? IR Thermos come in handy more than you think. A great tool to have in your toolbox.
 
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I believe they can be tested too. I know on some of my past cars, these were variable resistors that changed with temperature. Anyone know if that's the case here?
 
Hi guys, im new here, and it seems that there is a lot of knowledge around, so i would be greatful to use some.

i Have a 2005 Seadoo Challenger 180Sc SuperCharged, i took it out to the lake 2 days ago, this use to be a salt water boat, however after pushing it past 3500 rpm or over 20mph it will give me a long beeeeeeeep then shut itself down and the Temperature light comes on, i noticed that the hose coming from the coolant reservoir is very stiff. but as long as you stay under 3500 rpm it runs fine Please Help.

Thank you

Update: My post from last year; Took my SeaDoo out today and when I entered the channel and opened up the throttle the alarm went off and oil light came on. Shut off engine and checked oil and coolant. All good. Started engine and same thing happened when I increased throttle. Came back in at idle. Engine purring like a kitten when in idle. Took boat to my mechanic and he put it on the Seadoo computer and it showed no era codes. Only guessing that it could be the oil sending unit. Any ideas out there.

Sorry, so it was NOT the temp sensor but the oil sensor. Both sensors going bad give similar results. Bad oil sensor = long alarm and oil light on. Bad temp sensor = long alarm and temp light on. I just love those idiot lights. Yeah right. sarc on
 
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Update: My post from last year; Took my SeaDoo out today and when I entered the channel and opened up the throttle the alarm went off and oil light came on. Shut off engine and checked oil and coolant. All good. Started engine and same thing happened when I increased throttle. Came back in at idle. Engine purring like a kitten when in idle. Took boat to my mechanic and he put it on the Seadoo computer and it showed no era codes. Only guessing that it could be the oil sending unit. Any ideas out there.

Sorry, so it was NOT the temp sensor but the oil sensor. Both sensors going bad give similar results. Bad oil sensor = long alarm and oil light on. Bad temp sensor = long alarm and temp light on. I just love those idiot lights. Yeah right. sarc on

bigandtall1988 has quoted temp light on
 
I check the resistance in both coolant and exhaust tempreture sensors and the resisitance was no where near what the chart says. There for i bought 2 new sensors and hopefull that will take care of it.
 
They all go bad it seems. So much so I am a bit shocked Seadoo has not had to replace them for free at this point.
 
Just took the boat out today while changed the sensors and its still doing the same thing. I felt the hoses and they all seem to be soft, ilarent they supposed to be firm which means coolant is being circulated?
 
At this point you need to figure out what's getting hot. The exhaust or the motor. A cheap IR thermo could help you track down temps of all cooling lines.

If the IR thermo shows a hot exhaust, you can try disconnecting each exhaust coolant line and blow them out with a compressor to make sure nothing is clogged.

If it's the motor that's triggering the overheat, you should confirm the water pump is working properly. You can always route the intake and output lines from the pump into a bucket of water to confirm that you have circulation.

Is the coolant in the reservoir boiling or anything?

Let us know what you find.
 
Sprinkling water on the hot parts to watch it sizzle could be a first indicator. I'd take off the jpipe and inspect the three little weep holes at the end of the water jacket. It's easy and free
 
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