2004 SugarSand Merc 210 M2 Sportjet Cuts out

[Sugarsand]

2004 SugarSand Merc 210 Sportjet Cuts out

Port side cylinders cut out under load. I have replaced the following with new components: Plugs, Wires, Stator, Trigger, Coils, Switch Boxes, and Regulator. Wire harness looks very good. Verified with a timing light the the port side cylinders cut out, if I throttle it back the port side cylinders come back on under light load. Throttle up and the port side cylinders cut back out. I have also checked the flywheel and all the magnets are in place and clean. Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

[Dr Honda]

Let me go double check the diagram... but if it's all one bank (port/starboard) it's one of the switch boxes.


Basically... at 2500 RPM... the switch box switches what charge coils it uses from the stator to charge the ignition coils. I don't think that the stator is a "Port/Starboard" setup. (but let me check) So that's ruled out. They fire at low RPM so that rules out the trigger unit, and ignition coils too.

 

[Dr Honda]

ok.... the stator is separated out for a high and low... but it's also per bank. So... it's either the stator or switch box.


The stator is easy to check. For the "Port" side... 3500~4200 ohms between the red/wt and blue/wt wires. And 90~140 ohms between the red/wt, and black. if it's out of range... it's shorted, or burnt.


If that checks... then it's the port side switch box.

 

[Sugarsand]

I totally agree, but the weird thing is that I had the problem and replaced everything. What are the chances of getting new bad components and having the same issue with no change?

ok.... the stator is separated out for a high and low... but it's also per bank. So... it's either the stator or switch box.


The stator is easy to check. For the "Port" side... 3500~4200 ohms between the red/wt and blue/wt wires. And 90~140 ohms between the red/wt, and black. if it's out of range... it's shorted, or burnt.


If that checks... then it's the port side switch box.

 

[Dr Honda]

Did you buy OEM or aftermarket??? If they are aftermarket... there's a good chance of the parts being bad. OR... something could have been damaged during the install.

But don't guess, or assume... get a meter out, and check the wires and the stator.

 

[Sugarsand]

I did purchase after market from CDI electronics, solid reviews and long warranty on the components. I will be double checking as you suggests and see what's going on and report back!

Did you buy OEM or aftermarket??? If they are aftermarket... there's a good chance of the parts being bad. OR... something could have been damaged during the install.

But don't guess, or assume... get a meter out, and check the wires and the stator.

 

[Sugarsand]

Ok,
The stator checks out per CDI instruction sheet. I have been searching for a how to thread to test the port side switch box? Can you point me in the right direction?

 

[Dr Honda]

Not sure you can check that... but let me dig into it.



****EDIT*****


Yep... by the manual... you basically check everything else... and if that all checks... it's a bad switch box.


FYI... this summer, guys have been talking about changing both boxes so they are balanced. If you don't... the old one could damage the new one. We haven't had issues with that in the past... but it's popped up twice now. I think if the box that seems ok, is leaking back... it can take out the replacement.

 

[Sugarsand]

I was aware that the switch boxes need to be replaced together. I replaced both after I replaced everything else. I also checked the kill circuit for voltage with key on/ key off with no reading. I have also re- checked the stator and it passes the ohm test, however I do not have a DVA on hand to check peak. I may go buy one this week. I did find that I had a couple of loose magnets on my flywheel. I epoxied them back in place and took the boat out with no change.

Since I have aftermarket switch boxes, there is a bias circuit test on the sheet that came with them. They should read 15000 ohms and mine both read right at 14000 ... So I assume the bias circuit is good on both since it's pretty close.

Not sure you can check that... but let me dig into it.



****EDIT*****


Yep... by the manual... you basically check everything else... and if that all checks... it's a bad switch box.


FYI... this summer, guys have been talking about changing both boxes so they are balanced. If you don't... the old one could damage the new one. We haven't had issues with that in the past... but it's popped up twice now. I think if the box that seems ok, is leaking back... it can take out the replacement.

 

[Dr Honda]

OK... the kill wire won't have voltage on it. (not much) that wire gets grounded to shut down the engine. SO... check the wire going out, that it is "Open" when the key and lanyard are on... and "Closed" when the key and/or lanyard is off.


One other thing.....

You can swap the switch boxes. If the other bank of plugs is now dead... it's the switch box. If it's the same bank... then it's in the wiring.